I acquired this brand new a while ago, and recapped it because it used Asia X caps. I gave it to my buddy who needed it for a light gaming machine, which consisted of a Core 2 X6800 and a 9800GT, which should be a pretty light load for this PSU. While he was using it, he heard a loud pop, saw sparks, and no power. Wouldn't power back on, and no 5VSB. I pulled it apart and of course the first obvious part was the blown fuse. Upon further inspection, I saw a bunch of char on the PFC filer cap. I pulled the primary heat sink and saw it looked like the PFC diode had blown. It tests good though.... I tested the rest of the primary, and the bridge rectifier is also bad even though it looks fine. I think the resistor I pictured may be bad. I'm not sure what the value is supposed to be. Sometimes it reads 0.2Ω, but sometimes it fluctuates between 0.2-0.7Ω. What do you think happened to this thing? This thing looks very capable for the system it was in, I can't imagine anything in it being overloaded.
Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
Check the PFC input film cap. Incorrectly labeled CX6. It is not an X cap- we're on the DC side here.
It's right across the DC output from the rectifier. It decouples and commutates the high frequency AC on the PFC input.
If open, PFC boost mosfets explode, sometimes the bridge rectifier too.
Did you check D1 and D2 (HER-xxx)?
That resistor is 0.15 ohm, 5 percent, so your meter leads are affecting your reading.
You didn't mention it, does the booster inductor smell burnt?
Was that cap one you replaced?Last edited by kaboom; 02-02-2015, 10:38 PM."pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066All style and no substance.Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made! -
Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
Is the current limiter RT2 OK?
Can we see the straight shot of the top and bottom sides of the board?Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
Check the PFC input film cap. Incorrectly labeled CX6. It is not an X cap- we're on the DC side here.
It's right across the DC output from the rectifier. It decouples and commutates the high frequency AC on the PFC input.
If open, PFC boost mosfets explode, sometimes the bridge rectifier too.
Did you check D1 and D2 (HER-xxx)?
You didn't mention it, does the booster inductor smell burnt?
That resistor is 0.15 ohm, 5 percent, so your meter leads are affecting your reading.The heat-shrinked resistor reads 0.4Ω
Was that cap one you replaced?
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
So the PFC MOSFETs Q2, Q5 are not shorted? They are connected in parallel to drive PFC Coil L1.
R6 is fusible resistor connected to the (-) of the bridge and then connected to the load and (-) leg of the main filter cap.
How about D1, OK?Last edited by budm; 02-03-2015, 06:00 PM.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
All 4 FETs on the primary tested good. Even the PFC diode did, even though it looks charred. D1 tested good. So far, the only thing that I technically found bad is the bridge rectifier, and I'm not so sure about the integrity of the PFC diode.Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
Very interesting. I wish I could help. The film capacitor getting bad could explain the APFC failure in European version of Antec SmartPower power supplies.Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
Since the fusible resistor did not blow open circuit and the MOSFETs are OK, if MOSFETs shorted out they would have blown that fusible resistor.
So the bridge just shorted out.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
Oh well that's a good sign. Was this all just an anomoly?Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
i dont nkow if your film cap is bad,
but that's the problem with them.
if the resin is cracked, or bulging or the resin is darker than normal then i'd bin it.
they used to be a major problem on thompson widescreen crt tv's for example.
it's not a rare problem if you use them for dc blocking with high current.
(inline with scancoils for example!)Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
I had another cap which lasted almost a year. When it died, I lost a MOSFET again.
I finally rebuilt it with slightly uprated MOSFETs and a Panasonic ECQ-HV (I think?) film cap. It's been flawless ever since.
When the old caps went, there would be some squealing/squegging when the lamp struck. Once this started, it was a week or less before the caps and MOSFETs died.
So replace that film cap to be sure.When they get "bumpy" in any power ckt, they're always suspect.
"pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066All style and no substance.Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made!Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
Could be. Line voltage being higher would result in 300-340 VDC peaks across said film cap, plus the high frequency AC current through it!"pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066All style and no substance.Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made!Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
This reminds me of a 12-14V fluorescent ballast I built. I found a cap to put across the primary of the transformer, supposedly up to the job. It only worked for a short time with that one. And when it quit, one of the MOSFETs ended up leaky.
I had another cap which lasted almost a year. When it died, I lost a MOSFET again.
I finally rebuilt it with slightly uprated MOSFETs and a Panasonic ECQ-HV (I think?) film cap. It's been flawless ever since.
When the old caps went, there would be some squealing/squegging when the lamp struck. Once this started, it was a week or less before the caps and MOSFETs died.
So replace that film cap to be sure.When they get "bumpy" in any power ckt, they're always suspect.
I guess the only questions now are whether to replace the PFC diode with a known good slightly lower value (10A) at least for the sake of testing? and the fuse. Honestly, does this thing really need a 10A fuse? I might have one around but 8A is probably the highest I have sitting around.
Last edited by Pentium4; 02-03-2015, 10:26 PM.Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
I would use this one ECWFD. Non-inductive, high current pulse, high frequency.Attached FilesNever stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
Amazing! And, your first guess regarding this issue seems to be the solution, I will replace it tomorrowI guess the only questions now are whether to replace the PFC diode with a known good slightly lower value (10A) at least for the sake of testing? and the fuse. Honestly, does this thing really need a 10A fuse? I might have one around but 8A is probably the highest I have sitting around.
Warning: Do not be tempted to remove that fusible resistor that returns the low side of the forward converter primary to the negative lead of the boost cap! If you do, you'll be floating the 325-380V return path...
If that fusistor were in the positive lead instead, and you could keep the aux supply powered (it runs the PFC), then you could disconnect the forward converter and watch the voltage on the boost cap as the PFC came up- you'd see it go up from its idle ~170V.
You cannot do that in this supply.
Yes, I know that fusistor is supposed to open if the forward converter draws too much, but it's far more likely they're watching the voltage across it to do "cycle-by-cycle" current limiting instead. We don't go around deliberately opening up return paths.
If you want, you can still put a meter across the boost cap and watch the action."pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066All style and no substance.Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made!Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
For reference, I've attached Mouser's datasheet of the same series."pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066All style and no substance.Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made!Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
I will also suggest to check that Teapo cap on the primary again. You know, just for a good measure.
Also, before plugging it in next time, remember to use the incandescent light bulb series trick. Since the PSU has PFC, it may take a good 10-20 seconds before the bulb goes dim after you plug it in. But eventually it should. If not, you could still have a problem somewhere.
By the way, did I ever mention I hate PFC circuits?Last edited by momaka; 02-04-2015, 06:48 PM.Comment
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Re: Failed TOPOWER TOP-500WB
You guys rock! It's back up and runningI had forgotten that I had already instinctively ordered a few STTH12R06D diodes to have on hand, so I replaced that (and put the ferrite beads back on), replaced the film cap with the red one I had, had a GBU808 on hand, and actually found a 10A heatshrinked fuse. Only on the first start up, it took about 2 seconds to turn on after flipping the switch. Is this because the protection circuitry had been tripped previously? Another PSU saved by the knowledge of badcaps. Thanks guys, I couldn't have done it without your input, and now I've learned quite a few things.
By the way, did I ever mention I hate PFC circuits?Most of the PSU's I have in service have no PFC. If the coil isn't in the way of airflow, I like having PPFC.
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