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I tested the continuity on the fuse on each board, both read 00.3.Comment
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If everything is checking out OK with the power board, then the problem is with the LEDs ?Comment
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Wait for the tester. Those voltages are only for the main board. There is a different section for the PSU to LEDs. BUT now you can get a full refund and your shipping back for that bad PSU. And likely the PSU wasn't the problem in the first place. But we will wait for tester and it will help. But if you did the test lotas did.. then we looking likely at the LEDs. Will be confirmed soon!
Glad you took out old PSU.. helps to knowComment
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Today is the day.
I found a teardown video for this TV too :
https://youtu.be/Jma0R8L8Osc?si=m6vJD7RWvXNW0VCWComment
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The LED tester gets delivered today.
What size suction cups should I use for the 60 in panel ?Comment
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If it isn't the LEDs, what else could it be ?Comment
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Did you test them? I use the double suctions from harbor freight. They like $8 each. Can't go wrong with the bigger the betterAttached FilesComment
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One for each hand. Use them up to 86 inch TVs.
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Here are the LED strip test results, LED connecter connected to the replacement Power Board, and TV plugged into the wall...
VLED1 1+ and 1- : 96.4
VLED1 2+ and 2- : 96.4
VLED2 1+ and 1- : 129
VLED2 2+ and 2- : 93.2
The 129 didn't light up, but the LED strips from the other test points did light up.Comment
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I said on a earlier post. Test them not connected to the PSU.. it's bad for the PSU. Do the test again on the clip only not connected. BUT it's likely you'd get the same results.
Vled 2 93.2 has one led out likely..
Vled 129 probably has multiple.
Do the test again not connected but it's pretty solid indicator so farComment
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yep dont have lights plugged in or bad things can happen .dont ask .. be aware the testers say no electrical shock . they dont mention the shock you get when touching the probes . also found that out .Comment
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mine must be more shocking than yours . thought there would be burn marks on my hands when it happened . they are pretty crudely made .. mine works well . i also use it for selecting new led voltages against a good old one . sort of finished with tv repairs now because it isnt worth it unless its for myself or family . they have sadly become disposable . check out how fast new ones are being sold . https://www.worldometers.info/
Last edited by petehall347; 11-26-2024, 07:51 PM.Comment
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Do NOT plug in the LEDs to the power supply!
All you need to do is plug in the tester, power it on, and touch the red probe to + and black probe to - on a strip. The strip SHOULD light up. Any that don't light up will be dead and will usually trip the circuitry to turn them all off. Also, failing LEDs will usually light up blue in color.Attached FilesComment
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Correction. I had the LED connector connected to the power board, but the power board wasn't plugged into the AC cord that powers the TV from the wall outlet.
See in this picture how the AC cable and Main Board are disconnected from the PSU ?
Only the LED connector is connected to the PSU.
It just made it more easier to do the test then to pin things at the LED wired connector.
Like you said, I'd more than likely get the same results if I pin them at the wired connection. That wasn't any other power being sourced to the LED strips other than the LED tester.Comment
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Hi everyone,
I am trying to fix a samsung washinmachine power supply main board.
I already replaced it with another one to fix the machine but i want to try understand the issue with the old board.
Therefore i hope to be able to get some help to explain what to check in order to troubleshoot.
The power supply board reference is the following: DC41-00189a
I have followed one thread (https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...ingmachine-rel... -
I did not have any 27uf @ 50 volt capacitors but one nice thing is that it has enough room for two capacitors in parallel a 22uf and a 4.7uf @ 50 volts 22 plus 4.7 equals 26.7uf which so very close to 27uf I will show some pictures of it sometime tomorrow
This is one of the shit est boards I seen in a very long time and it was the daughter board the traces just lifting off the board I had to use the capacitor leads to repair the the traces and the main board is not any better because I had to repair several traces for the daughter board to the main board
After all of... -
Hi, this is my personal laptop, which the original board (lets call it Board A) blew up PU8700 (TPS51486), making a hole on the board, i had left the laptop at my desk one day with the battery fully charged and didn't touch it for a week, but when i tried to turn it on it didn't
Thought the battery was dead, so i plugged in the charger then tried to power on, the power LED blinked once, charged LED still orange, unplugged the charger, plugged in again and I noticed the "magic smoke" smell, so i unplugged the charger, removed the back cover and saw the blown IC (the "magic... -
Hey everyone,
This power supply board is hard to find but there are repair kits available. This board had a blown fuse, FP801S, blown PFC MOSFET, QP802CS and ceramic cap, CP809. I replaced them with parts I already had and tested the rest of the parts that would've come in the repair kit and they were fine. I powered the board up on the bench expecting, in typical Samsung power supply board fashion, to see all my output voltages but, nothing. 0 volts on CNL801, CNM801 and CNT801. The only thing I have is 170vdc on the filter caps. No standby voltage either.
Anybody... -
Hey everyone,hope everyone is fine, I got an issue hoping you guys can help me,
I got a HP V193 monitor it has a E59670 now i got a few of these, been using them for long time now, however this particular monitor was blacking out for a few times then after unplugging and plugging it back in it gets back to normal until now its dead.
I tried switching the power supply board with another similar monitor and it works,so I'm trying to fix this power supply board I got some basic in electronics as a hobbyist.
Steps taken so far:
Checked all...02-21-2023, 04:00 AM
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