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I had Linux installed on the new drive (the failing one still had Windows on it), and only one distro showed any problems. Mint and Lubuntu were fine, and booting Windows off the failing drive was also fine.
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I did that (by putting the original failing SSD in the second M.2 slot for Windows and installing Linux on the new drive). It's just that I picked a bad distro. I'm in Windows now on the second drive (or third since I also have an 8TB HDD), but since that old SSD is still counting up bad blocks, I'm going to put Windows back on the new SSD and buy a cheap new one for Linux (and probably go back to Lubuntu, even though this computer doesn't need a lightweight distro).
Also, Gigabyte sucks at BIOSes, so installing two NVMe drives makes the video error LED light up after the OS has successfully...
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I've confirmed that the flash drive works in Lubuntu and Mint. Between that and the weird instability, I see why MX Linux has so few users.
I feel like going back to Windows temporarily (by cloning the failing SSD onto the new one) until I figure out what's wrong with Mint (or just use Lubuntu, even though this computer doesn't need a lightweight distro). Also, I forgot about the rest of the video software that I use. I need to find something to replace Avisynth and VirtualDub. I do too much stuff on this computer.
As long as I still have time to edit, I will add that...Last edited by lti; 07-15-2024, 10:54 PM.
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I found this thread again while I was looking for something else, and I was already thinking of installing Linux on my main computer. Then I noticed the number of bad blocks on my SSD climbing, so I got a new SSD and installed Linux. I used MX Linux, and it feels a little flaky. I've already seen random background stuff segfault (only visible when I was looking through dmesg for something unrelated). Unfortunately, Linux Mint ran poorly (at least when booted from random cheap flash drives - I didn't try installing it). Video was really choppy, even when simply moving windows around. I checked...
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That's how I adjusted them this time, and I used a plastic screwdriver both times. This was a different pair of receiving headphones (she impulse bought a replacement when the power switch failed instead of having me replace the switch), so I guess the original headphones were tuned a little off....
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I finally got to look at these. The static was only in the right channel, and the problem was my fault. When I did the original LED bypass hack, I messed with those two coils. However, I marked their original positions, and turning the 2.8MHz coil back to its original position got rid of the static. The 2.3MHz actually had slightly shorter range with the coil in its factory setting, so I adjusted it slightly from factory. I guess I don't need new LEDs, but it would be nice to fix it right. There's currently a 100 ohm resistor bridged across the bad LED (which still lights, but it has high internal...
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Is that your board? Having two of the class D amp filter inductors circled looks odd. If that is your board, it looks like there are multiple blown caps (at least one), but it's hard to tell with that glue on top.
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I remember that I did a lot of cleaning and resoldering after I took those pictures. The LEDs had a higher forward voltage than standard 940nm LEDs, and I was never able to see light from 940nm LEDs either. It seems intentional to use a shorter wavelength either for show (Sony's marketing pictures also show the dim red glow) or so Sony could save a cent on an indicator LED.
They are using two FM oscillators at 2.3MHz for the left channel and 2.8MHz for the right channel. That appears to be a common design for IR wireless headphones, but older units used a dedicated IC (probably discontinued...
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Sony MDR-IF245R transmitter LED replacement
I'm looking at the transmitter from these wireless headphones because the range is too short. One of the LEDs failed many years ago (nine years ago - I found pictures that I took then) and was simply bypassed to make them work again, but it seems like the range has been degrading since then. They're near-IR LEDs (I can see them dimly lit red, so they aren't the standard 940nm), and I haven't been able to find the actual wavelength. Does anyone here happen to know what replacement LEDs I should use? Maybe I can adjust the transmitter was well while I'm in there, or there's another fault. I should...
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I think the CD player was suggested as a known good reference and not a convoluted attempt at ripping.
I have a similar device with a PCM2902 clone, and its line in is detected as a microphone. I've just found an application note from TI that acknowledges this, and it states that Windows adds its own amplification in software. In addition, I noticed that Windows 10 defaults to mono recording, and it has to be switched to stereo every time the interface is plugged in.
[URL]https://www.ti.com/lit/an/sbfa020/sbfa020.pdf?ts=1714815545344&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.ti.com%252Fproduct%252Fde-de%252FPCM2900C[/URL]...Last edited by lti; 05-04-2024, 12:35 PM.
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Seagate drives normally have huge raw values for read and seek error rates while being perfectly healthy (aside from a few failure-prone models).
I never noticed a difference between CrystalDiskInfo and other SMART monitoring tools.
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I've also run into unusually small caps from these weird off-brands. Sometimes they measure close to their rated capacitance, and sometimes they measure 15-20% low (still in spec, but barely). The worst part is when the PCB and chassis were designed specifically for the oddball cap that's smaller than anything from a reputable manufacturer.
Are they the Chongx caps with "vent" misspelled? There are claims that they're counterfeits of the real Chongx, which is sad. They might be worth trying if the voltage in the circuit doesn't go too close to 35V.
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I upgraded the hard drive in [URL="https://www.badcaps.net/forum/general-topics/general-computer-tech-discussion/855-post-your-system?p=1307592#post1307592"]my desktop[/URL] because I filled it and stuff spilled over to the SSD. It's now an 8TB WD Blue (WD80EAAZ). Its seek noise is loud.
I put the original Seagate in an enclosure. It has almost 49,000 hours on it and sounds a little rough, but it still works with no bad sectors.I upgraded the hard drive in [URL="https://www.badcaps.net/forum/general-topics/general-computer-tech-discussion/855-post-your-system?p=1307592#post1307592"]myLast edited by lti; 03-25-2024, 09:30 PM.
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You don't want the cap to actually hit its rated voltage. There should be some margin.
I've heard that caps will fail faster if you run them too far below their rated voltage, but I haven't ever found any official documentation to confirm or deny that.
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Now the 16:9 DVD rips play in the correct aspect ratio (not stretched too wide).
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That's a microcontroller, so it all depends on the program.
[URL]https://www.microchip.com/en-us/product/pic12c508a[/URL]
Damn, I missed page 2.https://That's a microcontroller, so...missed page 2.That's a microcontroller, so it all depends on the program.
[URL]https://www.microchip.com/en-us/product/pic12c508a[/URL]
Damn, I missed page 2.
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I just bought what discs were available semi-locally, and I never had problems with any of them. I haven't burned a disc in at least 10 years, and that was just to burn a game disc back in my gaming days (for a game that was released for free as a bin/cue image and meant for Windows 95 or DOS). That was onto a CD-RW that I erased and reused a few times, and it's still one of two discs that the drive in my old Compaq can still read (which doesn't really matter since that computer runs the game in slow-motion, even though the framerate is fine).
I never noticed a speed...
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https://[url]http://www.paullinebarg...x12mm, though.[url]http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/RM%20%5bSanshui%20Riming%5d/RM%20%5bradial%20thru-hole%5d%20KLE%20Series.pdf[/url]
Those look a lot smaller than 8x12mm, though.
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The media seems reliable to me, but the drives themselves fail so often that I don't want to use them anymore. I rip CDs and DVDs, and for old software that's still on CDs (all of which is currently for computers that are too old to have SATA), I make bin/cue images and load them with Daemon Tools. For those old computers, I guess the next option would be to mess around with audio drivers so I can use digital audio through an IDE to SATA bridge (SATA drives don't have the analog audio cable to get music in games, but Daemon Tools has only failed on one motherboard with AC'97 audio so far - old...
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