Hi guys it me, again... My PSU don't want to start, it has 5vsb, I already took the mov out and changed the fuse because both blew out, I think the 3.3v rectifier (cep603al) is dead because I can read 90 ohms of resistance between orange and ground, when I took out the rectifier, the short went out
My pc100 does not start
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Re: My pc100 does not start
That 90 ohms from +3.3V to ground might be a 91 ohm (or 90.9 ohm) preload resistor. That's a flyback (probably discontinuous) design, and such designs often need some preload. The dissipated power would be about 1/8W, so a 1/4 watt resistor would be easily adequate.PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
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Re: My pc100 does not start
sounds like the PWM is deadand a major event has happened. As stj already said, that usually goes with something blown up in the primary. However since you have 160V on the main filter cap, the FET should be o.k. What is printed on the PWM?
Last edited by CapLeaker; 12-30-2016, 07:18 PM.Comment
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Re: My pc100 does not start
anyway... see if the PWM gets proper Vcc voltage on pin 7. If not, it may either be in under voltage lockout, or the dropping resistor feeding it went high in value. Other than that, you can try changing it out, or buy for 25 bux another one from flea-bay.Comment
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Re: My pc100 does not start
Fuse might have blown because of a bad MOV, or maybe the MOV blew from a voltage spike and blew the fuse. A spike may have damaged something else too.
But not sure where the MOV is you speak of, I only see two Y-Capacitors and neither looks bad.
Switching transistor might have shorted but then burned out and gone open-circuit afterwards. There doesn't need to be a heck of a lot (if any) outward signs of this on the component body either (although there usually is)
That 8-Pin PWM controller does look like it has a hole in it.Last edited by Agent24; 01-01-2017, 07:36 PM."Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
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