RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

[jondoe]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Nicely done. Is that one of those hot air stations with the giant dildo sized business ends? Mines like that, it's a little awkward

[Dannyx]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Nicely done. Is that one of those hot air stations with the giant dildo sized business ends? Mines like that, it's a little awkward

Mine too

[ReeceyBurger123]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Nicely done. Is that one of those hot air stations with the giant dildo sized business ends? Mines like that, it's a little awkward

Well tbh I wouldn't advise using it as a dildo might not work well not even on your wifey but yeah I see what you mean

[Chungalin]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Well, I have a Samsung UE32F5000AW (UE32F5000AWXZG) with a Sharp LCD cell LK315D3HA9K, and looks like I have the same problem.

Backlight OK. Audio OK. Black image (=inactive panel). 12V input to T-CON OK. Fuse OK. No 3.3V at testpoint, even disconnecting T-CON from panel. No voltages can be measured in T-CON other than the 12V supply. Intersil ISL98602IRAAZ is not abnormally hot.

I'm a bit reluctant to change a QFN40. I've replaced AS15-F, but this one...

Also, this issue is commented in polish, romanian and russian forums. I've understood that there's a variation in this Intersil IC, and that a resistor should be placed or removed depending on a voltage. Reecey, did you need to do this? Where did you buy the new IC? I'm tired of chinese fakes.

Therefore, when replacing ISL98602IRAAZ before first use carefully lift a hot soldering iron one end of the resistor going to ground from pin 16 and enable. If normal voltage is 1.2 volts, then remove it completely, everything will work fine. If it is too low, solder back. This will avoid damage to the controller IC.

[tn245]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

I did one of these not long ago. Got the ic from ebay user m-core. Soldering went a lot easier than I expected. Hot air and plenty of flux. Yes I did have to mess around with the value of the resistor between pin 16 and gnd otherwise 1.2V was wrong. Just tried a few different values until the voltage was about right. The ebay seller was very helpful with this. I was advised not to leave it without the resistor although mine was correct at 1.2V without it. Ended up with a 1M resistor in there but apparently it can vary quite a bit.

[Chungalin]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Being my first QFN replacement, it's been a pain in the ass. Perhaps not the proper tools. IC didn't want to come off with only hot air, neither from top or bottom. Solder tip below and hot air from top, and it came off. For soldering, another pain. My flux is old and low temp, burns too fast. Remember to tin every "pin" before applying hot air.

After all, I try it without panel ribbons. Now there's 3.3V and VCC1.2V is about 2.5V. I understand that I must change the resistor value at pin 16 (FBB2), that is, feedback from Buck regulator 2, so I get 1.2V instead of 2.5V. Which were the instructions that your seller gave you?

[tn245]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Can't remember the exact instructions but it involved trying different values for the resistor and testing for Vcc1.2V. 300K seemed to be a common value but mine needed much higher. You can try with the resistor removed but don't run it for long. I just tried different values of through-hole resistors awkwardly soldered on to test, gradually increasing until my value was about right, then got the correct smd part. Voltage shouldn't be above 1.25V in the end if I remember. It's an 0402 package so tiny like sand. Just have to experiment. As long as you don't run it too long with the wrong voltage it should be ok.

[Chungalin]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

I’ve tried 330kΩ and 560kΩ. The latter gives me 1.25V, which is enough perfection for me. There’s image now and this has been a success after all. I’ll leave the small axial resistor as it is now, I’m very tired of this repair and I don’t plan to fight again with a flea-like resistor.

[amennone]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Good evening and compliments for the forum. I have replaced the IS-98602IRAAZ integrated t-card with RUNTK 5351TP. The situation is as follows: 1v2 voltage is about 2v6 and the screen is still dark. The question is the following if this voltage is not adjusted the screen remains dark? The 3v3 voltage is right. Is it possible to have a photo of the resistance to be modified?
Thanks for the answers and good work.

[amennone]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

:Saluti:

Good evening and compliments for the forum. I have replaced the IS-98602IRAAZ integrated t-card with RUNTK 5351TP. The situation is as follows: 1v2 voltage is about 2v6 and the screen is still dark. The question is the following if this voltage is not adjusted the screen remains dark? The 3v3 voltage is right. Is it possible to have a photo of the resistance to be modified?
Thanks for the answers and good work.

[Chungalin]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Follow pin 16 of ISL98602IRAAZ up to a SMD resistor that is connected to GND. This is the resistor to replace.

[amennone]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Grazie per la tempestiva risposta chungalin , prima di sostituire la resistenza mi interessa sapere se è normale che lo schermo continua a rimanere buio .

[Chungalin]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

I think I disconnected LCD panel from T-CON until voltage was set to 1.2V, to prevent any damage. I guess I tried it briefly before adjusting voltage and screen was still black (=inactive panel, since it's an ASV type panel).

please my brothers, the monolithic switcher
ic806 on my 37inch plasma power panel
17PW15-8 got burnt and i replaced it with the
same ic and still my plasma refused to show
standby red light talkless of powering on. please
what will I do?

Open a new thread with your problem instead of spamming in unrelated threads.

[jondoe]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Would you adam and eve it, I have a broken RUNTK 5351TP sitting on my desk and I still only have a giant crappy dildo style heat gun..... I might have to buy a complete unit to swap out

[diif]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Would you adam and eve it, I have a broken RUNTK 5351TP sitting on my desk and I still only have a giant crappy dildo style heat gun..... I might have to buy a complete unit to swap out

I have ISL9860 on my shelf. I can swap the IC if you need, under a stereo microscope.
Or you could buy small nozzles for your dildo and do it yourself.
Or an opportunity to buy new tools

[jondoe]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

As I do very occasional repairs (I'm in no way qualified) I can't justify the out lay on a better dildo I have a HK 998D 2in1 solder station which in fairness the iron is perfectly good for all jobs, but the dildo end is cumbersome and never quite excites my parts enough to make them leap from the boards with joy. I'll either be sat there heating it forever, cooking everything, or it'll be too hot and melt everything but the solder.

Bad workman blaming his tools and all that....

I've found a 2nd hand board super cheap, I'm just awaiting confirmation on compatibility, should that fall through I may require your stereo dildo action.

[jondoe]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Swapped the TCON board, everything's working fine. I'm going to practice on the old one to see if I can remove the IC without destroying it!

[diif]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Swapped the TCON board, everything's working fine. I'm going to practice on the old one to see if I can remove the IC without destroying it!

Nice one.
I don't know what station you have but I put my temp to 380c and the air flow down. Flux round it to help removal.

[jondoe]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

As high as 380? I was a little nervous to go that high as I'd pop corned some test boards previously, maybe I had the flow too high, will give it another gander.

I have one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-D.../dp/B072QD9G8M nothing fancy!

[Dannyx]

Re: RUNTK 5351TP No Picture Failure

Speaking of temperatures: I mentioned this before at some point in another topic of mine, my buddy keeps his temperatures (iron and air) all the way to the max at all times, regardless of what he's soldering....he claims they're not actually what's shown on the dial of the station, but without an external thermometer I can neither confirm nor agree to this. He may actually be right. I too started cranking my iron to the max lately, noticing my tip sticks to the bloody traces, but not the air - I keep the air to 420c which may sound like a lot, especially by comparison with the 380c you guys mentioned and freaked out over, but I'm doing it "by feel" rather than numbers...I I intend to buy a thermometer just for this purpose once.