Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

[tervel12]

Hello all,

First off, I am still a little new at troubleshooting televisions but have had a bit of success so far with monitors.

I have a Mitsubishi WS-52525 DLP tv that has a constant blinking green power light. So far I have pulled out the boards and noticed that many of the capacitors were bulging. I went through and tested all of the electrolytic caps with an ESR meter and most of them were testing bad. I have since replaced all of the capacitors on the power supply, DM, FMT, and Signal board.

I also tested all of the fuses on the various boards. They all check out fine. The three on the back of the DM board I actually desoldered to test as they share a common lead.

I have scoured the internet for this problem and it seems to be a common Mitsubishi problem with no solution other than replacing the caps or having Mitsubishi replace the board. Well the tv is about 8 years old so there is definitely no warranty. A friend of mine got it from his former roommate who left it behind when he moved out so no way to even get a proof of purchase to see if Mitsubishi would replace it.

I have attached a couple of pictures of the DM board. If anybody could offer some assistance, I would appreciate it.

Thank you,

tervel12

[tervel12]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

Here are the pictures of the DM Board.

[selldoor]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

The pictures are really not good enough for troubleshooting they should look like this
Examples of what is needed
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1290283049

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1280167246

Perhaps try outside for better light.

It would also be better to list the fuses/components you have tested so that we know for certain that none have been missed.

In the midddle picture there is a black blob on one of the inductors - is it just glue
can it be cleaned off?

[awyatt2]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

break two wires coming from dm to format, you need dpdt switch you want both off and both on at same time.black and orange are the colors, cut the switch off when you reset tv, and on after the light quits flashing. there are numerous smd electrolytics on the dm and they are all bad, not just a few. this is the only way to do it other than replace the dm board. if you interupt the cycle it will boot. i have had one fixed that way for two years. it is as llong as it lasted new. when you leave home flip the switch or unplug the set or it will continue to blinkn if you have a power fail;ure.

[mr.sky]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

The pictures are really not good enough for troubleshooting they should look like this
Examples of what is needed
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1290283049

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1280167246

Perhaps try outside for better light.

It would also be better to list the fuses/components you have tested so that we know for certain that none have been missed.

In the midddle picture there is a black blob on one of the inductors - is it just glue
can it be cleaned off?

Selldoor, your pics look like a Pro did it, can
you share as to what type of Camera that was used, and settings.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

Selldoor, your pics look like a Pro did it, can
you share as to what type of Camera that was used, and settings.

The backside pic is done by someone who lives in Daytona Beach and it was shot outside. I don't know the camera though.

The frontside pic is mine. It was done by placing the board on a window ledge on a nice sunny day. The camera is an old 6 or 7 year old Canon A80 with macro mode enabled in "program" mode. The shot is handheld (no tripod). The Canon A80 has probably taken over 40,000 shots and was a victim of the failing CCD, but Canon fixed it for free.

You can probably find a Canon A80 on ebay for $20.

[mr.sky]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

The backside pic is done by someone who lives in Daytona Beach and it was shot outside. I don't know the camera though.

The frontside pic is mine. It was done by placing the board on a window ledge on a nice sunny day. The camera is an old 6 or 7 year old Canon A80 with macro mode enabled in "program" mode. The shot is handheld (no tripod). The Canon A80 has probably taken over 40,000 shots and was a victim of the failing CCD, but Canon fixed it for free.

You can probably find a Canon A80 on ebay for $20.

Thanks for the Info!

[tervel12]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

I will try to get some better pics for you. The black blob on the inductor was soldering mishap, got a little too close and melted it a little bit. I will also work on a list of tested components for you.

awyatt2, what do you mean by 'break two wires', simply disconnect them?

[awyatt2]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

you cut them and hook them where they cut on and off with a switch, black to black orange to orange thru the switch.

[tervel12]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

Ok, I have done some testing on the power supply and I have attached a pdf file with some voltage reading marked on the pdf. I am only showing the one corner of the power supply because there is no voltage on 12v, 10v, or 3.3v test points in this area of the board.

The 12v test point in the center of the board (labeled TP12VS) does have 12 volts, the 30v test point has 30.5v and the 15v test point has 17v.

I will do some more test points when I get time, but hopefully this will help.

Thank you all for the input.

[tervel12]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

Duplicate picture, I didn't think the first one uploaded.

[awyatt2]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

you do not have a power supply problem you have a ton of bad caps on the dm and fmt board, this tv is very well noted for this. if you want it to work do what i told you, and it will work until some component fails. i have a hot air solder station and have replaced all the caps on my dm and fmt board. they simply are not up to the heat nor the task of filtering. i use4 mine for xbox games now and watch a plasma. agian it is not power supply.

[tervel12]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

I will get my hands on a dpdt switch and look for the orange and black wires and give it a try.

thanks.

[awyatt2]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

be sure the wires go from dm to fmt and dont cross them on the switch both on both off, orange to orange and black to black, when the set boots before turning on tv turn on switch. leave switch off till the green light goes out. when it goes out turn on the switch you installed and turn on power. then your tv will work.

[awyatt2]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

here you go, had o search for it. the man who did the mod wrote this:
Here is my solution-After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105 degrees C.)I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D.Note that the first time I plugged it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up normally.But when I had to unplug the set to fully re assemble it, it came back.

The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again.

You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch.Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser Elec…) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to disassemble the whole thing again.)On the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”.It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire.Leave the black wires connectedand cut the orange and brown ones about an inch from the connector.Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and connector side orange)use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.)Now take the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram below.The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.




Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV.You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you can do it however you like)

Here is how to use it-From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so the wires are connecting.Hit the power button. The TV should turn on- your done!Yeah!

From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state.Assuming you have the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on normally… Again you are done…

Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work.If you tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure above.

Note this is much easier to do than it sounds.Also note that it helps if you have the repair manual.Its titled V26 Repair Manual –full This is nice to have because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements

[electronicsurplus]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

I have had the same problem with the same TV

The problem with mine was the door covering the bulb has a small tab which trips the safety switch and, I had put the cover on upside down (Very easy to do since, it is square)

When I removed the cover to see what the problem was I discovered that the switch was not being tripped

Just wanted to add my 2 cents if it helps

Jon

[tervel12]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

here you go, had o search for it. the man who did the mod wrote this:
Here is my solution-After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105 degrees C.)I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D.Note that the first time I plugged it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up normally.But when I had to unplug the set to fully re assemble it, it came back.

The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital Module) board's microprocessors tying to establish communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again.

You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch.Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser Elec…) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to disassemble the whole thing again.)On the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”.It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire.Leave the black wires connectedand cut the orange and brown ones about an inch from the connector.Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and connector side orange)use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection points. (If you can't get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure the joints can't short out to each other or the electrical chassis.)Now take the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram below.The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.




Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV.You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you can do it however you like)

Here is how to use it-From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so the wires are connecting.Hit the power button. The TV should turn on- your done!Yeah!

From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state.Assuming you have the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on normally… Again you are done…

Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the other way (if the TV won't turn on even without a blinking LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work.If you tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure above.

Note this is much easier to do than it sounds.Also note that it helps if you have the repair manual.Its titled V26 Repair Manual –full This is nice to have because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements

I finally got a DPDT switch. (Been very busy lately). Got it wired up tonight and, Voila! No more GLOD! It actually works.

For the most part anyway. I have a static sound but no picture. Not even a display in the corner telling me the current input. I will have to go back over everything to make sure I have everything connected.

With all of these wire I may have missed reconnecting one of them.

Thank you so much for the help!

[awyatt2]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

check the two ribbon cables going from fmt to dm board

[tervel12]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

I was thinking maybe one of the ribbon cable since they were a little tricky to get connected and routed through the dm board mounting plate but they are good.

I left the tv on for awhile and eventually the tv shut off and now the power light is red indicating that the lamp is blown.

So since there is no way that I know of to test one of these lamps, I will have to order a replacement.

[tervel12]

Re: Mitsubishi WS-52525 blinking green power light

Well, it wasnt the lamp. I had found two connectors unplugged on the power supply that I had forgotten to reconnect.

Once I had those reconnected and followed the power-up procedure the lamp came on. However, now the screen has a checkerboard pattern of black and green rectangles.

I did a little searching and found that there are two smd diodes and two smd capacitors that are known to cause this. D8f00 & D8f01 and C8f26 & C8f29 are the components. After interpreting the code on the diodes, I was able to find replacements at www.digikey.com (http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...SCT-ND/2120681) and (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSea...68972178096415).

There are no markings on the capacitors, and I do not have the schematic for this tv. Doing some searching, it appears that it is a 1uf 25v cap.

There are places that sell the kits for $20 + shipping but I can get the parts at digikey for less than $5 total. So now I just have to wait for the snail-mail.