Wine Cooler CD-110-B

[watergremlin0]

Anyone have an experience with this board? Ive actaully replaced 2 caps on it before. Worked for a few years. However this time around they all seem good. Ive pulled a few and tested they all test in range. Checked a few of the diodes they all seem good. dont see any popped resistors or anything. The light and screen power on however the fans never kick on. Havent found a skematic for this board however my guess would be a component in line with the fan.

[CapLeaker]

I would put the board in and heat it up a little with a hair dryer and see if it works again.

Unfortunately it is impossible to read anything at all from these low res pics. Take some straight shot high resolution pictures from top and bottom an upload them using the attachment function.

[sam_sam_sam]

Does this wine cooler have a temperature display if it does what is the temperature reading on the screen and does the temperature rise or decrease when you put your finger on the sensor or put ice on the sensor and is temperature that is it reporting is correct

[watergremlin0]

Full size pics attached.
Yes it displays the correct temp. The unit has a top and bottom with the same control board. I swapped the boards and everything works as expected. So i know for sure its a component on this board.

[stj]

so is it totally dead or just not powering the peltier plate?

[CapLeaker]

I see some rings, pad lift and a couple of bad looking solder joints?

[watergremlin0]

so is it totally dead or just not powering the peltier plate?

Just not powering the fans it seems. Lights and temp lcd come on

[watergremlin0]

I see some rings, pad lift and a couple of bad looking solder joints?

Rings?

[CapLeaker]

Rings?

Yes. Rings on solder joints. May indicate bad solder joints too
Where does the fan hook up to? Maybe take a resistance measurement where the fan hooks up between both boards.

[watergremlin0]

Fan connect into the top right plugs the red an white 2 pin

[petehall347]

what happened here ?

[CapLeaker]

Fan connect into the top right plugs the red an white 2 pin

could you redo the pics and focus on the bottom of the board instead on the transformers. There area we are looking at is like totally blurred out on the edge.
Where the red plug is, there is a 5w gray looking resistor with blackend legs. Looks like it got really hot? What about that bigger capacitor next to it?

[redwire]

Which connector goes to the fan(s)? They all seem to be just a fan on/off transistor based on doorswitch or maybe temperature.
Other wine cooler repair thread here with Hanny controller boards. Many capacitors fail on these boards and you've only replaced two, big spender lol.
Hanny C-7754E, CD-110-B

[watergremlin0]

Yea that ring was me just doing a quick resoder to get it back on after testing. Ill fix it up more later.
Too more pictures, It doesnt look burn in person its more of a shaddow in the pictures I think. Hence the angles

[watergremlin0]

Which connector goes to the fan(s)? They all seem to be just a fan on/off transistor based on doorswitch or maybe temperature.
Other wine cooler repair thread here with Hanny controller boards. Many capacitors fail on these boards and you've only replaced two, big spender lol.
Hanny C-7754E, CD-110-B

why would I replace all the parts when there not broken. I would rather ID what is wrong and fix that part. Not being cheap its more of a pet project at this point

[redwire]

Scientifically, it's best to troubleshoot down to the component-level and find the problem exactly. This worked to make me a good technician because you knew it was fixed.

But china has made electrolytic capacitors cheap, cost to the penny and lifetime down to the precise year.
For equipment that is running 24/7 or expensive/important, I'll just "shotgun" the power supply, outright replace all electrolytics. People get mad at me for suggesting this, but why?
You are forgetting the cost and time of your own labour to take it apart, troubleshoot, drill down to the exact failed capacitor.
For the $10 I'll spend on top quality capacitors, I replace them all and never need to go in there again. It takes minutes.
Your personal time worth say $50-$100/hour is way more than the parts costs.

[sam_sam_sam]

Scientifically, it's best to troubleshoot down to the component-level and find the problem exactly. This worked to make me a good technician because you knew it was fixed.

But china has made electrolytic capacitors cheap, cost to the penny and lifetime down to the precise year.
For equipment that is running 24/7 or expensive/important, I'll just "shotgun" the power supply, outright replace all electrolytics. People get mad at me for suggesting this, but why?
You are forgetting the cost and time of your own labour to take it apart, troubleshoot, drill down to the exact failed capacitor.
For the $10 I'll spend on top quality capacitors, I replace them all and never need to go in there again. It takes minutes.
Your personal time worth say $50-$100/hour is way more than the parts costs.

I second this recommendation for most switching power supply units and for other devices that rely on having high quality capacitors the cost of capacitors is relatively low in cost for capacitors up to 1000uf and under 100uf I usually replace all of them unless they are well known brands and series if they are used 24 hours a day 365 days a year they will get replaced any way

Because time is money and I personally do not like doing this more than once in 10 years and many hours of continuous heavy use and probably abuse from the power company

Unless you invest in a good quality ESR meter and even then you are not testing it under load and 100uf capacitors especially startup capacitors it not worth the risk of it being damaged or just bad yes I will check them with a ESR meter even if they are slightly higher in value than a brand new capacitor they still get replaced with a new one in most cases a new cost less than $0.10 for one when you buy 100 at a time

Here is a story about why you replace capacitors under 100uf regardless of what your ESR meter tell you I have a line conditioner that has two different value capacitors and they tested good with the ESR meter so I reinstall them and a couple of years later it started doing the same issue it had for the reason I took it apart in the first place it would switch between voltage levels for no apparent reason so when I took it apart this time I just replace both of them and it worked fine for many years until just recently it now has an issue with the ground because the wiring fault light is lighting up on the battery backup I have not narrowed down exactly what the issue is yet but this I have another line conditioner that I have recapped and I put in service so I am not in a hurry

[redwire]

OP seems to have left< I guess he fixed it. Not sure which connector was for the fan(s) to trace it back.

[watergremlin0]

Was just away for the weekend. Just getting back. The fans connect into the red and white ports on the board

[redwire]

The red connector seems to just go to a power resistor and then the 12V rail. The fan is always on?