Eufy Floodlight Cam 2 Pro Dead. Power Supply issue...

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • KYBOSH
    Badcaps Veteran
    • Oct 2011
    • 581
    • Unknown

    #1

    Eufy Floodlight Cam 2 Pro Dead. Power Supply issue...

    I have a floodlight-security camera that recently died on me.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	eufy-camera-edited.jpg
Views:	369
Size:	128.7 KB
ID:	3300219

    its hardwired to 115v po115v outlet. One evening it simply died. After some troubleshooting (ensuring it had power and ensuring the electronics were actually functional by supplying 5v via usb port) i realized the power supply must be the issue. The supply was noticably warm to the touch even though it was not powering anything.

    Trying to understand what i was up against i went looking for others with similar issues and anyone who might have attempted a repair. While a few ppl have had the issue inhave found nothing in the way of an attempted repair. The only teardown pics i could find wad the FCC filing of the device.

    https://fccid.io/2AOKB-T8423/Interna...Photos-5339367

    In it you can see the virgin power supply PCB
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Screenshot_20240701_084701_Chrome.jpg
Views:	373
Size:	539.0 KB
ID:	3300218

    as well as it covered in a protective resin (likely to protect it from the elements).

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Screenshot_20240701_084713_Chrome.jpg
Views:	375
Size:	675.0 KB
ID:	3300220

    My question is... is there an easy way to remove this coating so i can have a look at the board underneath and possibly try to repair it?

    Thanks in advance
    Attached Files
  • stj
    Great Sage 齊天大聖
    • Dec 2009
    • 30944
    • Albion

    #2
    you need to poke it to see if it's hard epoxy or some type of silicone,
    if it is epoxy you can still remove it in small areas with a heat gun and a screwdriver usually.

    Comment

    • CapLeaker
      Leaking Member
      • Dec 2014
      • 8020
      • Canada

      #3
      Looks epoxy and solid to me, problem is you need to get the board out of the housing.

      Comment

      • KYBOSH
        Badcaps Veteran
        • Oct 2011
        • 581
        • Unknown

        #4
        I'll give it a try soon after i get the replacement delivered.
        Assuming the psu is inaccessible (sealed in exppy) i wonder if ai could refit this unit with another (external) power supply....

        Comment

        • stj
          Great Sage 齊天大聖
          • Dec 2009
          • 30944
          • Albion

          #5
          if you can extract the board maybe by deforming the plastic or running a thin blade or shim around it, you may find there is no "stuff" on the underside.
          that would simplify things because you could just dig out and replace any small electrolytic caps and see if it starts

          Comment

          • KYBOSH
            Badcaps Veteran
            • Oct 2011
            • 581
            • Unknown

            #6
            Well I was able to open up the case tonight.
            The "potting compound" is silicone based I believe. Not terribly difficult to remove but it will take a while being patient and methodical as not to damage any components.
            I was not able to spot any places on in the gel that was burned or discolored which would give me a clue as to the component that may have faltered.
            I would love to simply replace the power supply with something else out of my bin but the wires coming out of the output tells me that the LEDs are controlled/powered seperately somehow. Possibly to change it color temperature.
            I will check YT to see if anyone has had any luck in repair something like this here. Any additional advice/encouragement would be greatly appreciated.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by KYBOSH; 07-08-2024, 10:03 PM.

            Comment

            • KYBOSH
              Badcaps Veteran
              • Oct 2011
              • 581
              • Unknown

              #7
              Click image for larger version

Name:	20240709_011410.jpg
Views:	374
Size:	2.29 MB
ID:	3305475 i went for it tonight. Was pretty easy to remove the silicone. Uses a metal splunger raking care not to nick any of the SMDs on the board. Fuse was good but the MOV (varistor) maybe dead as it didnt read anything via DDM. Will check deeper in the morning.

              Comment

              • stj
                Great Sage 齊天大聖
                • Dec 2009
                • 30944
                • Albion

                #8
                movs are not supposed to read anything, they go short when you go over the marked voltage.
                try changing the electrolytic caps

                Comment

                • CapLeaker
                  Leaking Member
                  • Dec 2014
                  • 8020
                  • Canada

                  #9
                  Look for a short. You said your PSU is hot, but doesn’t power anything.

                  Comment

                  • KYBOSH
                    Badcaps Veteran
                    • Oct 2011
                    • 581
                    • Unknown

                    #10
                    Originally posted by stj
                    movs are not supposed to read anything, they go short when you go over the marked voltage.
                    try changing the electrolytic caps
                    exactly right stj. It was a late night and i wasnt thinking straight. The caps locap great but I will pull them out of circuit later to check them.

                    Originally posted by CapLeaker
                    Look for a short. You said your PSU is hot, but doesn't power anything.
                    I am finding a few smd caps and resistors reading shorted near those ICs marked AZTDFB but i am not seeing anything online to help me ID them. I lifted on of the caps to ensure it wssnt actually shorted and it wasnt.
                    Attached Files

                    Comment

                    • KYBOSH
                      Badcaps Veteran
                      • Oct 2011
                      • 581
                      • Unknown

                      #11
                      Hey! I finally got to use my FLIR ONE I bought last year. Bought it JUST for instances like this.
                      Problem found. Shorted Cap! Removed it and nothing else shows as shorted anymore. Very happy about that!
                      CapLeaker Thank you for that trigger word (HOT). I initially thought it was hot bcos the floodlight was running before it died and the heat I was feeling was residual from its operation. This may have been partly true but it dawned on me (after your suggestion) that is was still warm LONG after it should have cooled down.

                      The cap is a 1206 and reads about 10-11µF (determined from the other cap that wasn't shorted).
                      I cant remember if I have a kit of these caps but most likely I dont. I'll check some part boards have laying around to see if I can scrounge something up.
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by KYBOSH; 07-09-2024, 10:23 PM.

                      Comment

                      • CapLeaker
                        Leaking Member
                        • Dec 2014
                        • 8020
                        • Canada

                        #12
                        Voltage injection combined with thermal imaging works good, but so does 99% IPA. At least you found the problem, as others may have the same issue. Just make sure you put a good replacement cap in it. Good work!

                        Comment

                        • KYBOSH
                          Badcaps Veteran
                          • Oct 2011
                          • 581
                          • Unknown

                          #13
                          Originally posted by CapLeaker
                          Voltage injection combined with thermal imaging works good, but so does 99% IPA. At least you found the problem, as others may have the same issue. Just make sure you put a good replacement cap in it. Good work!
                          Thanks so much! I was really nervous about this one due to my inexperience with potting.
                          regarding voltage injection ....i need to take time to study and practice this technique as i ihave seen it done (on videos) but have never done it.

                          Comment

                          • CapLeaker
                            Leaking Member
                            • Dec 2014
                            • 8020
                            • Canada

                            #14
                            Originally posted by KYBOSH

                            Thanks so much! I was really nervous about this one due to my inexperience with potting.
                            regarding voltage injection ....i need to take time to study and practice this technique as i ihave seen it done (on videos) but have never done it.
                            I use it quite a bit. Most of the time I use 99% IPA, even so I have a flir thermal imager. The Flir can be a gods send device too. That’s why I own one. You need a proper bench power supply and that is a very important part, as you don’t want to damage stuff with these cheap gizmos. Another way to find shorts is with something called a Leakseeker 89. I think you got enough to things about. Lol

                            Comment

                            • KYBOSH
                              Badcaps Veteran
                              • Oct 2011
                              • 581
                              • Unknown

                              #15
                              Originally posted by CapLeaker

                              I use it quite a bit. Most of the time I use 99% IPA, even so I have a flir thermal imager. The Flir can be a gods send device too. That’s why I own one. You need a proper bench power supply and that is a very important part, as you don’t want to damage stuff with these cheap gizmos. Another way to find shorts is with something called a Leakseeker 89. I think you got enough to things about. Lol
                              Thanks for the tip about the Leakseeker. I'll look it up tonight. I have a proper power supply already (love it). I have everything needed to master voltage injection except the experience of doing it. I'll sitdown with a few parts boards and some YT videos and find my way around it one of these weekends.

                              I got the camera up and running. Did actually have some quality caps i sourced from Mouser a while ago. 1206, 16v, 10uF. Camera fired right up after i resoldered some wires that were disconnected during the depotting process.

                              Speaking of the potting. Should i leave the PS naked or find something to reseal it?
                              i cant think of anything off the shelf that would cover as well, come off as cleanly or not cause some sort of corrosion to the board.

                              Comment

                              • stj
                                Great Sage 齊天大聖
                                • Dec 2009
                                • 30944
                                • Albion

                                #16
                                i have some chinese stuff called 705,
                                it's a clear rubber in liquid form - comes in a tube and over 24hours will set pretty hard.

                                Comment

                                • KYBOSH
                                  Badcaps Veteran
                                  • Oct 2011
                                  • 581
                                  • Unknown

                                  #17
                                  Originally posted by stj
                                  i have some chinese stuff called 705,
                                  it's a clear rubber in liquid form - comes in a tube and over 24hours will set pretty hard.
                                  New 705 High Temperature Clear Silicone Rubber Sealant Adhesive Glass Glue Q2Q9 https://www.walmart.com/ip/6288712437

                                  This one?
                                  Attached Files

                                  Comment

                                  • sam_sam_sam
                                    Badcaps Legend
                                    • Jul 2011
                                    • 6025
                                    • USA

                                    #18
                                    Run the device for several days then let it get back to room temperature again and I might even do this several times before I would repotting it again because I have thought that something was fixed until I tournament the device and try to make it fail again if that does not work then I consider it repaired and then would repotting it again

                                    Comment

                                    • KYBOSH
                                      Badcaps Veteran
                                      • Oct 2011
                                      • 581
                                      • Unknown

                                      #19
                                      Originally posted by sam_sam_sam
                                      Run the device for several days then let it get back to room temperature again and I might even do this several times before I would repotting it again because I have thought that something was fixed until I tournament the device and try to make it fail again if that does not work then I consider it repaired and then would repotting it again
                                      You know ... this a good idea. I'll admit i usually never put a device through its paces after a component level repair like this. Usually button it up and put it back into service. I'll run it this weekend with extended period to verify. Thanks for the tip!

                                      Comment

                                      • sam_sam_sam
                                        Badcaps Legend
                                        • Jul 2011
                                        • 6025
                                        • USA

                                        #20
                                        I generally speaking I torture test devices that I plan on using it in a piece of equipment that I want it to reliable then I will really torcher test the hell out of it just to make sure that it is really repaired

                                        Comment

                                        Related Topics

                                        Collapse

                                        • Soulzink
                                          Samsug washing machine. Power supply DC41-00189a board issue
                                          by Soulzink
                                          Hi everyone,

                                          I am trying to fix a samsung washinmachine power supply main board.
                                          I already replaced it with another one to fix the machine but i want to try understand the issue with the old board.
                                          Therefore i hope to be able to get some help to explain what to check in order to troubleshoot.
                                          The power supply board reference is the following: DC41-00189a
                                          I have followed one thread (https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...ingmachine-rel...
                                          04-19-2025, 06:26 AM
                                        • Tynan Dill
                                          Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?
                                          by Tynan Dill
                                          I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.

                                          Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.

                                          I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.

                                          The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.

                                          With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.

                                          Assuming...
                                          11-22-2024, 01:46 PM
                                        • Cookybaby
                                          Samsung UN60ES6500FXZA Power Supply Issue
                                          by Cookybaby
                                          Hello Everyone, this is my first post and I am excited to be a part of such a great community. I've been reading these forums for awhile and there really is some good friendly people here. No bashing and being rude like 90% of other forums Ive been to. Lets get to the good stuff.

                                          I have two years of college in Electronics Engineering Technology. Ive been tinkering with electronics sine about 1990. I know enough just to be dangerous, so be gentle.

                                          Make: Samsung
                                          Model: UN60ES6500FXZA
                                          Power Supply P/N: BN44-00525A

                                          Symptoms: The TV was...
                                          08-20-2023, 12:26 PM
                                        • lp20th
                                          Samsung Plasma TV Power Supply Issue
                                          by lp20th
                                          I have a vintage 2008 Samsung 50” Plasma TV, Model code PN50A550S1FXZA with a power supply part number BN44-00222A. I repaired the power supply board several years ago finding a couple of cold solder joints on the back side of the board and it's worked great up until now. Recently a fried sound occurred with the smell of burnt electronics and the TV shut down. Trying to turn it back on yielded the typical relay clicking with no TV boot up. Upon investigation, removing feeds to the other boards within the TV it was found that disconnecting the logic board from the power supply allowed the...
                                          11-28-2023, 10:28 AM
                                        • handsworth
                                          TCL 43S431 Backlight issue or Power Supply
                                          by handsworth
                                          I was wondering if anyone else has come across this problem. What was the problem?, and was it solved. I recently picked up 2 of these tvs and both initially diagnosed as bad backlights. When turned on, the backlights flash the red logo screen. Sound and an image is clear using a flashlight. So I buy 2 sets of leds. When they arrive I take one tv apart and test the leds before removing them. OMG they all work. but I put the new ones in anyway. So I think its the power supply. I swap PS from one to the other and same results. Now here is the issue and really confused me. I reset the tv using...
                                          10-16-2024, 04:29 PM
                                        • Loading...
                                        • No more items.
                                        Working...