Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
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There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.- ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
- Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
- 16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
- 1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
- Windows 10 Pro x64
- GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job)
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
I'd just like to say a huge thank you to EVERYONE in this thread.
huge.
HUGE.
Everyone here helped me with getting my 3 year old 226BW back up and running after flickering (probably really close to a seizure there at the end) at power on for about a week.
From the part numbers to the multiple parts vendors (Digi-Key).
Opened up the monitor and checked for what everyone was describing, and there they were. The 2 820's and the 330 were bulged at the top, all caps were CapXon btw.
Two day wait for the parts from Digi-Key and the 3 bad capacitors are sitting right next to my working 22" monitor.
So, thank you everyone.
You're awesome.
-TomComment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
I'd just like to say a huge thank you to EVERYONE in this thread.
huge.
HUGE.
Everyone here helped me with getting my 3 year old 226BW back up and running after flickering (probably really close to a seizure there at the end) at power on for about a week.
From the part numbers to the multiple parts vendors (Digi-Key).
Opened up the monitor and checked for what everyone was describing, and there they were. The 2 820's and the 330 were bulged at the top, all caps were CapXon btw.
Two day wait for the parts from Digi-Key and the 3 bad capacitors are sitting right next to my working 22" monitor.
So, thank you everyone.
You're awesome.
-TomThere are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.- ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
- Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
- 16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
- 1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
- Windows 10 Pro x64
- GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job)
Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Hi, just wanted to let you know that I popped up my 226BW, I saw the caps and wasn't sure of the specs. I found this thread an ordered a couple of new ones from mouser. Just replaced the three close to the inductor. Now the screen works perfect again.
I took some images of the steps in my replacement procedure and if any one needs them for something I am glad to share.Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Images in jpg format need to be smaller than 2000x2000px and 3.81MB.
Shouldn't be an issue most of the time though.Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Hey,
i got the same problem!
I life in Germany and i cant find a 820uf 25v cap on the german net to buy.
Is there an other option to fix the 226bw? could i just use 2x 820uf 35v or 2x 1000uf 25v.
I found the little 330uf 25v. ( http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/4...45812&ref=list )
The 2 other caps (680uf 25v are looking perfekt)(but there available)Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Hey,
i got the same problem!
I life in Germany and i cant find a 820uf 25v cap on the german net to buy.
Is there an other option to fix the 226bw? could i just use or 2x 1000uf 25v.
I found the little 330uf 25v. ( http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/4...45812&ref=list )
The 2 other caps (680uf 25v are looking perfekt)(but there available)There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.- ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
- Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
- 16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
- 1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
- Windows 10 Pro x64
- GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job)
Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
you could have used 16V caps instead, as they're on the 13V rail.
http://www.reichelt.de/?ACTION=3;ART...91;PROVID=2402
oh and by the way.. just goes to show how expensive conrad is in comparison.. (same cap, same values)
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/421932/
the output voltages are printed on the PCB
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...4&d=1296137292Last edited by Scenic; 03-07-2011, 05:58 AM.Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Hello all,
Another Samsung 226bw with bad cap problems. It has been ongoing for a few months but I've not had the time until now to try and fix it. Yesterday it took 3 hours for the monitor to finally warm up so that was the last straw. Opened it up, figured out which caps I had and what to replace them with from the info contained in this helpful thread.
I just placed an order at mouser.com for the following:
Mfr. #: 1 x EEU-FC1H2R2
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 2.2UF 50V ELECT FC
Mfr. #: 1 x EEU-FM1H220
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 22UF 50V FM RADIAL
Mfr. #: 1 x EEU-FC1H470
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 47uF 50V
Mfr. #: 1 x EEU-FM1E331
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 330UF 25V ELECT FM
Mfr. #: 5 x EEU-FM1E821L
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 820uF 25V ELECT FM
Decided against replacing the big 150uF cap at position C105 as it looks to be in fine shape, and considering only replacing the five 820uF and one 330uF caps as they are the only ones that are bulging at the top... ordered the rest just in case.
Picture of my board below.
Will post with results when I complete the repairs. This is my first time soldering anything, wish me luck!Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
I am experiencing a similar problem with my 226BW(S Panel).
It's not exactly the same,it doesn't go black and it doesn't function properly when it's heated.In my case,there are lines and boxes all over the monitor flickering very rapidly and it's more visible on white/"soft" colors.
It started yesterday acting really crazy,constant flickering and I couldn't watch the monitor for more than 5 minutes.This morning it was better,happening once every 5 minutes and at a much lower scale than yesterday.
I was able to find only 2 caps out of 7 in the market,and when I opened it only one of them didn't have a straight top,it was like the ones in the pictures in this thread but with no sign of leaks.The others were fine.I replaced the damaged one but the problem is still here.
I have plugged in an old CRT with a VGA to DVI adapter and a LCD TV and they were fine.I also tried a different DVI cable and power cable.
I will buy all 7 capacitors and change them all just to be safe but I wonder,could something else cause this problem?The other caps seemed ok,but even if I change them I don't think it will help.Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Could be bad soldering on the logic board, or a dirty LCD ribbon. Reseat the ribbon cable between the logic board and the LCD and see if the situation improves.Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Thanks for the reply.I will try it when I open it to replace the caps.Anything else I should check?Is it possible for a cap to be dysfunctional even if it looks ok?Comment
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Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
I opened it once again,I reseated the LCD ribbon,caps are fine,took a look everywhere and it looks fine.I'm am starting to worry about a faulty GPU,even if I connected my LCD TV with a HDMI to DVI cable with no problems.Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Hello all. Thanks for all the help you provided to so many people.
I had the flicker problem on my 226bw, and sent it to a friend who changed the 2x820uF capacitors with 2x1000uF ones. Then when i received the monitor back, i noticed it was dim and yellowish.
Then i googled and come here, bought myself a kit of low esr capacitors and changed myself all the 5 capacitors. To notice that i cant find 820uF capacitors here, so i also used 2x1000uF.
The screen is better, less dim and yellow, but still... hasn't the full image quality of a 226bw.
My question is, can it be due to the change of de 820uF to 1000uF? or should i look for something else ?
Thanks in advance.Comment
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Then i googled and come here, bought myself a kit of low esr capacitors and changed myself all the 5 capacitors. To notice that i cant find 820uF capacitors here, so i also used 2x1000uF.
The screen is better, less dim and yellow, but still... hasn't the full image quality of a 226bw.
2) What do you mean by "full image quality of a 226bw"? Are you using the highest resolution? Reset the monitor to factory defaults?
3) The standard procedure here is to post clear focused pictures of all your boards using the manage attachments functions so the pictures are attached to this forum. Please do not post inline because it slows down the loading of pages.
After you have posted the pictures using manage attachments, we can suggest test points.--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Thanks for your quick reply !
I'm currently not at home, so i cant provide those infos, i will have to open the monitor again and take photos.
By full image quality i mean that "excessive" brightness and white image that we can see in a 226bw, and using 1680x1050.
My main doubt is if the change of 820uF to 1000uF could significantly affect the ccfl power in a way that the screen would appear more dim than normal.
Either way, i'll post photos soon.
Thanks!Comment
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