Sony OLED XR-77A80J - 5 Flashes But Turn On After Hard Reset

[odie34]

Here are the voltages:

The fuses on the top left (F1, F3 and F5) all measure 21.6V on both sides.
FL2 and FL1 (below the fuses) both measure 2.24V on both sides.
R77 measures 12.7V on both sides.
R76 measures 0V on both sides.

I'm hoping that 0V at R76 tells us something...

[EazyBone]

Diah the OLED I had that was broken I was still able to get it to color cycle a bad picture and mine also had a emmc no?

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...-5-blink/page3

[Diah]

Here are the voltages:

The fuses on the top left (F1, F3 and F5) all measure 21.6V on both sides.
FL2 and FL1 (below the fuses) both measure 2.24V on both sides.
R77 measures 12.7V on both sides.
R76 measures 0V on both sides.

I'm hoping that 0V at R76 tells us something...

disconnect the screen ribbon close to R76 and test again

Diah the OLED I had that was broken I was still able to get it to color cycle a bad picture and mine also had a emmc no?

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...-5-blink/page3

yours are not in deep sleep

[odie34]

Still 0V with the ribbon cable near R76 disconnected. (I'm guessing that that's a good thing.) Do you want me to try it with the other ribbon cable disconnected?

[Diah]

Still 0V with the ribbon cable near R76 disconnected. (I'm guessing that that's a good thing.) Do you want me to try it with the other ribbon cable disconnected?

no need... just measure the R with beep ton and the diode D1 with diode mode,,, you can compare value of R76 with R77

if every things fine follow my post #20 if still same result replace t-con

[odie34]

Sorry... I'm not exactly sure what you're asking (or how to compare the value of R76 with R77). I unplugged the TV and measured resistance of R76 and R77. Both measured 0 ohms, I assume because of the circuit they're in. The diode measured 1.63 in one direction and .146 in the other direction. Does this answer the question?

[lotas]

R76 - if this jumper sits on the ground, then there will be no voltage on it.

[Diah]

Sorry... I'm not exactly sure what you're asking (or how to compare the value of R76 with R77). I unplugged the TV and measured resistance of R76 and R77. Both measured 0 ohms, I assume because of the circuit they're in. The diode measured 1.63 in one direction and .146 in the other direction. Does this answer the question?

every things are fine... do the freezing test to the eMMC as i wrote at post #20

lotas
R76 are the LOCK2 lune connect via the sandwich boards

[odie34]

That jumper doesn't appear to sit on ground, and even if it did, wouldn't we still expect to see non-zero voltage on the other side of R76? I measured resistance from the bottom of R76 to ground and it measured 3.7K. Then I reversed the polarity and it measured 8.2K. Interestingly, I got the same values when testing from the top of R76. As stated earlier, resistance is 0 across the resistor (in either polarity).

As you know, I'm no expert. But is it possible that the resistor is bad? (I'm not used to seeing bad resistors. I've seen lots of bad transistors, diodes and capacitors, but I can't remember seeing a bad resistor.) It would be nice to have proof of a bad TCON.. Is this it?

[odie34]

I don't have any freeze spray, so that test will need to wait unless you can suggest an alternative. And if the spray causes the TV to stay on longer, does that mean that the TCON needs to be replaced, or does it mean that the panel is drawing too much current (so it's a panel problem)?

[lotas]

lotas
R76 are the LOCK2 lune connect via the sandwich boards

What does LOCK2 lune connect have to do with it?

[Diah]

I don't have any freeze spray, so that test will need to wait unless you can suggest an alternative. And if the spray causes the TV to stay on longer, does that mean that the TCON needs to be replaced, or does it mean that the panel is drawing too much current (so it's a panel problem)?

electronic repair need patient... no alternative. right now... eMMC if it had bad sector and it could recovered with freezing ( this happen many time ) the cheapest way to repair.. other about the panel are not on my mind... up to you you can judge as you wish as well you scrap it if you like. LOL

[Diah]

What does LOCK2 lune connect have to do with it?

!!!

[odie34]

So are you saying that freezing the eMMC could be a permanent fix? And are you also saying that you don't think it's a bad panel?

[lotas]

!!!

Where does this confidence come from? You don’t know how control points are marked.

[Diah]

Where does this confidence come from? You don't know how control points are marked.

don't be rude and funny over here.. by playing corrector man.. if you have some things help the owner of the threat welcome.
no place to explain how are LOCK work .. it had IN and OUT for adjusting the currents....... you wrote GND and i said NO. and the ownet give you the measurement with GND.. so could you stop.--?


@odie34
try it first and then you will know if you have luck or not. or you don't want to spend 1$ on air Can...?

[lotas]

Check the supply voltage at the outputs of the DC/DC converters (some of which they are signed for, some of which they are not signed for), the power supply may be too low or unstable.

[EazyBone]

I don't have any freeze spray, so that test will need to wait unless you can suggest an alternative. And if the spray causes the TV to stay on longer, does that mean that the TCON needs to be replaced, or does it mean that the panel is drawing too much current (so it's a panel problem)?

Use can of air duster and turn it upside down. Do not shake it before doing this. This will freeze the chip. Pretty sure it's just a test to SEE if it's bad, it won't fix it. But maybe it does. I'm interested to see.

[odie34]

Diah I’m happy to get a can! I had assumed that the TV had a bad panel and that I wouldn’t be able to fix it. Now I’m hopeful and wanted to confirm that you think that the panel may be okay, and that the only problem may be the TCON. It’s an added bonus if the cold spray could actually fix it. (I thought it was just a diagnostic tool.) I’ll try to pick some up tomorrow.

[Diah]

Diah I'm happy to get a can! I had assumed that the TV had a bad panel and that I wouldn't be able to fix it. Now I'm hopeful and wanted to confirm that you think that the panel may be okay, and that the only problem may be the TCON. It's an added bonus if the cold spray could actually fix it. (I thought it was just a diagnostic tool.) I'll try to pick some up tomorrow.

from yours both photos of the screen..the panel module look fine to me... but in case as you wrote it could be pull or drop currents... you can use Car filament lamp ( Lamp for trucks with one Filament 24V) or ( one with 2 Filament 12V ) we connect the lamp direct on the EVVD line and chassis ... any drop or pull over currents the lamp will show us by remain on or turn off.
one things more from my side as last comment .. i marked for you the line of SOS signal. at the lower LVDS socket.. if we take it out from circuit and let the line which come from MB connect via 1KR to chassis the TV will remain ON. so you can see if the screen had bad cells.
good luck