Yep R869 has continuity to the gate of Q604. Also measuring from the top of R613 and Q604 G gives me around 42k ohms.
D618 I basically soldered it upright with the wire connected to the top of the diode (white band) and other end of wire to the end of R611.
R521, and R522 are marked 1000, measuring 100 ohms both.
D652 measures 0.482, OL
Rechecked and resoldered some of the ICs, a trace came off from IC521, but looking on the datasheet it seems to be NC so I don't think it should be a problem.
I just noticed that C691 (The big electrolytic cap near Q661) won't dissipate its charge. I left the board over night and this morning still got a little shock from it.
yes, caps. can bite. I've done that and had one zap me 3 times before it was discharged. worked on it straight after power up. wife thought it was funny.
well it's all matching and thats from those IGBTs that produce the MID right throught to the drivers. I can only wonder now about ic561,562 how cleanly you've soldered those or whether there are any of those pins shorted because the drive signal come from those.
If you can get pictures as good as the last for them. Do you have a jewellers loupe or get really good look at the pins just in case?
1 am in 8m minutes that's my deadline, may not see your reply.
Check from FGND (Vfg) to Vfo, should show about 120-160V operating. More, or negative, is bad and can kill the buffers.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Progress!!! I decided to put back the original IC563 and finally it stays on! So it seems it does run without the Q604 FET.
Now I just need to make sure there are no problems with the buffers before I put them back on.
sounds good. Any particular reason you decided on 563?
I'd like you to try something once it's running. Go into serv tool and get the hours. then on the remote hold the return button to force the tv to reset and start again. I'm looking for it not to start and go 7 blinks. Turn off then turn on and see if it starts normal again.
I had a feeling about the spare that I salvaged from another board and I remember you said that your ic563 survived so I assumed mine could of also and I replaced it back to the original.
I had a feeling about the spare that I salvaged from another board and I remember you said that your ic563 survived so I assumed mine could of also and I replaced it back to the original.
How do you get into serv tool?
page 8-10 in the service manual TC-P50S1. Once you are done with srv-tool, press and hold the return button to force the TV to reset. let me know what happens.
Ive just got one of these--a 50G10 with the same board. The set however--works, but the fault code list logged 4 SOS-7 and one SOS-4, and 13,600 odd hours.
Ive not been able to fault the set--Its run for some hours, but did remove/refit the SC and checked all mounting-screws for tightness....
Strange thing is--for a set with that hours--Its spotless inside, Looks like new, practically no dust or marks/evidence of work--Weird.....
Gawd--The SS and SC run Bloody HOT! Cant keep yer hand on any of the heatsinks after half-hours run....
Ive just got one of these--a 50G10 with the same board. The set however--works, but the fault code list logged 4 SOS-7 and one SOS-4, and 13,600 odd hours.
Ive not been able to fault the set--Its run for some hours, but did remove/refit the SC and checked all mounting-screws for tightness....
Strange thing is--for a set with that hours--Its spotless inside, Looks like new, practically no dust or marks/evidence of work--Weird.....
Gawd--The SS and SC run Bloody HOT! Cant keep yer hand on any of the heatsinks after half-hours run....
never checked the SS but yes, it's amazing they don't burn up sooner! any evidence of the SC being reworked?
I'd be surprised if you found loose screws.
if you run these with no load i.e. just the P and A boards then it will go 4 blink eventually. Maybe after a minute for my V20.
See attached history for mine. Note 6 blink was original fault, the 4 is when I ran it with no sustain boards and the 7 was when things were'nt going well and I killed the buffers.
I never realised I had a 4 blink slip in there until I got this running
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