FWIW I received the brand new Tapos today and they also have the new low ESR caps instead of the junk AiSHi normal-ESR ones on the failed units, time will tell if they're more reliable

I tried out some Meross plugs but couldn't get the app to work, it kept telling me to connect to WiFi even though it was already connected. So I've caved and bought some more Tapos and will just fix them when they break. But I just checked my last working P100 out of curiosity and there isn't a junk high ESR AiSHi cap like in the OP, instead there's a low ESR cap so maybe they've resolved the problem?

Does anyone know of a smart plug that doesn't have this problem? It seems like it has been reported to occur with every Kasa/Tapo plug. Not really sure what to do about these other than go back to the old analog timers. I only have 1 alive now

I bought an Alpicool C20 fridge, which is a 60W compressor fridge that runs on 12V or 24V, which can come from either an AC/DC adapter from mains (240V here in UK) or a car battery. The fridge itself is really good quality, so I was surprised to find the power supply (DC14.5V, 4.1A) pretty questionable. Despite being 240V/1.5A the plug was fitted with a 13A fuse - concerning, but not all that uncommon for imported chinese electronics here. But when I felt how light the brick was I immediately said hell no and transferred the proprietary connector to a MeanWell GS90A12-P1M brick (this supply is...

The etching is gone so no idea - I had to remove the conformal coating to remove the sticker with acetone and the process of doing that seems to have erased it....

Unfortunately I couldn't make the bypass circuit (turns out the LEDs only run on 0.4V which is insufficient to run an opto from, and logic ground is not tied to system ground). So I troubleshooted the board a bit more and basically ended up ruling out or replacing everything in the VSP signal path except the MCU, and I can't find any other points on the board to determine what setting VSP should be based on the panel LEDs, so I've had to settle for keeping VSP pulled up to 7V permanently. But before I closed it back up I got some more information for other troubleshooters in the future. These...

Update, aircon is working well with the coupling screw issue fixed. I removed the resistor that I was using to pull VSP up to 7V in the hopes that the motor was transmitting a no load fault condition through FG and might actually work now that it is fixed. Unfortunately it appears that that GPIO pin is actually burned out, it's still stuck at +5V, FG is still stuck at +7.8V and VSP is still stuck at +3V.

So I'm building a bypass circuit based on LM317 to read the status from the LEDs on the control panel and pass 3V, 5V, or 7V to VSP accordingly....