TCL 50S535 bad tcon or panel issue?

[x_orange90_x]

BUl**SHIT what over written to stop and no HOPE.. did yours ass was part from Panel or TV production?

OP. TCON just timing , Panel are slave to T-CON., data when it come correct from MB then T-CON timing them to its slave. as soon Panel display correct image no way its fault. MB always the keys of Data.

BGA connection issue?

[Diah]

BGA connection issue?

could be.. but at this issue need to monitor Signal within Oscilloscope. this will bring us direct to fault.

[x_orange90_x]

could be.. but at this issue need to monitor Signal within Oscilloscope. this will bring us direct to fault.

Hmm. I don't own one of those unfortunately. Any other way to narrow it down?

[Diah]

Hmm. I don't own one of those unfortunately. Any other way to narrow it down?

investment by MB with refund

[x_orange90_x]

investment by MB with refund

I found a board in my collection from a 4 series, 421 I believe, that has all of the same connectors except for the power button. If it hooks up right, is there a way to turn it on without the button? Is it safe to even try this board? I'll post pictures of it later.

[EazyBone]

Before you try a new main board with different set go into the service menu on the original TV check what the panel code is because you would likely have to change the panel code or else you're going to get a jumbled screen. Google how to go to the service menu and then find where it shows the panel code should be a number between 0 and 100 roughly so if you do try a different board that fits you will probably have to change the panel code

[x_orange90_x]

Before you try a new main board with different set go into the service menu on the original TV check what the panel code is because you would likely have to change the panel code or else you're going to get a jumbled screen. Google how to go to the service menu and then find where it shows the panel code should be a number between 0 and 100 roughly so if you do try a different board that fits you will probably have to change the panel code

It's just a loose board in my drawer. No idea what TV I pulled it from as it's long gone. I simply want to see if the band appears. If the screen is jumbled I guess that wouldn't really help me would it 🤔 nonetheless I'll post pictures of it shortly when I get home

[EazyBone]

He likes to push your buttons because you react. And when he gets his buttons pushed he cries too. Pretty sure just best to ignore.

You can easily look up a boards model number plug it into shopjimmy or eBay and it'll tell you.

And if it's for TCL and screen is jumbled ... After you set to correct panel it goes normal so I don't know what you mean by that. I'm not even saying this is going to do anything.

[lotas]

So what's your diagonal? The thread says it's a TCL 50S535, but the motherboard tag says 55S535.

[x_orange90_x]

So what's your diagonal? The thread says it's a TCL 50S535, but the motherboard tag says 55S535.

😆 I just realized a couple nights ago when I was standing it up that it was 55", and then the Roku app said 55 and I'm like oh ya lol. Props to you for catching that

[x_orange90_x]

He likes to push your buttons because you react. And when he gets his buttons pushed he cries too. Pretty sure just best to ignore.

You can easily look up a boards model number plug it into shopjimmy or eBay and it'll tell you.

And if it's for TCL and screen is jumbled ... After you set to correct panel it goes normal so I don't know what you mean by that. I'm not even saying this is going to do anything.

Attached are the two boards, the original and the one I mentioned. It looks like it has all the same connectors except for the power button. It's from a 50S421.

I just want to see if the vertical band appears, but if the screen won't display right because of the size difference, I probably won't notice, right?

Edit: nevermind that, I see it's missing another connector for the LED inverter.

[EazyBone]

No those won't work, they generally look identical. You have the newer model. Oh well

[Diah]

Edit: nevermind that, I see it's missing another connector for the LED inverter.

you can try disconnect the LVDS from MB side. and feed the T-CON 12V an point VCC after F201. see if the T-CON will start at test mode... as it had TEST points label printed on it

[Davi.p]

For what importance it has now i remember years ago i bought a big tv from LG, the defect was the same and it was installed right under an air conditioner, that the owner said it dripped sone condenser water on the tv, after many tests on the panel boards, i found the target, wiith a magnifier lens i found a single burnt trace on a cof tab, the one with the correspondence to the issue on all its working area.. and that's it..

[x_orange90_x]

For what importance it has now i remember years ago i bought a big tv from LG, the defect was the same and it was installed right under an air conditioner, that the owner said it dripped sone condenser water on the tv, after many tests on the panel boards, i found the target, wiith a magnifier lens i found a single burnt trace on a cof tab, the one with the correspondence to the issue on all its working area.. and that's it..

You sir led me to double check the area closely.. And I found the issue! Question is, can I replace then? Does the value matter significantly, or can I replace them with ones of similar physical size?

Edit: so I tried cleaning them with alcohol and they all cleaned up nicely. No physical damage that can be seen. I even checked for ground shorts on them and they all tested good. However, I still have the band 😔 what's really strange though is that if you look at the attached pictures, you cannot see it at all except for on the lightest shades of color. Like literally, it does not appear on any of the darker areas. But if the whole screen is white or another really light color you'll see it from top to bottom. If one of these caps were bad, wouldn't it be permanently visable on ALL colors?

[nomoresonys]

Yep, pop some same sized ones in there.

[Davi.p]

Please, if you use a smart phone to make photos, i suggest you to install a separate app to make trimmed photos for email / web exchange with a maximum of around 2k x 2k px, like i suggest in my sticky post, in Android i.use "Camera flash" from expertisenetcoms that has also a particular "light booster" (more bright on low light), good for boards, besides this i need a larger area pictured of the board so i can understand the purpose of those caps, i suggest you to replace them all the oxydated ones, generally you get them on spare cracked lcd boards (i store a lot of them) the same size /.same color hue ones, color has relevance for capacity, the darker the more capable, the newer the more cap/size ratio..

PS: check them for capacity in circuit, compare between them, they must match each other, the cof tab must be checked on the green side, by flipping the board..

[lotas]

Take a toothbrush, wet it with isopropyl alcohol and clean these capacitors from oxide, dry and check whether the strip has disappeared or not.

[x_orange90_x]

Take a toothbrush, wet it with isopropyl alcohol and clean these capacitors from oxide, dry and check whether the strip has disappeared or not.

I tried. They cleaned up nicely too.. Didn't look blown, burnt, or anything like that. The band was still present tho. I checked them for ground shorts and they all tested good.

[nomoresonys]

I see, it sounded like you meant they tested bad.