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Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

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    Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

    Here’s one I’ve had for a while that I haven’t posted: a CyberLink CWT-320ATX, rev C. As the model number suggests, it’s a Channel Well unit (or CWT for short), even though the UL number points to “REAL POWER ENTERPRISE CO LTD” (actually, the last time I checked, which was over a year ago, I think that UL number might have been leading to some other name… but regardless, it’s a CWT unit).

    Let’s start with a case picture:

    Perhaps familiar? It’s a power supply that often comes bundled with many cheap cases (though not necessarily under the name of CyberLink). This gem came with a computer I found next to a dumpster. I have another PSU very much like this – a TurboLink (that I haven’t posted pictures of yet). Same case, same QC sticker on the side with all of its various stamps, and of course, similar lack of weight and cables.

    Label on the CyberLink:

    320W max? Okay, not too overrated, it seems. Let’s see some internal shorts already. The underside of the PCB…

    … and we already see some heat marks. Not a good start, I suppose. Soldering is not all too bad, though – certainly better than cheap Sun Pro PSUs and probably many others. Spacing between traces on the primary side is decent.

    And finally, the guts (or the lack of any, if you will):

    Yup, it’s our old friend, the half-bridge.
    The heatsinks are fairly okay-sized - for a 200W PSU. Everything else is… well, how to say it nicely? … very undersized. Just look at those transformers! The main transformer is size “28” . That would be an acceptable size for a 19” LCD monitor, not a PC PSU – especially one claiming 320W! The BJT base-drive transformer is the typical small cute stuff in gutless wonder PSUs. I doubt it is a real size “19”. Only the 5VSB traffo is normal size.

    The worst part, however, is the 3.3V rail. Keen eyes may have noticed that there are no saturation and filter toroids for the 3.3V rail, thinking that this is perhaps a linear design with a MOSFET. Yet, as you are about to see below, there is no MOSFET for the 3.3V rail, so this is not a linear circuit either.
    No, it is much simpler than that. In fact, it’s so simple, it is stupid (it really is! )… the 3.3V rail is derived just the same way as the 5V, 12V, -12V, and -5V rails. In other words, this is a mega group-regulated design, and all of the rails share that same tiny output toroid coil.
    My guess would be that the 3.3V regulation is very crappy. I dare not I try this PSU in a computer, though.

    Anyways, a more detailed breakdown follows below.

    Primary/input side:

    Not much to talk about the input filter. It’s been replaced by a bunch of jumpers. :\
    Diodes for bridge rectifier appear to be 2A0x – i.e. a standard 2A diodes.
    Primary caps are MK (?) 330 uF, 200V, 85C, 22x30 mm. Their real capacity, however, is only 173 uF and 146 uF respectively (with the second one showing almost 2x the ESR of the first cap – about 0.4 Ohms). I suspect these are Fuhjyyu rejects in disguise (since Fuhjyyu does have an “MK” series). But who knows.
    Primary switchers for the main PS are a pair of 2SC5763 NPN BJTs, which are weaker than the standard 13007’s we normally get in most gutless wonders.
    5VSB has a 2SC5027 NPN BJT.

    Secondary/output side:

    All output caps are Fuhjyyu TNR. Just saying this so I don’t have to keep re-typing it.

    3.3V rail has 2x 10V, 470 uF, 8x12 mm caps. PI coil between them has been bypassed with a jumper. Rectifier is rated for 10A and 45V (an STPS10L45CT). Minimum load resistor on this rail is 15 Ohms.

    5V rail also has 2x 10V, 470 uF, 8x12 mm caps and PI coil bypassed with jumpers. Rectifier is rated for 15A and 45V (an STPS1545CT). Load resistor on this rail is 150 Ohms.

    12V rail has a single 16V, 470 uF, 8x14 mm cap, though there is an empty spot on the board for a second 8mm cap. PI coil is *sigh* bypassed again. For a rectifier, we get the 3A “diodes-on-a-bracket” treatment. Load resistor on this rail is 470 Ohms.

    Both the -12V and -5V rails have only a single 16V, 220 uF, 6.3x11 mm cap each. And both are rectified by a pair of 1.5A (FR153) diodes. Load resistors are 470 Ohms and 150 Ohms for -12V and -5V rails, respectively.

    5VSB has a 16V, 220 uF, 6.3x11 mm cap and a 10V, 470 uF, 8x12 mm cap. This time, there was a PI coil installed between them - almost shocking! Output rectifier appears to be either a 1.5A or 2A diode – I couldn’t read the numbers on it. The minimum load resistor is a 68 Ohm (thus pulling about 0.38W).


    Perhaps that explains the heat marks on the board now. After all, this PSU was powering an old ECS motherboard with a 64W P4 Willamate 1.7 GHz CPU. The motherboard provides power to the CPU from the 5V rail. But the 5V rail on the PSU has only a 15A rectifier – i.e. it can provide a maximum of 75W on the 5V rail. Even worse, the TDP rating of that CPU is average. Its maximum power dissipation rating is about 80W. So on full CPU load, this PSU’s 5V rail was likely getting overloaded. And we are not even counting other devices that could have been using the 5V rail. Interestingly, when I got the PSU, it was quite dusty, so it looks like the PC was in use for a while. How everything has survived is beyond me, though. Even the motherboard caps appear to be okay, despite the skimpy filtering from the PSU. I guess these cheap CWT PSUs really are tougher than they look.

    5VSB section:
    I’d like to dedicate some detail to the 5VSB circuit, not because it’s something special, but because I had the PSU open and decided to trace the 5VSB circuit anyways.
    As stated, the 5VSB main transistor is a 2SC5027 NPN BJT. It’s driven by a C945 (also a NPN BJT). So this is naturally a 2-transistor design (with feedback, as the presence of the optocoupler next to the 5VSB transformer indicates).
    Here is a complete schematic of the circuit:

    There IS a “critical” capacitor in this 5VSB circuit, though it’s only a 1 uF cap, so I’m thinking the possibility of a very high “killer” 5VSB voltage is unlikely to happen here if this cap was to fail. Nonetheless, I still recommend replacing it if you have one of these “better-built” CWT units that you’d like to save.

    That said, I did notice something interesting about the 5VSB on my unit when I powered it up yesterday. With no load, everything appeared normal and the voltage on 5VSB was normal too – about 4.98V. I then put an incandescent car bulb on the 5VSB that loaded it with about 356 mA. The voltage was still normal at 4.92V. However, when I unplugged the PSU (with the bulb still hooked), the 5VSB made a longer and louder-than-normal screeching sound – something that my Turbolink CWT unit does NOT do at all. I’ve seen this before with a cheap Sun Pro –built RaidMax PSU. It’s usually an indication that the output caps on the 5VSB have started to fail. If nothing is done, the 5VSB secondary auxiliary rail can go out of control eventually (when the caps fail), and possibly end up killing the PWM controller or making the PSU do weird things (on the Sun Pro Raidmax, only the current-limiting resistor for the PWM controller was starting to burn out, but the screeching was present whenever a load of more than 50 mA was present on the 5VSB).
    With this CWT PSU, the output caps must have “just” started to fail, because when I checked the primary and secondary auxiliary rails from the 5VSB transformer, they appeared to vary within reasonable limits as I loaded the 5VSB (8.5V to 9.2V for the aux. primary, and 11.6V to 12.6V for the aux. secondary).

    So just for fun, I changed the 10V, 470 uF Fuhjyyu TNR output capacitor on the 5VSB with a 6.3V, 820 uF Rubycon MFZ (an Xbox 360 motherboard special ). I attached the same incandescent bulb again and repeated the same power ON, power OFF test. This time, the 5VSB no longer did the loud turn-OFF screech noise and the voltage regulation was rock stable at 4.99V (vs. 4.92V before). Yes, I’m sure the higher capacitance of the new cap is helping, but that Fuhjyyu TNR does appear to be developing high ESR - when I charged it with a 9V battery and shorted its terminals, there was no spark at all. Normally, with 470 uF caps charged like that, I can get a small spark (even with general purpose ones).

    Here’s a chart that tabulates all of the experiments I did on the 5VSB:

    As you can see, the PSU is pulling about 2.7W @ 0.47 PF from the wall even with nothing attached to the 5VSB. Clearly, this is not a very good design! However, it’s not the worst, either. I tested most of my other PSUs, and with the exception of a 250W HiPro, all the 2-transistor PSUs had their 5VSB pull about the same amount of power from the wall with no load. The worst was a Bestec ATX-1956D, pulling over 4W with NO LOAD. Ouch!

    Sorry, no other load tests were performed on this PSU. I’m glad I don’t have a scope and load tester, though. Otherwise, I could probably go on.
    Okay, I’m finished. Whew!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by momaka; 07-27-2014, 07:54 PM.

    #2
    Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

    It looks very similar to the Okia 420ATX in my original el-cheapo PSU roundup - http://hardwareinsights.com/wp/the-e...-round-up-2/9/. Needless to say, it can't deliver anything in spec.
    I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

    No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

    Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

    Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

      Heh, I have some "470uF" MK caps. They read about 330uF... go figure! I don't have an ESR meter, so I can't be sure if they are bad or not.

      OMG, Your drawing skills are amazing! 5 stars! :P
      Muh-soggy-knee

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

        We share the same passion for smps and especially the badly designed units :P

        Great post and analysis!

        Well done momaka

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

          Originally posted by goodpsusearch View Post
          We share the same passion for smps and especially the badly designed units :P
          I think a lot of us do, I know I do!
          Last edited by ben7; 07-28-2014, 08:27 AM. Reason: spelling error .... I I I I I I lol
          Muh-soggy-knee

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

            I was just looking at a 300W PSU that recently died on me, looks very similar to this in terms of heatsinks, but it had 2x680uF primaries and the main transformer is a bit larger. I think it needs new output caps...

            Speaking of bad PSUs I just measured a Deer PSU, it consumes 6W (for 5VSB) while off and 16W while on, both unloaded - using a Kill-a-Watt to measure. At least it still works... not sure for how long however...

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

              If the OEM spent some dimes using 680uF caps for bridge rectification then the psu maybe can do its 300W.

              You should check if their capacity is indeed 680uF though cause many manufacturers like to put fake primary caps in psus.

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                Excellent post! That's probably one of the worst PSU's I've ever seen. Leadman might take the cake though

                I suspect these are Fuhjyyu rejects in disguise (since Fuhjyyu does have an “MK” series). But who knows.
                Probably, it looks like they have the typical "Y" style Fuhjyyu vent. I've thought the same as with "Fhy" caps. They're usually paired with Asia'X capacitors which are re-sleeved Fuhjyyu. Plus, has anyone actually seen a non-primary Fhy capacitor?

                How everything has survived is beyond me, though.
                I think the only explanation can be the fact that the fan is wired straight to the 12V, giving the thing plenty of airflow (Although the dust might void my theory) And the fact that it uses lead based solder. What fan does it use by the way?

                Yes, I’m sure the higher capacitance of the new cap is helping, but that Fuhjyyu TNR does appear to be developing high ESR
                Could the higher capacitance caps also explain the very minor drop in efficiency after swapping? And also I think you meant 0.356A on the diagram

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                  Originally posted by c_hegge View Post
                  It looks very similar to the Okia 420ATX in my original el-cheapo PSU roundup - http://hardwareinsights.com/wp/the-e...-round-up-2/9/. Needless to say, it can't deliver anything in spec.
                  Ha! I remember reading that review a while back. I'm still amazed that it made it to 200W of "RAW" power. I wonder how much further the primary could have went if you didn't overload the 12V "rectifier" .

                  No this is not a very similar PSU - it's the same exact thing. Besides OKIA, I think Athena also had a few units on New Egg before that appeared with that same fan vent and QC sticker.

                  Originally posted by ben7
                  OMG, Your drawing skills are amazing! 5 stars! :P
                  Thank you.
                  Well, what do you expect? - I do have almost 7 years worth of college classes after all (and still no degree ). I keep doing the homework right but then screw up on the tests .
                  (and on bad days/weeks/months, I screw up both)

                  Originally posted by goodpsusearch
                  We share the same passion for smps and especially the badly designed units :P
                  Yes, it's almost like a fetish - and a weird one, nonetheless

                  Originally posted by Pentium4
                  Leadman might take the cake though
                  Agreed.
                  Their designs are just crap even when they use decent components. Just look at everell's thread on the LP-6100D. I always though that would make a decent PSU. It blew under or around 200W load. And it has components and heatsinks similarly sized to LiteON.

                  Originally posted by Pentium4
                  I think the only explanation can be the fact that the fan is wired straight to the 12V, giving the thing plenty of airflow (Although the dust might void my theory) And the fact that it uses lead based solder. What fan does it use by the way?
                  I guess.
                  But that still doesn't explain how the motherboard caps (OST RLX) haven't cooked yet, despite being overloaded with ripple and heat from an inneficient SINGLE-SIDED buck converter (i.e. old and inefficient).
                  So I'm just going to believe that magic is possible.

                  The fan is the same as the one in c_hegge's review...
                  It's a Rulian Science RDM8025SA rated for 12V and 0.13A

                  Originally posted by Pentium4
                  Could the higher capacitance caps also explain the very minor drop in efficiency after swapping?
                  Yes, possibly. Or it could have been the temperature in my room. When the AC is ON, it can drop by as much as 5F.

                  Originally posted by Pentium4
                  And also I think you meant 0.356A on the diagram
                  Good catch. Yes, should be 0.356 A (or 356 mA as post states).
                  I also had a mistake in the diagram but found out just before submitting the post and corrected it with Photoshop (drew the 5027 BJT as a MOSFET).

                  If I make a post without a mistake, something must be wrong with me .
                  Last edited by momaka; 07-28-2014, 07:13 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                    Originally posted by momaka View Post
                    Ha! I remember reading that review a while back. I'm still amazed that it made it to 200W of "RAW" power. I wonder how much further the primary could have went if you didn't overload the 12V "rectifier"
                    13007s usually let the magic smoke out at about 300W load. The switchers in this PSU are rated for 1A lower. So, I would say that they could come pretty close. I recon 250W might have been OK for them if the secondary side had been up to the job.
                    I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

                    No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

                    Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

                    Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                      Nice diagram

                      If that 1uf cap fails (looses it capacitance) does that mean that excess current will go through the optoisolator (when it is on), instead of charging the capacitor,
                      and hence, excess current through the transistors, which results in a greater voltage potential (since I is proportional to V) at the 5vsb pin?

                      (of course, i'm assuming that leakage current through the cap is negligible, compared to the effects of decreased capacitance - so the combined effect is reduced current flow into the charging cap)

                      And is the reason why the feedack circuit does not correct this, because it does not regulate voltage, but rather the duty cycle?

                      As you say, 1uf doesnt look like it would be too critical.
                      So from that respect, it looks like it's designed better than many other budget psu's, unless, of course, if the designer's were trying to save money by using a 1uf when they should have really used a higher value cap.

                      What is the actual job of that capacitor?
                      Last edited by socketa; 07-28-2014, 10:11 PM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                        It's amazing that you can get 200W out of this thing when this is 75W:
                        https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=310
                        https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...4&postcount=62

                        Fortunately, mine doesn't have the brown glue. That PSU uses 2SC4242 switching transistors. It's hard to see the part numbers on the rectifiers, but I would guess that they used a 10A rectifier for +12V and a 30A rectifier for +5V. I have no idea how that 20mA 5VSB rail is generated.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                          It is the similar set up as the one in this thread:
                          https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...?t=6999&page=2 which it uses 47uF in stead of 1uf.
                          Ref to SCH on this thread as shown in post #1, this is a one transistor (2SC5027) self oscillating circuit, the bottom winding on the left side provides the positive feedback for the circuit (180 Ohms, 22nF cap, 1N4148, Base of 2SC5027) to oscillate, it is also used to generated DC Voltage generated by 1N41418 DIODE and filter by 1uF cap. That DC voltage is fed into the OPTO, the more the LED in the OTPO is turn on the more DC BIAS is applied to the 2SC945 which is use to control the BIAS current feeding the Base of 2SC5027 through 470K bias resistor. When 2SC945 receive more bias, the bias current for the 2sc5027 will be routed to ground (through C and E), the amount of current through 2sc945 is determined by how much the OPTO is turn on (just think of 2sc945 as a variable resistor and as part of the bias circuit for 2sc5027), if the output voltage tries to go upm the opto will be turned on more as so the the 2sc945 so 2sc5027 will be turned on less so the output voltage will be reduced. If there are too much current through 2sc5027, then there will be more voltage drops across the current sensing 0.5 Ohms resistor which will alo turn on 2sc945 more to reduse the bias current for the 2sc5027. The 390 Ohms and the 1n1418 sereis connection does not look right in thsi circuit compared to the Antec diagram.
                          If the filter cap 1uF is not present (lost its capacitance) then the drive for the 2sc945 will be driven by high frequency AC which will make it swithing on and off at high frequency which will then there will be no control feedback to keep the circuit in check.
                          Last edited by budm; 07-29-2014, 12:31 PM.
                          Never stop learning
                          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                          Inverter testing using old CFL:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                          TV Factory reset codes listing:
                          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                            Originally posted by socketa View Post
                            As you say, 1uf doesnt look like it would be too critical.
                            So from that respect, it looks like it's designed better than many other budget psu's, unless, of course, if the designer's were trying to save money by using a 1uf when they should have really used a higher value cap.
                            Could be that too. The other CWT unit I have has a 3.3 uF cap.
                            I might try experimenting with them to see what will happen when I increase and decrease the capacitance.

                            Originally posted by socketa View Post
                            What is the actual job of that capacitor?
                            Smooths out the primary auxiliary rail, which is used for controling the regulation of the 5VSB via that optocoupler. budm pretty much explains it in his post. It's a closed-loop system.
                            With 5VSB too low, the 431 shunt does not conduct, and thus voltage on the optocoupler photodiode is low. With that, the output side of the optocoupler is not conducting as well. This leaves the voltage bias on the 945 transistor's base low, so the 945 is not conducting much either. Therefore, the voltage bias on the 5027 transistor's base rises (due to that 470 KOhm resistor on the 320 V DC line and the 1N4148 diode on the primary auxiliary winding) so the 5027 stays on for a longer amount of time. If either the current through the 5027's Emitter resistor goes too high or the 431 shunt begins to conduct more (due to 5VSB rising and going a slight bit above 5V), the 5027 transistor will turn off and/or stay on for a shorted amount of time.

                            Originally posted by lti
                            It's amazing that you can get 200W out of this thing when this is 75W:
                            https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=310
                            https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...4&postcount=62
                            Well, that's a HiPro - no wonder it is so under-rated. With HiPro, you do the exact opposite as you do with cheap PSUs - you take the printed wattage on the label and multiply it by two .

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                              Originally posted by momaka View Post
                              Ha! I remember reading that review a while back. I'm still amazed that it made it to 200W of "RAW" power. I wonder how much further the primary could have went if you didn't overload the 12V "rectifier" .
                              He said the 5V rectifier failed, which was surprising. I think everyone expected the little 3A diodes on the 12V rail to fail.
                              Originally posted by momaka View Post
                              Well, what do you expect? - I do have almost 7 years worth of college classes after all (and still no degree ). I keep doing the homework right but then screw up on the tests .
                              (and on bad days/weeks/months, I screw up both)
                              I can't even do the homework, and I still get good grades. I feel like people who actually know what they're doing get lower grades than I do.

                              That is a nice schematic, but I think you might want a better eraser.
                              Originally posted by momaka View Post
                              Well, that's a HiPro - no wonder it is so under-rated. With HiPro, you do the exact opposite as you do with cheap PSUs - you take the printed wattage on the label and multiply it by two .
                              That one isn't that good. It runs hot, the fan is loud (it's temperature controlled, but it receives 12V after the computer has been running for a few minutes), the 5V rail doesn't have any protection (I discovered that when a component in a CD-ROM drive shorted 5V to ground - it burned a trace on the drive's PCB instead of shutting down), and the one in the second link is full of the bad tan glue. That second one is also a year newer than mine (you can see the date code on the PCB - 9840 on mine, 9933 on the one with the bad glue), and I'm surprised that Compaq was still making that computer that late in 1999.

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                                Originally posted by budm
                                The 390 Ohms and the 1n1418 sereis connection does not look right in thsi circuit compared to the Antec diagram.
                                I'll double-check it.

                                Originally posted by lti View Post
                                That is a nice schematic, but I think you might want a better eraser.
                                Yeah that eraser has started to become soft and smudges a little bit. It doesn't help that I put too much pressure on the pencil either, though.

                                Originally posted by lti View Post
                                the 5V rail doesn't have any protection (I discovered that when a component in a CD-ROM drive shorted 5V to ground - it burned a trace on the drive's PCB instead of shutting down),
                                I've had the same thing happen with an L&C PSU. May not be lack of protection. Could be that the resistance of the wires and connectors is too high and so the short circuit doesn't trip.

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                                  Wow, that is one nasty power supply. I can't think of anything positive to say of it maybe besides the fact that it doesn't have finless heatsinks, but even then I'm not sure the fins aid the heat dissipation of the rectifiers and bipolar transistors all that much given the fact that the base is so thin (probably not the thinnest ever, but thin enough for sure).

                                  Speaking of Hipro and linear regulation, wouldn't the main toroid still be used for that, in Hipro units that linear regulate the +3.3V rail, unless the linear regulated +3.3V rail has its own transformer tap? I say that because before the voltages in the transformer windings are rectified (by the rectifiers) and stepped down by the toroid to much lower voltages they are often quite high (though much lower in forward compared to half bridge), so the idea of having the +3.3V rectifier directly connected to the MOSFET that regulates it down would probably squander an inane amount of heat even at very low loads; I would think that there's either a seperate +5V output in the toroid that it's connected to or there's a separate +5V transformer winding altogether, unless both rectifiers really are used and shared between the +5V and +3.3V rail (thus directly stepping down +3.3V from the +5V winding in the toroid), but it doesn't seem to work that way in those PSUs.

                                  Also, in these units, the fan is directly wired to +12V, so the fact that there is still discoloration on the PCB shows how much of a travesty these units really are. Okay, that might have something to do with the 3A-diodes-on-brackets-treatment, but still. These supplies also appear to be quite old - over a decade old, actually, seeing as how yours has 2002 datecodes and c_hegge's 2003 datecodes. Not sure if no ferrite coil for the +12V rail is the worst thing in the world - c_hegge reviewed a 305W Hipro that has no ferrite coil for the +12V rail at all, just two 10x30 2200uF 16V Teapo SCs in parallel (in the review that is, it's been recapped since) and the ripple voltage never touched 17mV even at around 26A load.
                                  Last edited by Wester547; 07-31-2014, 12:31 PM.

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                                    #18
                                    Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                                    Not that much worse compared to what my father bought a while ago (and it died soon after) : https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...561#post400561

                                    At least this psu has room to add capacitors and inductors for filtering, while my model had none... but it had a dedicated 5v SB chip.

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                                      #19
                                      Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                                      Originally posted by Wester547 View Post
                                      Speaking of Hipro and linear regulation, wouldn't the main toroid still be used for that, in Hipro units that linear regulate the +3.3V rail
                                      Yes, as far as I remember, HiPro (at least those 250W units) have a separate rectifier for the 3.3V rail, hence a separate winding on the output toroid, and separete filter capacitors. This then goes through the MOSFET to regulate down to 3.3V. I'm not sure what the input voltage is exactly. Could be very close to 3.3V, or could be as high as 5V.

                                      On most cheap PSUs with linear 3.3V rail, it's the rectified 5V rail is used for the generation of the 3.3V rail.

                                      Here you just get 3.3V straight out of a tap on the transformer, so as you might have seen in c_hegge's review, the 3.3V regulation can be quite horrible depending on how you load the PSU.

                                      Originally posted by mariushm
                                      Not that much worse compared to what my father bought a while ago (and it died soon after) : https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...561#post400561
                                      Yeah, that one was quite a crappy PSU as well. If I had to pick... ah, mixed emotions here ... maybe run them in a ghetto parallel setup . Then you get the best (and worst) of both PSUs .
                                      And the possibility of double fireworks.

                                      By the way, I just got another computer with one of these CWT PSUs. It's still sitting in the trunk of my car, but I'll go tear it apart in a little bit. May be a while before I post pictures of it, though. I still have that other TurboLink PSU that I need to post. It's funny too, though nowhere as bad as this CyberLink.
                                      Last edited by momaka; 07-31-2014, 03:59 PM.

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                                        #20
                                        Re: Breakdown of a skimpy CyberLink CWT-320ATX 320W PSU (warning: inline images)

                                        Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                        Yes, as far as I remember, HiPro (at least those 250W units) have a separate rectifier for the 3.3V rail, hence a separate winding on the output toroid, and separete filter capacitors. This then goes through the MOSFET to regulate down to 3.3V. I'm not sure what the input voltage is exactly. Could be very close to 3.3V, or could be as high as 5V.
                                        Pretty sure every Hipro that linear regulates the +3.3V rail works that way. Are you saying that there's a separate transformer tap for the +3.3V rail in the main transformer, though? I thought it was taken from +5V's tap as they both share the same winding in most older power supplies that use the magamp circuit for +3.3V at least (unless you mean the voltage of the winding itself in the magamp). And are the filtering capacitors for the +3.3V rail before or after the MOSFET? It looks to me like they're after and that they're there to further smooth and regulate the voltage output. Also sort of surprised that they didn't cheap out more on the minimum load resistors in this unit as Deer are known to do (but that is Deer and not CWT).
                                        Last edited by Wester547; 07-31-2014, 05:13 PM.

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