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Well that data would of been nice
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Also NVM on the pic, I zoomed in and I don't see any of the diodes
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I'm pretty sure the soldering thing works only if there is 2 ribbon cables going to the buffer boards.. so you might want to undo that.
Can you show pics of the buffer boards close up? Sometimes there is specific things that can be removed....
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This is exactly what you thought. The LEDs are bad. Sometimes LEDs will turn on for a few minutes and then go out then on and off etc, many phenomenon occur. You can test them and they are fine out back together and bad. Take apart and test bad. This is clearly a light issue though.
JJust change em out and I'm sure you'll be fine.
You can check connectors etc to see if loose but I've never been lucky like that
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Following this! I have a few of these all in one boards and can't figure them out and haven't posted yet..
But I also got weird octocouplers voltages. Mine would go up and down fluctuating for no reason.
A known defect (not any of mine yet) are those 2 blue caps you have in red and that mosfet. They aren't bad on mine but supposedly they go bad so check for shorts in sure you already did.
[USER="75051"]Diah[/USER] this is the board I didn't post about, help this guy out 😁😁😁
I got no other input except listening nowDiah
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You must be bored 😯😯
No not the same thing.
You can clearly see broken glass on the screen corners. I've had this before though.. every tv with broken glass acts different. I've seen many videos of a kid thrown item at screen and it just turns black and never shows lines or anything else....Last edited by EazyBone; 02-05-2025, 10:53 PM.
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Yup I don't know it. I haven't learned everything.. that's why I come here. I don't make many posts anymore as I generally fix the problems now.. so still need to learn.
I've tried your method and looked on the web to get into the Android recovery and it won't go there. It just does nothing at all.
I plug in holding those, white light turns on. Stays solid, does nothing. Similar when I try update from USB, holding power and plugging in the light just stays solid, and I can't even turn the TV on after attempting this either
A side note. When the TV is plugged...
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I've tried SD card and it didn't work b4.. can't hurt to try though. And I've updated a 900h and had green and amber so not sure what you mean, I've updated later ones also and have had that too. Maybe I'm mistaken but pretty sure.
I feel like it's still the panel anyway, I've run into it b4 but sometimes your in too deep...
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What is this? Like service menu? If you can tell me how to access, but I'll look how to
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I've done this before accidentally... Tossed it. Gave the new lights to the trash because it pissed me off lol.
I use a glue to put the screen back on. B7000 maybe? It's used for cellphones so it can be removed later and cleaned up unlike super glue. Pain in the ass to get out though and needs a good day to dry. Never failed me so far....
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Yes I have a USB tester that shows voltage. You are correct only after startup does voltage show up and both usb show 5.24v.
No change WiFi remove
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Hisense 75h8f shutting off
This TV turns on you see the Android logo it loads goes to home screen will stay on the home screen for about 30 seconds to a minute roughly and then clicks the relay on the PSU and shuts off.
It's a q LED and I've tested the LEDs to the best of my ability using the ribbons and an LED tester and they are all 22 volts on all three channels of the ribbon. I do know LEDs failing and cause this issue. I don't think it's this but maybe.
Have disconnected 3/4 on both sides of the ribbon and one half on each side of the ribbon and the entire panel itself. And it does the same...5 Photos
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Ask a neighbor or friend or something. They need this usb size... Hard to say it's not this without properly trying IMO.
When you try it does it blink amber or green or do anything?
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I didn't ask to confirm the power board is working. This is too test screen.
You need to disconnect the connector from the PSU to the main board at the main board. Then you need to disconnect the LVDS cable from the t-con side to the motherboard no cable should be connected to the t-con except for the PSU. Then you need to jumper the PS- on the standby the t-con on and the BL-on. In doing so you should have a screen pattern show up on the screen with red green and blue images. Let us know what happens.
Also to update the TV you may have the correct instructions but if...Last edited by EazyBone; 02-01-2025, 11:54 PM.
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Yes screens can go out and show backlight glow.
Test the screen.. first take a pick of the PSU legend clip that goes to main board and the one that goes to TCON to verify and then we can give you directions...
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I knew I recalled something like that, I was unsure to say something. Pics of buffer boards!
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Make sure you test right side also (just to make sure I'm sure you did)
Basically you can compare caps from each side of buffer boards, check them using beep beep mode and maybe you will get lucky. If you can't find a short.. well probably internal issue.
Don't forget to unsolder that bridge you made.
And yes in the end, your screen is dead correct.. small chance something else tho! I've never been lucky on it.
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