Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

[Scenic]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

http://www.ccflwarehouse.com
Or find a monitor with a cracked screen on ebay for cheap. Or just a cracked panel alone.

If you decide not to fix it, I might be interested in the mainboard, as i've got a 223BW with a stone dead one, but otherwise in mint condition.

[waitepb]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi,
I'm yet another person using their first post to thank you guys for saving me well over £100.
My 226BW died the 2 seconds to black death after 47 months of service and I really thought I was heading to ebuyer to order a new monitor but, thankfully, I found a repair video on YouTube and that ultimately led me here.
I bought the recommended caps from the local Radio Spares store here in the UK (just £5 total for 2 x 5 caps, collected from the store) and I did the swap in about an hour. The hardest/scariest bit was prying open the bezel (every "crack" sounded like a break!).
Once past that it was so easy - I only had to disconnect 4 small header plugs, the replacement caps were *exactly* the same size as the originals and I was sooo pleased when the display sprang back into life afterwards.
I just despair at the number of monitors etc. that must get skipped when a little information and a few pounds could bring 'em right back into service.
Anyway, just had to say "thanks" and "keep up the good work".
All the best,
Pete

[jhirsch]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Here's what I would replace. I'm using Panasonic part numbers. Any low ESR caps from the other manufacturers on the 'Good caps list' would also work.

C107 47uF 50v GL 105 °C C640 VENT 5mm D x 10mm H EEU-FC1H470
C110 820uF 25v GL 105 °C C646 VENT 10mm D x 20mm H EEU-FM1E821L *
C111 820uF 25v GL 105 °C C646 VENT 10mm D x 20mm H EEU-FM1E821L *
C112 330uF 25v GL 105 °C C638 VENT 10mm D x 15mm H EEU-FM1E331
C301 680uF 25v GL 105 °C C650 VENT 10mm D x 17mm H EEU-FM1E681
C302 680uF 25v GL 105 °C C650 VENT 10mm D x 17mm H EEU-FM1E681

* Check the height on these. You might have to use EEU-FC1E821S instead

This cap has a low failure rate, but if I ignore it Toasty will get on my case.
C105 150uF 450v GL 105 °C C640 VENT 20mm D x 42mm H EET-ED2W151BA


PlainBill

I recently replaced all the CapXon caps in my Samsung 226BW with the caps listed above with one exception:
Instead of using the 150uF cap noted above (which has a Snap-In termination), I used a Nichicon UPT2W151MRD, which is a leaded version, which is necessary since the part sits at a right angle. This one has a slightly lower ripple current rating than the Panasonic one, but I'm not sure how it actually compares to the original CapXon part. Hopefully this won't be an issue.... Has anybody measured the ripple current for this design?

Thanks to those who solved this problem before me!

[itzikv]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi Guys,

would this caps do the trick?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ht_1868wt_1164
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_500wt_1413

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi Guys,

would this caps do the trick?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ht_1868wt_1164
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_500wt_1413

A general rule of thumb is do NOT order caps from eBay sellers. Most are fakes. Ask yourself why would someone in China be selling Japanese caps?

PlainBill

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi Guys,

would this caps do the trick?

What country do you live in?

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi guys, here's my problem

after some years I got a dancing brightness problem (like the monitor is setting brightness at 80,70,90,70 by itself for a sec) and a couple of 0.5 sec to black... I bought all the caps from a local dealer, I found that 2 of the 3 usual caps were dead I changed all 3, now I have a very little of dancing brightness problem, almost 0... but a 0.5 sec to black if brightness is more than 74...

If I keep brightness at 74 or less the monitor is fine, only a couple of dancing brightness at beginning and only if I set a white page or a page like this forum...

If brightness is more than 74 the monitor go on for 0.5 then the backlight go off, I can see the image only with a lamp on the screen...

If brightness is at 74, I power on then I set brightness at 100 I have no problems, but I have to remember to set the brightness to 74 before turn the pc off, of I have to set it with the lamp on the pc because of the 0.5 to black problem

What is this problem?

Tnx all, nice forum

[jayoung]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Do you by chance have an extra panel or ccfl's that you can use to test with this monitor?

Put a white screen (or mostly white) on the computer, turn off the monitor for a period of time, turn it back on. Does the screen appear pink at the top or bottom?

The reasoning for the questions, is that you may be experiencing ccfl's (one or more) that are nearing the end of their life.

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I tried, is not pink, is white and clear

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

if I set brightness at 100 white pages have the brightness dancing problem...

[jayoung]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

As ccfl's age, they will draw more and more power causing the circuit protection to shut down the monitor to prevent damage. With lowering the brightness, they are drawing less power than the threshold for the protection circuit and allow the monitor to stay on.

It could also be an issue with the wiring to the ccfl's, the connection of the wiring to the ccfl's, or a broken ccfl that could cause the increased power draw. Typically aging ccfl's will show a pink tint on the screen especially white backgrounds.

I have spare ccfl's (known working ones from a different monitor) that I install on monitors in question. If they light and stay on, then I know there's an issue with the ccfl's that are in the monitor. Then it's a matter of swapping out one original ccfl at a time to determine the specific ccfl(s) that is the cause of the issue.

There may be other issues that other members may look toward, but the ccfl's is where I would start if this were mine. It's fairly simple to prove, but only if you have spare ccfl's to use.

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I have no other ccfl

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

what ccfl have to buy?

[budm]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

@Slash: What DC voltage are you getting at that large 450vdc cap, take a reading when the monitor is OFF, ON, Min brightness, 70% brightness. I want to see if the DC voltage drops down a lot when you are trying to get max brightness, it should be quite steady.
Be careful, you are measuring the voltage on the HOT (Line) side of the circuit! isolation transformer should be used.

[jayoung]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I have no other ccfl

Unfortunately, without spares, the only way to know for sure if it's the ccfl's is to dismantle the entire monitor including the panel assembly. This will allow you to look at the bulbs and possibly determine if they are the issue. This is a very delicate process and not recommended for the impatient type as they are fragile and can easily be broken.

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

@Slash: What DC voltage are you getting at that large 450vdc cap, take a reading when the monitor is OFF, ON, Min brightness, 70% brightness. I want to see if the DC voltage drops down a lot when you are trying to get max brightness, it should be quite steady.
Be careful, you are measuring the voltage on the HOT (Line) side of the circuit! isolation transformer should be used.

If I'm right:

use the tester to check DC on the 450 cap in every condition...

what I dont understand is the isolation transformer part, how can I isolate the hot part without isolate the whole monitor?

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

@Slash: What DC voltage are you getting at that large 450vdc cap, take a reading when the monitor is OFF, ON, Min brightness, 70% brightness. I want to see if the DC voltage drops down a lot when you are trying to get max brightness, it should be quite steady.
Be careful, you are measuring the voltage on the HOT (Line) side of the circuit! isolation transformer should be used.

OFF: 3
ON: 315
Min Bright: 309
Max Bright: 308

[benius]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hello, guys!
I'm happy as a bunny because I just fixed my 4 1/2 years old flickering Samsung 226BW following your advices and replacing the bad Capxon caps from the power board.
I have replaced all the capacitors (my first time with the soldering iron ), except the big one, with the following products I bought from RS Online:
1 X 47μF 50V Nichicon UPW1H470MED
1 X 330μF 25V Rubycon 25YXH330MEFC10X12.5
2 X 680μF 25V Panasonic EEUFM1E681
2 X 820μF 25V Rubycon 25ZLH820MEFC10X20
For the 47μF cap I choose the Nichicon PW over Panasonic FC because the later have slightly lower ripple and higher ESR specs than the Capxon GL counterpart, I hope it's OK and nothing goes (I don't really think that, I just wanted to use the smiley ).
Thank you very much for this great website and keep it alive, you're helping a lot of people!

LE: I know it's my first post and I hope I don't break any rule, but if anyone is interested, I have 4 spare capacitor kits (I had to order packs of 10), so if you don't want to buy more caps than necessary I could send you one for 5€ + shipping anywhere in the world (usually 2-3€ for shipping), just PM me.

[budm]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

@slash, Is your AC 230VAC? I expect to see about 325VDC on that cap if the incoming is 230VAC, 230 X 1.414= 325VDC), but the Min and Max numbers seems to be steady enough.

[67Vet]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hello..,

I have a 226BW.., the screen did not illuminate but was working as you can see the desktop if you put a flashlight up to the screen. The power light came on.., but the screen did not. I removed the back and found the usual bursting caps.., both 820's.., so I purchased new caps and replaced these two first. I re-assembled.., now the screen came on after a second or two.., but the screen only stayed on for a second or two.., then went black. So I then replaced the remaining caps.., but still have the same problem.., screen comes on for a second or two.., then goes black. If you cycle the power button.., it does the same thing.., on for a second or two.., then black. I scanned the power board.., looking for solder stragglers that may have dropped onto the board.., as was suggested in this forum.., but found nothing.

I am puzzled as to what to do next.

I was thinking of changing the two 820's.., wondering if they could be bad.., just not sure what to do next.., would greatly appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks for any input offered.