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lti
Badcaps Legend
Last Activity: 04-22-2025, 10:11 PM
Joined: 05-11-2011
Location: Windsor, Colorado
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  • I went crazy a little over a month ago and bought new bleeding-edge hardware to run Linux as my main system. Amazingly, it actually works.

    CPU: Ryzen 7 9700X
    Motherboard: MSI Pro X870-P WiFi (the cheapest thing available with a PCIe x4 slot and the amount of USB ports I wanted, and it's still almost $300)
    RAM: 64GB DDR5-5600 (Crucial base model - JEDEC and XMP timings are identical )
    GPU: Integrated (yes, really)
    Storage: 2TB WD SN850X, 8TB HDD pulled from the other system, LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray drive (I haven't loaded that custom firmware yet...
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  • I've settled into running EndeavourOS now. I haven't had it on my old desktop long enough to see if it's stable, but aside from Firefox having most of its hardware acceleration "force disabled by glxInfo" (a common thing in Arch), it performs well. It even runs good on bleeding-edge hardware (which is why I said "old desktop").
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  • Kemet and Wurth have kits, but the values in the kits don't always make sense.

    I haven't seen many Elna caps since Taiyo Yuden bought them.
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  • On the Abit, it looks like the two closest to the AGP slot are connected to 5V from the PSU. FR would also work there. Depending on what the original caps were, they might even work for all six locations.
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  • I'm on Windows 10 primarily. I wanted to be on Linux by now, but every distro I've tried seems to be broken in different ways on my main desktop. They all work fine on other computers, so I don't know what's going on. The last one was Mint 22, which locks up randomly (requiring me to hold down the power button to shut it off). I really don't want Windows 11, so I'm going to have to figure out what's wrong or "just buy a new one" (which will never see Microsoft software). My plan now is to run Linux on my main desktop and have my laptop dual-boot Linux and Windows 10 (maybe 11 if I need...
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    Last edited by lti; 01-04-2025, 10:22 AM.

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  • I haven't seen them either, but I have seen fake "Cat6" cables that weren't twisted pair. The ISP-provided cables are at least legitimate Cat5e and have no problem handling gigabit. I wouldn't be surprised if there were Amazon scammers selling cables with only two pairs and four dummy wires (empty plastic tubes to fill the RJ45 connectors for looks) labeled "Cat8" or something else that doesn't exist.
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  • There's a lot of cool stuff here. I haven't had a chance to mess around with computer stuff for a while. I would need to buy more stuff (starting with a spare power supply for testing), find a place to store it, and answer questions from people who just want to scrap everything that won't officially run Windows 11.



    I see some damage on the side of the Voodoo 3 chip, so it's good that it still works....
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  • I've heard that lower-power CPUs are also affected (even the "35W TDP" parts ending in T - note that they temporarily run at higher clocks and higher power).

    I've already made posts about 12th-gen parts feeling a little off (primarily random 1-2 second freezes - I initially thought it was just my work laptop, but I've found other computers with the same weird quirk). Even then, I thought that if I suddenly needed a new computer, I would get a Ryzen. Today, I'm glad that my newest computer is from 2020.
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    Last edited by lti; 08-04-2024, 05:44 PM.

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  • I had Linux installed on the new drive (the failing one still had Windows on it), and only one distro showed any problems. Mint and Lubuntu were fine, and booting Windows off the failing drive was also fine.
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  • I did that (by putting the original failing SSD in the second M.2 slot for Windows and installing Linux on the new drive). It's just that I picked a bad distro. I'm in Windows now on the second drive (or third since I also have an 8TB HDD), but since that old SSD is still counting up bad blocks, I'm going to put Windows back on the new SSD and buy a cheap new one for Linux (and probably go back to Lubuntu, even though this computer doesn't need a lightweight distro).

    Also, Gigabyte sucks at BIOSes, so installing two NVMe drives makes the video error LED light up after the OS has successfully...
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  • I've confirmed that the flash drive works in Lubuntu and Mint. Between that and the weird instability, I see why MX Linux has so few users.

    I feel like going back to Windows temporarily (by cloning the failing SSD onto the new one) until I figure out what's wrong with Mint (or just use Lubuntu, even though this computer doesn't need a lightweight distro). Also, I forgot about the rest of the video software that I use. I need to find something to replace Avisynth and VirtualDub. I do too much stuff on this computer.

    As long as I still have time to edit, I will add that...
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    Last edited by lti; 07-15-2024, 10:54 PM.

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  • I found this thread again while I was looking for something else, and I was already thinking of installing Linux on my main computer. Then I noticed the number of bad blocks on my SSD climbing, so I got a new SSD and installed Linux. I used MX Linux, and it feels a little flaky. I've already seen random background stuff segfault (only visible when I was looking through dmesg for something unrelated). Unfortunately, Linux Mint ran poorly (at least when booted from random cheap flash drives - I didn't try installing it). Video was really choppy, even when simply moving windows around. I checked...
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  • That's how I adjusted them this time, and I used a plastic screwdriver both times. This was a different pair of receiving headphones (she impulse bought a replacement when the power switch failed instead of having me replace the switch), so I guess the original headphones were tuned a little off....
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  • I finally got to look at these. The static was only in the right channel, and the problem was my fault. When I did the original LED bypass hack, I messed with those two coils. However, I marked their original positions, and turning the 2.8MHz coil back to its original position got rid of the static. The 2.3MHz actually had slightly shorter range with the coil in its factory setting, so I adjusted it slightly from factory. I guess I don't need new LEDs, but it would be nice to fix it right. There's currently a 100 ohm resistor bridged across the bad LED (which still lights, but it has high internal...
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  • Is that your board? Having two of the class D amp filter inductors circled looks odd. If that is your board, it looks like there are multiple blown caps (at least one), but it's hard to tell with that glue on top.
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  • I remember that I did a lot of cleaning and resoldering after I took those pictures. The LEDs had a higher forward voltage than standard 940nm LEDs, and I was never able to see light from 940nm LEDs either. It seems intentional to use a shorter wavelength either for show (Sony's marketing pictures also show the dim red glow) or so Sony could save a cent on an indicator LED.

    They are using two FM oscillators at 2.3MHz for the left channel and 2.8MHz for the right channel. That appears to be a common design for IR wireless headphones, but older units used a dedicated IC (probably discontinued...
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  • Sony MDR-IF245R transmitter LED replacement

    I'm looking at the transmitter from these wireless headphones because the range is too short. One of the LEDs failed many years ago (nine years ago - I found pictures that I took then) and was simply bypassed to make them work again, but it seems like the range has been degrading since then. They're near-IR LEDs (I can see them dimly lit red, so they aren't the standard 940nm), and I haven't been able to find the actual wavelength. Does anyone here happen to know what replacement LEDs I should use? Maybe I can adjust the transmitter was well while I'm in there, or there's another fault. I should...
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  • I think the CD player was suggested as a known good reference and not a convoluted attempt at ripping.

    I have a similar device with a PCM2902 clone, and its line in is detected as a microphone. I've just found an application note from TI that acknowledges this, and it states that Windows adds its own amplification in software. In addition, I noticed that Windows 10 defaults to mono recording, and it has to be switched to stereo every time the interface is plugged in.
    [URL]https://www.ti.com/lit/an/sbfa020/sbfa020.pdf?ts=1714815545344&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.ti.com%252Fproduct%252Fde-de%252FPCM2900C[/URL]...
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    Last edited by lti; 05-04-2024, 12:35 PM.

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  • Seagate drives normally have huge raw values for read and seek error rates while being perfectly healthy (aside from a few failure-prone models).

    I never noticed a difference between CrystalDiskInfo and other SMART monitoring tools.
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  • I've also run into unusually small caps from these weird off-brands. Sometimes they measure close to their rated capacitance, and sometimes they measure 15-20% low (still in spec, but barely). The worst part is when the PCB and chassis were designed specifically for the oddball cap that's smaller than anything from a reputable manufacturer.

    Are they the Chongx caps with "vent" misspelled? There are claims that they're counterfeits of the real Chongx, which is sad. They might be worth trying if the voltage in the circuit doesn't go too close to 35V.
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