Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

[ryn0909]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

well i returned the board i bought off of ebay, and purchased another one for $85 from a different seller on ebay. tv will power on, blue light on, backlights come on but screen is blank, no blue screen or logo

[SlickClick]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

Im not trying to do a thread High Jack Here... But I have a similar problem where the Red Light comes on and when the power button is hit the Blue light comes on and the screen illuminates -ie backlights come on- and nothing more... The Guy who gave me the TV put it in the Shop and they told him it needed a Power Supply...

So I searched around the internet and I found a Video of a guy who repaired all the caps on his Power Board and it fixed this same problem...

My problem is I removed the Caps from the Board, only noting where 3 of them went... So I have 7 Caps I dont know where which on goes...

4 - Black 16v 1000uF
&
3 - Brown 35v 470uF

I got the factory Service manual in PDF but the image is crap...

Can anyone or does anyone have a pic of the row of Caps along the left side of the power board under the Aluminum Heat Sink Transistor Panel or the Values of:
C50 thru C53, C55, C56, C61, C64, C65, & C66

I believe C56 & C61 are 25v 470uF & C53 is 35v 470uF

[ryn0909]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

here ya go bro....
c50 thru c53-- 35v 470uF
c55,c64,c65,c66-- 16v 1000uF
c56,c61-- 25v 470uF

[SlickClick]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

Thanks Ryn... I installed all the New Caps; But It didnt fix my problem... I have the same model as Listed here on this thread... the TLA-04011c...

The Website, the guy has the same issue on that you asked for is:
http://www.polaroid-tv.com/polaroid-lcd-tv/parts/

Its a different Model Polaroid but same issue...

Now Back to Figuring out what is really going on here... Cause this TV is Nice and I got it for free so Id like to fix it... So Far I only got 20$ into it... But Id be nice to figure out why it Turns on But No Picture...

Service Manual says to "Change AD Board Box" But what the Hell Part is that..?

This Polaroid Service Manual should be packaged in the Toilet Paper Isle... Cause I swear its by far the Worst Book ive ever tried to read, and the schematics are garbage cant even read them...

[ryn0909]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

well this is where im at....... at FIRST, i had red light on but no power or blue light... i replaced the main board with a used one, i then got it to power on and show a blue screen, but no logo or anything else. After figuring the board to be bad, i sent it back and ordered a different one from a different seller. I installed the 2nd used board and now i got it to power on with blue light on, the backlights are on, but the screen is black...... and thats where i sit with it...... lol

[SlickClick]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

OK so per the "service manual" and at the advice of the previous posters of this thread to check the transistors on the "Main Board" I did the Following with the Following Results...

Per Service Manual:
-Note All Tests were done with Unit complete connections as photoed in Pic1-

Check Pin 7 of the "D-Sub 37 Pin" Connector;
Is pin 7 Active High..? = Result: 1.287v

Check Inverter Power (24v) of LCD Panel OK?
All Reds = 23.6x volts at power supply and inverter board

Check Pin 5 of DS37P Conn. Active Low (see panel Spec)?
Pin 5 = 3.239v

That completes the Service Manual Checks all results end in what they call changing the "AD Box" which I assume is the Main Board... =/

-Note: it seems to me that the "high" of pin 7 is Low and the "low" of pin 5 is High.-

Additional Tests Done by Me... I tested most all the Transistors on the Board... For the Most part they all seem to within Spec Except for the Following on the Main Board...

-Note all Voltages are placed on the Pins as how the appear on the Main Board Installed-

A1
U4 & U8 = AS117L
B064024

.034v
U4 = 1.283v 1.289v
3.237v

3.238v
U8 = 1.480v 1.480v
.228v

UTC
U35 = 78T05AL
eb UAOC

11.97v
U35 = NC -.020v
4.93v

These Numbers Look some what out of sync with what I think would be Normal -granted im not a TV repair guy but i've had training in micro electronics- My concerns are the very low #'s on U4 - .034v and U8 - .228v Now U35 Has a Neg (-) voltage meaning it could be ground, but all other transistors like these have had a positive (+) voltage reading on those sides.

The
-CN3- Blue Remote Wire from Power Board to the Main Board -JP1- read 4.44v
-CN3-Orange V2 wire from the PB to MB -JP1- read 11.97v
-CN3- Red V1 & VSB Wires on PB from MB -JP1 read 4.85v
-CN4- Brown Wire from MB -JP1- Read 23.61v
All Black Ground Wires on PB & MB Equal a Negative (-) .0xx Voltage
All Red Wires from PB's CN2 & CN4 to the LCD Panel Inverter Read 23.6x Volts

Any Advice or Help with the situation would be great...

Forgive me for not Highlight exactly where on the circuit board the "U" transistors are I cant find my photoshop CD to install on this Computer...

[PlainBill]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

OK so per the "service manual" and at the advice of the previous posters of this thread to check the transistors on the "Main Board" I did the Following with the Following Results...

Per Service Manual:
-Note All Tests were done with Unit complete connections as photoed in Pic1-

Check Pin 7 of the "D-Sub 37 Pin" Connector;
Is pin 7 Active High..? = Result: 1.287v

Check Inverter Power (24v) of LCD Panel OK?
All Reds = 23.6x volts at power supply and inverter board

Check Pin 5 of DS37P Conn. Active Low (see panel Spec)?
Pin 5 = 3.239v

That completes the Service Manual Checks all results end in what they call changing the "AD Box" which I assume is the Main Board... =/

-Note: it seems to me that the "high" of pin 7 is Low and the "low" of pin 5 is High.-

Additional Tests Done by Me... I tested most all the Transistors on the Board... For the Most part they all seem to within Spec Except for the Following on the Main Board...

-Note all Voltages are placed on the Pins as how the appear on the Main Board Installed-

A1
U4 & U8 = AS117L
B064024

.034v
U4 = 1.283v 1.289v
3.237v

3.238v
U8 = 1.480v 1.480v
.228v

UTC
U35 = 78T05AL
eb UAOC

11.97v
U35 = NC -.020v
4.93v

These Numbers Look some what out of sync with what I think would be Normal -granted im not a TV repair guy but i've had training in micro electronics- My concerns are the very low #'s on U4 - .034v and U8 - .228v Now U35 Has a Neg (-) voltage meaning it could be ground, but all other transistors like these have had a positive (+) voltage reading on those sides.

The
-CN3- Blue Remote Wire from Power Board to the Main Board -JP1- read 4.44v
-CN3-Orange V2 wire from the PB to MB -JP1- read 11.97v
-CN3- Red V1 & VSB Wires on PB from MB -JP1 read 4.85v
-CN4- Brown Wire from MB -JP1- Read 23.61v
All Black Ground Wires on PB & MB Equal a Negative (-) .0xx Voltage
All Red Wires from PB's CN2 & CN4 to the LCD Panel Inverter Read 23.6x Volts

Any Advice or Help with the situation would be great...

Forgive me for not Highlight exactly where on the circuit board the "U" transistors are I cant find my photoshop CD to install on this Computer...

You certainly put in a great deal of work, but there are a few problems. Let's deal with them one at a time.

While Photoshop is an excellent piece of software, using it for labeling pictures is similar to using an elephant gun to kill a fly. Microsoft included a flyswatter grade program in Windows. It's called 'Paint'. OK, Paint is more rolled up newspaper grade, but it does the job.

The readings on U4 and U8 don't make a lot of sense. Let's start over on those. I've attached a picture for the standard package of the AS1117 regulators. Pin 1 is either Gnd or the Adj input. Pin 2 is output, pin 3 is input. The tab is electrically connected to pin 2.

The AS1117 family comes in fixed and adjustable versions. The usual part number for the AS1117 family is AS1117L-n.n where nn is 1.5, 1.8, 3.3, etc.


PlainBill

[SlickClick]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

As per your Posted Thumbnail and Info...

U4: Pin1= .034v Pin2= 1.283v Pin3= 3.237v and Tab= 1.289v

U8: Pin1= .228v Pin2= 1.480v Pin3= 3.238v and Tab= 1.480v

There is no -n.n value on these components... Only the #'s I listed previously...

My previous posts spacing on the values were shifted by the forum system; so they did appear as I intended...

I included the pic of the Main Board again with so Paint on it... LoL

Thanks for the Insight and Help...

[retiredcaps]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

1) For U4 and U8, what are you using for ground? That is, where are you putting your black probe?

2) All your voltage readings in post #66 seem to be on the low side?

a) What is the make and model of your multimeter?
b) Change the batteries in your multimeter and re-measure U4 and U8 to see if there is a difference. Some multimeter will give incorrect readings even though the low battery indicator is not lit.

3) The reason for all the above is that most voltage regulators have a 1% tolerance. So a 3.3V DC regulator can be

3.3 x 1.01 = 3.333
3.3 x 0.99 = 3.267

So if you are reporting 3.238, this falls outside the 1%. Since you are reporting 4 digits, I'm assuming you have a decent 4000 count multimeter? Most of the cheap ebay 830 variations are only 3 1/2 digits or 2000 count.

[SlickClick]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

I have a Protek 506 Digital Multimeter... The Below Spec sheet says its a 3 3/4 Digit...

http://www.protektest.com/ProdInfo.asp?prodId=506

I will try with a fresh battery and see if it makes a difference...

I am Using the Chassis as Ground/where I clip my multimeter...

Update:
Put a New Battery in my Protek506 -it had a new one in it too that i put in a couple weeks ago none the less I tried it with a Brand New one- Same #'s on U4 & U8

I have another Digital Meter a Craftsman 82014 and put the New Battery in it and tested; results were slightly lower on this meter by no more than x.x16 the least varied by x.xx2

Results as follows:

U4: Pin1= .031v Pin2= 1.273v Pin3= 3.215v and Tab= 1.273v -Craftsman-
U4: Pin1= .034v Pin2= 1.283v Pin3= 3.237v and Tab= 1.289v -Protek-

U8: Pin1= .226v Pin2= 1.470v Pin3= 3.215v and Tab= 1.470v -Craftsman-
U8: Pin1= .228v Pin2= 1.480v Pin3= 3.238v and Tab= 1.480v -Protek-

[ryn0909]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

so as far as your tv goes, where you at with it? power on, backlights on but no display?

[SlickClick]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

Yes Ryn... Light toggles on to Blue Back Lights Come on but But No Image or Sound... There has to be an Issue with the Main Board... I wish I knew what Polaroid did to repair/refurbish these boards... If someone out there had a good working board to give us good #'s off of...

or if I could get a CLEAR READABLE Schematic; that would be nice too..!

[ryn0909]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

the person i bought the second board from is some kinda electronics tech i guess, and he sent me some instructions on checks to perform on the board he sent me, ill pull it from my email and post it here in a few



OK so i attached a txt file with all the checks he had me do..... hope this helps ya out

[SlickClick]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

Are these tests supposed to be done on the Green "Main Board" or on the Power Supply Board..?

[ryn0909]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

the main board

[SlickClick]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

Ok took me awhile to Locate all the test points but here are my results:

J7 = 10.97 - 11v
J8 = 10.96 - 11v

TP17 = 3.242v
TP29 = .57Xv
TP30 = .026v

TP33 = .037v - .031v

U35 = Pin1= 11.97v Pin3= 4.93v

According to the Tests Procedure Provided;

J7 & J8 - are supposed to be between 12v-18v; Which they are not...

TP17, TP29, & TP30 - are supposed to be at 5v; they are not...

TP33 - Is to be a "Digital Signal" which this appears to be; if it is at the right level I do not know because I dont have an oscilloscope...

U35 - Appears to be within acceptable Voltage Range...

I have Included Pics of where and what was tested...

What and where to Check Next..? Do I go Back to the Power Supply or is the Issue within the Main Board..?

[ryn0909]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

thats my question.... the guy hasnt responded to my email yet

heres what i got when i did my checks....
J7-11.03vdc
J8-11.03vdc
TP17-3.28vdc
TP29-0.19vdc
TP30-0.00vdc
U35- Leg1-12.13vdc
Leg3-4.99vdc


So it appears that you and i are have the "exact same" issue going on........ lol

[ryn0909]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

hey slick, question for ya....... on the back side of your mainboard, does it have a jumper-like piece soldered to the board, similar to the one in the pic i attached?????

[SlickClick]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

No Ryn; that is an Obvious repair... Have you tested across the Jumper for power..?

[ryn0909]

Re: Polaroid TLA-04011c Red Light on, no power on

no i have not yet...... however i was told that jumper it part of a revision upgrade for the replacement mainboards that was done BY Polaroid themselves...... ill let you read the emails, i attached them in txt file.


ALSO...... here is the other email i was loooking for, that was sent by the seller of my recently purchased board....

1) Flourescents/backlights have a feedback to the main board/SSB and communicate with the FPGA.
So-if any of the flourescents are leaky or not putting out sufficient light, the OCP (Over Current Protection of UCP (Under Current Protection) will tell the microprocessor to activate PD (Power Down).

2) The T-Con (Timing Controller) also gives feedback to the microcontroller (which is on the board that you purchased) to
shut the screen off.

It is very difficult to troubleshoot without a DSO (Digital Storage Oscilloscope) because of the nature of the digital signal.

We always try our very best to make sure the customer's problem gets resolved because that is how we have built our business in the past 40 years. We feel bad you are having an additional problem which does happen.

Hope this helps.