I have discovered a method for scavenging free desoldering braid. Basically CRT TV's and monitors have a braided wire running around the tube near the degaussing wire. This braid is basically the same stuff as desoldering braid, except it has been tinned. As it is, its useless for desoldering. But, if you take a sanding sponge and run the braid back and forth over the sponge ala "polishing your shoes" it is possible to expose enough copper in less than a minutes time that the wire will wick solder. Its not quite as good as the real stuff... takes just a little bit more time and heat to get it started wicking but once up to temperature it works great.
How to get free desoldering braid...
Collapse
X
-
Tags: None
-
Comment
-
Comment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
Oh yeah, just figured out something else... how to chemically strip the tin. I tried using plain old drain opener to get the job done, basically it wouldn't touch the tin... the acid needs an oxidizer to get the job done.
So I took some Rooto sulfuric acid drain opener and made about a 50-50 solution with water. Then I very sparingly sprinkled in a bit of potassium nitrate into the acid bath. Within 30 seconds the tin was stripped completely leaving nice clean copper.Comment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
Capillary action is what makes the solder flow into the braid. Flux, when heated to form a liquid acts as a void filler to remove air pockets and to clean the braid surface while in emulsion of contaminants. Flux is not needed if you clean properly.Comment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
The flux also distributes the heat and allows the solder to flow up the braid... otherwise, the solder would only wick to the braid being directly heated by the iron.
what braid should look like when being used: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2L4iv...igdnwBeJLDaoM= (pay attention to the second joint at the end...)
I know this by being forced to use fluxless braid before... its useless without adding flux...
liquid rosin is flux (for all intents and purposes) so yes, that would work. as long as it can both clean and distribute heat.Last edited by ratdude747; 03-22-2012, 07:37 PM.sigpic
(Insert witty quote here)Comment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
I know this by being forced to use fluxless braid before... its useless without adding flux...
Ratdude, I have been soldering before you were born and have worked for several Aerospace companies in that time and have had excellent training in that arena. I learned techniques that are used industry wide. You have not the life experience to know that there is more than one way to skin a rat; I mean a cat.Comment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
I know this by being forced to use fluxless braid before... its useless without adding flux...
Ratdude, I have been soldering before you were born and have worked for several Aerospace companies in that time and have had excellent training in that arena. I learned techniques that are used industry wide. You have not the life experience to know that there is more than one way to skin a rat; I mean a cat.
I may be young but i first learned to solder just over 4 years ago, and for the past 1.5 years or so I have been soldering almost every day, honing my skills. I know damn well what does and doesn't work, and for anything major/multilayer, fluxless braid does't.
Why? I've maid the mistake of trying it. it's like trying to solder without flux or fluxed solder... it just doesn't work very well, and for the exat same reason- in order for solder to flow and adhere properly, there needs to be flux somewhere, or else very little solder adheres to the base metal.
In industry, AFAIK, flux is used with the braid somewhere... even the military uses flux on the braid (applied externally).
as for your comment about skinning a rat, yes, there are multiple way to TRY to skin a rat, but only certain ones work. In the world of desoldering, the methods that work best are vacuum sucker/irons/station, fluxed braid, and picks/needles.sigpic
(Insert witty quote here)Comment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
Sure, just try cleaning the area on a motherboard after a BGA chip removal. If you can do it with flux-less braid, without any flux, and without lifting any pads where the BGA chip was - my hat off to you, sir!
Oh, and by cleaning, I mean silky-smooth BGA pads.
Besides, even if you do have all of that experience, many other people don't. So for all intents and purposes, I recommend everyone to use braid with flux because in the end: braid with flux (whether you add the flux yourself or use pre-fluxed braid) is way much easier and less risky to use than flux-less braid with no flux added. When you have customer's shit you don't want to screw up, it's just a no-brainer to add a drop or two of flux.Comment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
I always use flux, for about 35 years now, not worth to damaged the board, parts can be replaced, but board is harder to replace, best not to damage the traces. Good 40watts iron, flux, fine braid copper solderwick. First day of electronics training in school was taught how to solder properly, most people knows the theory well but damages the parts and the boards and causes more problems due to poor soldering jobs, I see that in new tech coming in for the job, first test is to show us how well the person can solder and un-solder parts from the PCB.Last edited by budm; 03-25-2012, 03:30 PM.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
I use flux everywhere except for hot air desoldering where it impedes the process as would be expected. Fluxless soldering is a form of self torture. Sure it can work but flux soldering is always faster and better. The quality improvement, saved time, and reduced damage to the work piece is well worth the time spent swabbing the residue off.
I call BS on the industry wide argument. Flux is industry wide. Non flux is nowhere, nothing but a beginners mistake. Flux is cheap compared to the alternatives like vacuum soldering, inert gas soldering, high failure rate, and working all day wrecking the tools while getting nothing done. I'm not spending a ton of time scrubbing clean copper when a dollop of rosin paste cures all that ails me in places the scrubber can't reach. The only time I scrub copper is when the wire cannot be replaced and time has corroded it so deep that no amount of acid paste can clean it.
Flux! It does a solder good.
As for free soldering braid I'm surprised that noone has mentioned the copper wire we all throw away in bad power supplies. Strip, flux, and desolder. It is consumed faster than real braid and doesn't draw as well but at almost zero cost I can afford to use too much. I don't need to place orders or remember where I put it. Don't forget that the insulation makes a heat resistant handle and pieces of it can be placed on component leads that need to be insulated.Comment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
It's an interesting idea, but I'd argue the point that your CRT-salvaged braid is 'free' after you factor in the time spent un-tinning it and then deciding what to do with the rest of the monitor afterwards..."Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHornComment
-
Re: How to get free desoldering braid...
Some people have more time than money, so to them, all that matters is monetary cost... so in that case, it is psydo-free.sigpic
(Insert witty quote here)Comment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by wnlewisOK. I got the rocker switch figured out thanks to the good advice on this forum.
Now I need to figure out the correct wire to go to the switch from the broiler element and from the oven element.
This is a Whirlpool RDE3340 electric range.
The common wire on the switch appears to have a high temperature insulating material. I am guessing that both the wire to the broiler and the wire to the oven elements also need relatively high temperature insulation. What do I need to look for? The broiler is rated at about 2400 watts.
Where may I find parts... -
by emeskayWe have an Lenovo Yoga 710 15ISK that we use as a secondary laptop. To cut a long story short, around May 2023, while traveling, I connected the laptop into an electrical outlet that was already switched on. Something made a "pfft" sound and the laptop refused to turn on after that. After getting back home, I gave the the laptop for repair to an informal repair person. He replaced the adapter and an internal motherboard part, but after he returned it I noticed that the LCD did not look normal. Essentially, every alternate horizontal line on the screen had gone missing. The laptop was...1 Photo
-
by sam_sam_samI have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy... -
I currently have a customer's vintage fan on the work bench to repair.
It uses an induction motor with 4 poles. One of the poles is open.
I couldn't find the break so i cut off the original wire.
I have measured the other poles and the resistance is about 28 ohms per pole and I measured the diameter of the wire with my digital calipers and it is 0.35mm in diameter.
I need to work out how much 0.35mm diameter enamelled copper wire i need to order for it to be 28 ohms. I have used this calculator and it says i need 160.35 metres.
The enamelled copper... -
by sam_sam_samI was Ollie today which is a close out / surplus outlet store I do not go in there to often because you find things that you should not be tempted by but that is a another story
I saw a small space heater that used a wire type of heater element which I been looking for a while but not really hard mind you but when I saw this I grabbed it I going to go back tomorrow and buy the last one that is like the one I bought today because I need the heater element and the ceramic insulators and more of heat element wire because this one has two different wattage settings one 1300 watts ( tap... - Loading...
- No more items.
Comment