Sound and Safe into full power - 0.71A.
Just curious how the math works - 100w / 240v = 0.417A, but it shown 0.2A with 100w bulb, and 0.71A without it?...
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You meant something like this - it draws 0.2A, so quite safe to plug directly to the wall without the DBT?...1 Photo
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Wow - knowledge and/or experience is truly power - after changed to a 100w bulb, it powers right up!!
I presumed the bulb lighted up at around 10-20% wattage level at unloaded condition is normal, and safe to remove the DBT?
I did some googling and reckon that some amplifier has protection circuitry to shutdown in under/over current/voltage conditions - presumably this is the case?
And to [USER="137730"]petehall347[/USER] THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!petehall347...
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Will do - is 100W bulb sufficient? If not, how high must it be?
Meanwhile - I done 1 more round of checking and noticed the power regulator, C78M10, has really loose joint, all 3 pins. So I reflowed them, and all the other 3 ICs in the same row. Now, the power relay (and bulb) just clicked once then off, instead of continuously.
Does it mean anything??...
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I have recently gotten some new parts to replace the 2x biggest capacitors on the mainboard and the 3 small ones on the power-board, and added the 4A fuse. I have also sprayed contact cleaner onto the 2 voltage switches, and worked them a bit by sliding the switches left and right. The relay is seal so nothing done there.
I added a series bulb on the live-cable into the power supply in.
On switching on the power supply, I measure some voltages on the "control board" and seems the have the voltages there. When I press the power button on the front panel - the relay started...
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OK, will start doing them ongoing basis.
While waiting for replacement fuse and capacitors, I wanted to put in a 5A (original is 4A) fuse along with a dim bulb tester to power up and see if the power relay still clicking off and on without the CD player connected.
Is it safe to do?...
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Carver CM-1090 - Power relay clicking on & off, then fuse blown after 20-30 seconds of power cycling.
I gotten a Carver CM-1090 amplifier from a friend who has kept it in storage for decades. Opened it up, thick layer of dust cumulated everywhere. Vacuumed it semi-cleaned, and blown off as much as possible the remaining dust. This is a 220V version.
On initial powered up with nothing connected - it works with all the lights and button indicator lit up as pressed, etc. I then powered off, connected a CD player into the CD RCA input and powered it on. It seemed to work for a short while and when I turned the volume up and down to see the the VUs works, the power started to clicked off...3 Photos
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Re: Vintec V160SGB wine chiller - thermostat replacement
Yes, I read in details and gotten a much thorough understanding now. With some confidence, I bought one from Aliexpress for a fraction of original Danfoss part costs. I hope it would be a simple "plug and play", otherwise would fiddle with the fine-tuning per the descriptions.
*note the existing part probe length is around 200cm, so a bit harder to find the right part - this is 195cm, the longest I found.
As a backup, I also bought a digital one, and this is a sure thing since...
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Re: Vintec V160SGB wine chiller - thermostat replacement
I found this link too - but it's longer available.
I don't understand the mechanical thermostat specs and therefore having difficulty picking an equivalent part. There are many in Aliexpress, but they are labelled WDF-XX or WPF-XX, etc which I do not know what they mean..
Do you, or anyone here know?...
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Re: Vintec V160SGB wine chiller - thermostat replacement
I have done a mechanical to digital thermostat replacement before. The usual setting is the set the cut-out temperature say, at 12C, and set the cut-in temperature at few degree higher, say at 15C. Then the cycle would be +/- 3C, usually take around 15-30 minutes depending on embient temperature.
Thanks - I google and found a few exact part in ebay. They are expensive as is, and adding shipping cost to Singapore would be too expensive for me.....
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Vintec V160SGB wine chiller - thermostat replacement
My vintage wine chiller, Vintec model# S160SGB, mechanical thermostat failed (not cutting off compressor at set temperature anymore).
After some initial research, this is a Dasfoss 25T65 EN 60730-2 part number.
While this part is generally still available in some online portal, it is fairly expensive. There are many digital thermostat available with some simple rewiring, but I am hoping to preserve it with a with a less expensive mechanical equivalent part.
Anyone familiar can recommend some less expensive equivalent?...
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Re: Wine Chiller - SMPS issue - fluctuating voltages
AP8269 pwm ic finally arrived after 2 weeks. Not very good at SMD component replacement, but managed to get it working after 2 tries.
Tested bare board - working!!! No more fluctuating voltages at both primary and secondary sides.
Installed beck to the chiller - fully functional with fans and lights, and chill to set temperatures much faster.
Here' the summary of this project:
1) Original fluctuating voltages must be due to 1 or more of the electrolytic capacitors bad/weak...
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Re: Wine Chiller - SMPS issue - fluctuating voltages
It is the reflection of camera light. To be sure I just tested with DMM and there's no short.
This chiller has dual zone. In its original operating condition:
- 5V supply to both zone control panel are good, but light button is not functional, and internal fans are not spinning either.
- Lights and Fans are all connected to 12v sockets on this board.
I am not knowledgeable about fluctuating voltages is the reason lights and fans are not functioning. Guess now it's no...
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Re: Wine Chiller - SMPS issue - fluctuating voltages
A small price for ignorance, but a very valuable knowledge gained! Now it clearly explained why pulling out all other components changes nothing, until this unfortunate SBD20C...
Hmm... after restoring R13, and eventually a new AP8269 IC, I would most likely be back to square one then - a fluctuating voltages on the secondary side?...
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Re: Wine Chiller - SMPS issue - fluctuating voltages
Thank you for these information, it super helpful for my education.
And for my further education:
1) B+ and Drain both read 329v from the bridge rectifier. If the IC is working, how does the feedback winding gets its 16v?
2) Vin must be 30v: but the only feed I see is from B+ through R17 & R18, and reads 3.6v, is the 30v generated internally to get started?
In fact, I would extremely thankful if you could briefly describe the sequence of events leading to the startup and normal...Last edited by beetle1303; 09-08-2023, 10:16 PM.
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Re: Wine Chiller - SMPS issue - fluctuating voltages
My joy was short-lived unfortunately...
After soldered in a 22ohm resister, powered up - still exactly the same status: there is still 3.6v input to Pin #3 Vin, but still no voltage output at Pin#7 Vcc, and the CD7 capacitor still 0v...
Looks like PWM IC still not switching, probably dead..., and I've just placed online order the this replacement IC.
If anyone has any clue to possibility of secondary side shorted somewhere, I would be pleased to investigate fully....
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