The simple answer is "yes". Any replacement needs to have a suitably low ESR spec and has to be in a psychical form that can be mounted in the original PCB position without adding much connection inductance.
Surface mount ceramics and low ESR tantalums are most commonly used.
Tantalum capacitors are a type of electrolytic capacitor.
Maybe there are polymer aluminum capacitors that are suitable.
The original nec tokin part is a conductive polymer tantalum electrolytic capacitor.
I doubt that any type of radial aluminum electrolytic capacitor will work properly.
Good day to all,
Can you help me? I have Toshiba satellite L645 laptop, the problem is it wont power up, his power indicators are blinking only, what should be his problem? his main board is HannStar J MV-4 94V-0
thanks for your answer rievax_60,because i have lots of solid caps 2.5v 820uf from a desktop motherboard,but is it advisable to wire those caps(solid caps 2.5v 820uf) to the circuit where the nec\tokin cap soldered and i will look for space on the laptop to palce those caps that is wired to the nec\tokin?
thanks for your answer rievax_60,because i have lots of solid caps 2.5v 820uf from a desktop motherboard,but is it advisable to wire those caps(solid caps 2.5v 820uf) to the circuit where the nec\tokin cap soldered and i will look for space on the laptop to palce those caps that is wired to the nec\tokin?
If I understand you correctly, you want to run wires to where there is space for these capacitors?
As another member discovered, even a few milimeters of wire will add too much series inductance. Its unlikely to work.
Good day to all,
Can you help me? I have Toshiba satellite L645 laptop, the problem is it wont power up, his power indicators are blinking only, what should be his problem? his main board is HannStar J MV-4 94V-0
Hey, I have the same laptop. (It isn't working, but for a different reason)
Which lights are flashing?
If I understand you correctly, you want to run wires to where there is space for these capacitors?
As another member discovered, even a few milimeters of wire will add too much series inductance. Its unlikely to work.
ok,but still i will try and lets see what happens,
Another one here. Toshiba Satellite L355, came in for cleaning only at first, but i quickly figured out there was more to it. Owner reported it crashed or shut down after a few minutes at most.
Even after cleaning (vents were completely clogged with dust) and replacing paste, i couldn't get it to even show anything on the screen with only the adapter plugged in, but worked fine on battery. Then i spotted the NEC/TOKIN 0E907 and remembered this thread.
Replaced with 6 tantalum caps, 3 per side. 4x 220uF 2v, 2x 100uF 2v. Laptop runs great, owner happy, me with $$ in my pocket.
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
Hey everyone; i have a unique one here: I removed the keyboard to disassemble an A205 (has/had an OE128) and after soldering in 4x330uF tantalum caps (everything seemed fine) put it back together. the A205 boots up fine, no buzzing etc but the keyboard is freaking out now.. buttons are unresponsive, the "up" arrow is constantly pressing itself etc etc... any ideas anyone?
Good day Guys i have m200 toshiba and i encountered same problem of this but i fix this by replacing the nec/tokin with the tantalum caps.and after a long time of using my laptop i happens again but now when i power up the laptop it goes Black screen display and the led indicator just lights up but nothing else.it's NO DISPLAY now..need help guys.
Hey guys, I have two L300s coming soon. One powers on then off (presumably tokin), the other has an "unknown fault" (guessing it's probably tokin as well, but I'll be changing it eitherway).
What are the best values to change the caps for? I'm thinking of going for the 4x or 6x tantalum route. Is it completely safe to do this?
Thankyou all very much in advance, I'll post a few updates/pictures when they arrive!
EDIT: Also has anyone had a repair fail on them again, except for people who just replaced it with another 0E128?
Bump, got one today, it has the 0E907 cap. Am I best replacing it with 4x220uf instead of 4x330uf?
Also that thing was a bitch to pull off, left scratches all around it on the PCB, but nothing too major. For anyone having trouble with the last few layers - use a sewing needle and slide it under the sides where it's raised slightly. Pretty much just peels off
As dead as it is in here, I figure this may help somebody. I'll be replacing the first NEC Tokin with 2x 220uF 2.5v 9mOhm caps and 2x 330uF 2.5v 15mOhm caps, for a total parallel ESR of 3.7mOhms.
The second one I've ordered some caps for, but in the meantime, I'll try a few higher ESR caps in it and see if I can find what the limit is.
Please help me with my MSI CR400 laptop.No display and only power led and sleep led light up.I know it is the nec tokin problem..I install 4 random tantalum caps from old mp3 player. the laptop is now turning on..i try to reformat it but i cannot finish reformatting as it will suddenly shut down..I decided to remove the nec tokin IC and replace it with tantalum capacitor from other laptop 330uf 2.5v.now it wont turn on.. I also accidentaly solder the tantalum capacitors with out removing the CPU..is this the reason why it doesn't turn on?. now the laptop power led, sleep led and backlight turns on but no display..and the cpu is not heating up
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