I wonder if the whole 5 Vsb couldn't be completely ripped out and the PSU modded to be switched on and off via the rear switch. I rarely need to turn my machines off.
atx standard= no hard switch on/off. i tried it, the mobo has to be turned on for the system to do more than spin fans.
He's right. .. Won't work.
Don't have +5v until PSU starts and you need +5vsb to start PSU.
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
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Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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OK, perhaps I should just forget the Seasonic or use it as a hobby project to see if I might get Everell's design to work on it; maybe I will use it after a recap and an Everell mod if that's successful.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a reliable, non-killer PSU, whether or not it needs a recap? I have old equipment so I only need a 300W ATX PSU but it NEEDS to be reliable because I can't afford to have my equipment ruined by a bad PSU.
I had been buying PC Power & Cooling, but after reading here, I think I might have been wasting my money. On the other hand Seasonic, which has a reasonably good reputation here, seems to make some units that are not to be worth the (admittedly little) money either.
I have to recap my old PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool 300 ATX, too, but that'll be another thread and I'll post pics from the beginning.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a reliable, non-killer PSU
Yes.
The one in this thread after you fix it.
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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Probably better idea. Does the unit still power up? As I said before, it may have been a flaw in the design and the returned units "fixed" and re-sold.
I have a small stock of boards, all of which only have the 20-pin connector. The fastest of these boards is a PIII 1000 MHz. You see, I'm old-fashioned. (And, yes, I still have my slide rule, but I only use it for nostalgic reasons.)
Originally posted by 370forlife
Does the unit still power up?
I haven't tried it yet, and now I won't put it on one of my boards, but only on a PSU tester.
Originally posted by PCBONEZ
Yes.
The one in this thread after you fix it.
I'm pleased by your estimate of the PSU's potential, but I have a pretty long time frame for reliability. I need it to run for several years, and unattended for up to six weeks during the summer when I'm far away from the office.
I don't mind fixing it; I'm rather enjoying my new obsession. I haven't been knee deep in fixing electronics since I fixed my Kenwood TS-530S rig in 1983. Nonetheless, I still worry about my fixes until they've run for a while.
I don't mind fixing it; I'm rather enjoying my new obsession. I haven't been knee deep in fixing electronics since I fixed my Kenwood TS-530S rig in 1983. Nonetheless, I still worry about my fixes until they've run for a while.
do you still have that 530?
just fixed up an 830s.
great old rigs.
Seasonics with good caps are excellent PSU's and should easily meet your time frame requirements. Their OEM models [like yours] get cheaper caps than their retail market models but AFAIK the PCB is the same. None of those recommend earlier are guaranteed to be any better than what you already have. That is NOT to say they are bad PSU's but some recapping may be required. Like the one you already have, they are good designs but sometimes have crap caps. Hi-Pro is on/off about cap quality. The ACBEL model has a whole thread devoted to it somewhere in here. It should be recapped. As I recall it has Pce-tur and you'll need lots of those 10mm caps. Of the three the Delta is the most likely to need no upgrades at all.
If you really need that level of reliability you should consider a redundant supply [which will probably require a server chassis]. Those are actually 2 [or 3] removable [hot swap] PSUs in one frame set up such that they share the load but if either one craps out the other is capable of carrying the full load. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=200340919519 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320397951949
[Just examples but EMAC / Zippy are an excellent brand for those. Also Sparkle.]
- !!!! Make sure what ever unit you get has wires to connect to a motherboard. Some are designed for specific cases and have slide in connectors to the chassis instead of motherboard wires. - Also some specialized ones are weird with no 3.3v or no +5vsb or I've even seen one with a 48v rail.
If you use a UPS and you have a PSU with any kind of PFC you need to verify your UPS is a TRUE sine wave unit. The 'simulated' sine wave units are an old cheap design and they don't work and play well with PFC. [Which wasn't common when they were designed]. - The PFC's response to the 'fake' sine wave is to drive voltage in the first PSU stage high and sometimes it's high enough to exceed the voltage rating on the mains caps or to send too much current through something else.
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Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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>>(And, yes, I still have my slide rule, but I only use it for nostalgic reasons.)<<
LOL Me too.
Me Three. - Still got it. - But I forgot how to use it like 25 years ago.
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
-
If you really need that level of reliability you should consider a redundant supply [which will probably require a server chassis]. Those are actually 2 [or 3] removable [hot swap] PSUs in one frame set up such that they share the load but if either one craps out the other is capable of carrying the full load.
I hadn't considered that. I'll check it out, though my old PC Power & Cooling kept the thing running 24/7 for six years, and my other unit has a Sparkle that's been running 24/7 for nearly ten years.
Originally posted by PCBONEZ
If you use a UPS and you have a PSU with any kind of PFC you need to verify your UPS is a TRUE sine wave unit. The 'simulated' sine wave units are an old cheap design and they don't work and play well with PFC. [Which wasn't common when they were designed]. - The PFC's response to the 'fake' sine wave is to drive voltage in the first PSU stage high and sometimes it's high enough to exceed the voltage rating on the mains caps or to send too much current through something else.
Yikes! I didn't know that. Thanks for pointing it out. I do have a UPS; it's an APC Smart-UPS, bought in late 2000. I'll have to check its output.
Originally posted by PCBONEZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toasty
>>(And, yes, I still have my slide rule, but I only use it for nostalgic reasons.)<<
LOL Me too.
Me Three. - Still got it. - But I forgot how to use it like 25 years ago.
Amazingly, there are collectors of old rules, some of which go for several hundred dollars these days. You can find instructions online to refresh your memory if you ever feel nostalgic. I had forgotten how good my eyes used to be! Now I need a magnifier to see the small hairline well enough to get anything like the correct answer.
Yikes! I didn't know that. Thanks for pointing it out. I do have a UPS; it's an APC Smart-UPS, bought in late 2000. I'll have to check its output.
I don't think it says on the unit but if you have the exact model number you can look it up at APC's site. The 'Smart' units I've looked up were true sine wave but there may be exceptions.
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When I said old design I didn't mean old UPS units. Some units may still be being built with those designs. They take fewer parts and are less expensive to build than true sine wave units. In the 'old days' PFC was uncommon in anything other than a server so it was a way to build inexpensive UPCs for home and office use. There wasn't a problem until home and office PCs started to move to PFC type PSUs. Now you have to pay attention.
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On 115v line voltage, it can, but exceeding the input voltage on the PSU is a little less likely. I've seen the input voltage measured [Active PFC, 115 line, simulated sine wave UPS] at 198 volts. Mains caps in PSUs are sometimes 200v caps so that's like a skin'o'de'tooth margin for error and fluctuations in mains voltage could push it over the top. PSUs with 220v mains caps are safer but still maybe iffy. If they have 250v mains caps there is probably nothing to worry about.
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If using 220v mains power it is much more of a problem. [Though at the moment I can't remember why it's worse.]
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When I learned of all this I had to replace 3 of my UPS units. I wasn't too happy about that. Some of my stuff [including one of those 3 units] runs on 220v and 220v UPS units are hard to find in the US.
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Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
-
*Mains caps may not be the 'limiting component' in all PSUs.
It's just the easiest one to see without drawing out the circuit and doing the math.
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
-
Hello All, I have on the bench a couple of PSU's which have some failed Nichicon PL series caps. They didn't "puke" their guts through the top, but instead "diarrhea'ed" corrosive brown electrolyte through the bottom, down the legs and onto the board. On one cap, the electrolyte rotted the cap right off the board leaving 2 little stubs, and also corroded a trace on the foil side.
The PSU's are Power-One MAP series and are ringing-choke topology. The semiconductors have date codes in 1993. The PSU's were used in a commercial application, fan-cooled. They had failed...
I recently acquired a set of Bose Roomate speakers from the mid to late 80's. Basically the right speaker cabinet is completely passive, and the left one has the power transformer and amplifier circuit in it. Out of curiosity, I opened it up to see what the circuit looked like. Looks like they used all Nichicon VX (2x 4700uF/16v for smoothing off the bridge rectifier), a couple random Nichicon SE series sprinkled on the board, and what really caught my eye - 2 yellow sleeved Nichicon caps (both 1uF/50v with no real series marking. Below are pictures of the caps. The only thing not shown in these...
I must find out dissipation factor(Tan(δ)) for nichicon lxj series(6.3v 1500uf,25v 1000uf ,10v 2200uf)
I finally found out datasheet which has all series of nichicon capacitor.But unfortunately, It removed old nichicon capacitor.
Is there anyone who still has old nichicon datasheet which has information of LXJ series?
and I finally fixed this retro game console by soldering varistor and glass fuse.
But I noticed that When I measure voltage of PSU's 5pin connector, it is 8.80-9.07v, 5.13v,3.40-3.48v,GND,GND instead of its rated voltage of 9v 5v 3v GND GND.
I have spare console...
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