As a final update and fix, after going through three bad 'used' T-Con boards (two were returnable) I finally found a good one on Ebay. Replaced T-Con and the TV has been working fine so far. I now have a used main board and power supply up for sale on Ebay (which I purchased and did not solve he problem).
My initial diagnosis of a T-Con board was correct all along, I just kept getting bad parts.
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I went ahead and ordered a main logic board. No change. I guess I'll throw a power supply at it. Probably should have scrapped it and bought a new TV at this point. I'll report back.
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Firmware upgrade made no change. USB exhibits the same symptom (both before and after the firmware upgrade).
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Those caps do look rough. That was a good catch. I took a picture of those caps as close as I could. The second picture is the original posted above, but enlarged. It looks even worse, but I wonder if that could just be the photograph.
Any idea what the value of those caps may be? I'm not sure I'm up to replacing surface mount caps free hand. I worked in component level circuit board repair decades ago (1998) and used a microscope to replace these kinds of parts as well as multi legged chips. I don't have access to that kind of equipment, and my 55 year old eyes aren't what they...
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Seems like there isn't much left other than the main board. I hate just throwing parts at a problem, but should I order and replace the main board? Power supply seem OK?...
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I performed the system reset. No change. Screen eventually goes black after about 15 minutes.
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I'm unfamiliar with how to access the service menu. Would you recommend I just replace the main board at this point?
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I will add, why does the replacement T-Con board give an immediate black screen? Could I have received two bad T-con boards? (Possible, I guess).
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That may be tough, the picture stays normal for up to 30 minutes. Sometimes less, rarely more. It doesn't seem practical to spray freeze for 30 minutes.
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I appreciate the a[FONT=Arial]ttention to this! Thank you!
12V remains at fuse F301 on the T-Con board before and after the picture is lost. It does not fluctuate from a full 12V (12.38 to be exact).
I disconnected the connector from the right side of the T-Con board (viewed from the back) and the picture remains on the right side of the screen temporarily, and eventually goes black (left side of the screen was white, then went black)
I disconnected the connector from the LEFT side of the T-Con board (viewed from the back) and the picture remained on the...
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Attached are pictures of the power supply as well as the whole TV back. I didn't notice any swelled caps....
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Samsung UN60EH6000F Black Screen, Backlight and Sound Good. Power Cycle Returns Picture
[FONT=Arial]I have a 60 inch Samsung UN60EH6000F flatscreen TV. The screen went black a few months ago Sound is good, backlight is good, no menu. I replaced the TCon board with a used board purchased from Ebay. It worked fine for a 3-4 months, then the screen started ‘fading' back. Once again, sound is good, backlight is good, no menu. However, this time the picture looks fine for about 10-15 minutes, then fades back. [B]If I power cycle the TV, the display reappears, for another 10-15 minutes[/B], then fades black again. Repeatable ever time.
I ordered a supposedly ‘new' Tcon...
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