Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Help with dead Commodore 1802

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    @roadrash.
    get a lamp holder and a REAL 40w lamp.
    poundland should have them.

    then i'll explain how to isolate the power section from the HV/deflection and test the psu on it's own.

    Leave a comment:


  • R_J
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    post#2
    Are you getting any voltage on the secondary of the power supply?
    post#6
    Are you getting any voltages from the power supply? Start by check in for voltage on the main filter cap. C803, then do you have voltage on pins 4 & 5 of the power supply transformer
    I will guess you are not getting any voltages even on the main cap, so it is either R801? 3.3Ω 10 watt resistor is open or the power switch is bad
    Last edited by R_J; 05-23-2019, 09:17 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Checked c813 but i think you meant C814 cos 813 was a ceramic. It looks like a lot of caps are leaking but its just adhesive. I still dont understand what STJ meant about isolating the LOPT and check B+. How do i isolate the LOPT and where is B+ and what am i checking it for?

    Leave a comment:


  • Agent24
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    B+ looks like that 121v rail which should be on, if I read it right, C813. 100uF 150v looks like.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Originally posted by stj View Post
    i would isolate the line output transistor and then see if you have B+ as it should be.

    if this is a philips design then it may have a shorted line-output transformer.
    Sorry STJ can you put this in simple talk. How to isolate LOPT and what should B+ be doing? It is a Daewoo CM-120 made for Commodore.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Originally posted by R_J View Post
    Q402 short between base & emitter is normal, you are measuring the horz. drive transformer, no short between e - c is good, The transistor is likely ok.
    Start by check in for voltage on the main filter cap. C803, then do you have voltage on pins 4 & 5 of the power supply transformer

    The cap I thould could give no start of the power supply would be C806 and maybe C825. Have you checked the board for poor solder connections? Parts like large resistors get hot and over time the solder goes to hell, transformer pin connections also get weak overtime.
    Are you getting any voltages from the power supply?
    The primary side is anything within the white line where the power cord connects to the board
    Checked all you said RJ and everything is OK and those 2 caps are within tolerence. Ice also resoldered many contacts especially around things like the LOPT etc. I cant see any bad looking joints and those that look a bit dull I have resoldered. There is quite a bit of flux on this board but the joints look good.

    Leave a comment:


  • Agent24
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    With something that old, don't forget about cracked solder joints.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    i would isolate the line output transistor and then see if you have B+ as it should be.

    if this is a philips design then it may have a shorted line-output transformer.

    Leave a comment:


  • R_J
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Q402 short between base & emitter is normal, you are measuring the horz. drive transformer, no short between e - c is good, The transistor is likely ok.
    Start by check in for voltage on the main filter cap. C803, then do you have voltage on pins 4 & 5 of the power supply transformer

    The cap I thould could give no start of the power supply would be C806 and maybe C825. Have you checked the board for poor solder connections? Parts like large resistors get hot and over time the solder goes to hell, transformer pin connections also get weak overtime.
    Are you getting any voltages from the power supply?
    The primary side is anything within the white line where the power cord connects to the board
    Last edited by R_J; 05-22-2019, 02:41 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    The transistor Q402 shows a short between the base and emitter when its in circuit. Should I remove it to check it or is this enough? Plea Here is the service manual but remeber this is for a NTSC model and mine is a PAL model. se point out where the primary area is..
    Attached Files
    Last edited by roadrash; 05-22-2019, 02:03 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • budm
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    May be you should also upload the service manual.
    Last edited by budm; 05-22-2019, 12:08 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Thank you RJ,l. I have had a few sucesses recently and it would be nice to sort this one seeing as its posibly something minor causing it. Ive taken some pictures for you so can you point out these 2 caps in the primary to me..Can you point out the Secondary section.
    I really do need to be able to identify these areas now that I am doing so many PSU's now.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • R_J
    replied
    Re: Help with dead Commodore 1802

    It might be a simple as one of the two small caps in the primary, 2.2µf or the 10µf
    Are you getting any voltage on the secondary of the power supply?
    Check Q402 horizontal output transistor and see if it is ok and not shorted. If it's ok its likley just the power supply at fault

    Leave a comment:


  • roadrash
    started a topic Help with dead Commodore 1802

    Help with dead Commodore 1802

    I wonder could someone help me get my old Commodore 1802 monitor working again. This was working perfectlyfor years andthe other day I left it running for a few hours and when I came back it was dead. Ive checked fuses but they are ok so must me a PSU fault.
    There is 240v AC getting into the PCB and I can follow it quite a distance. Visualy looks like nothing is wrong but there is a STR54041 regulator which ive ordered just in case its that.
    I have found and attached a Schematic and i have a service manual but its for the 110v NTSC version.
    thank you
    Attached Files
Working...
X