Hbl htv-160c1

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  • budm
    Badcaps Legend
    • Feb 2010
    • 40746
    • USA

    #21
    Re: Hbl htv-160c1

    BTW, you may want to read the PDF, your circuit uses fullwave bridge without fiktering cap so you will know what expected voltage reading should be. Is your new meter True R.M.S?


    Attached Files
    Last edited by budm; 04-25-2014, 10:41 AM.
    Never stop learning
    Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

    Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

    Inverter testing using old CFL:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

    Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
    http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

    TV Factory reset codes listing:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

    Comment

    • momaka
      master hoarder
      • May 2008
      • 12175
      • Bulgaria

      #22
      Re: Hbl htv-160c1

      Probably a long shot here, but I looked at the bottom side pictures again, and some of the joints look very very cloudy and could possibly have micro-cracks. Since these things tend to run miserably hot, I suggest reflowing all of the joints just for piece of mind.

      Also, when I fixed my inverter, I tested it with a single 12V light bulb. So I'm thinking, doesn't this thing need a minimum load to oscillate properly?

      Comment

      • 3d0
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2014
        • 159
        • BiH

        #23
        Re: Hbl htv-160c1

        Originally posted by budm
        Is your new meter True R.M.S?
        No, I wish it was. Could that somehow explain the readings on my previous dmm?

        Thanks for the link, I enjoyed reading it. Simple enough for me to understand & the illustrations are great.

        Comment

        • 3d0
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2014
          • 159
          • BiH

          #24
          Re: Hbl htv-160c1

          Originally posted by momaka
          Probably a long shot here, but I looked at the bottom side pictures again, and some of the joints look very very cloudy and could possibly have micro-cracks. Since these things tend to run miserably hot, I suggest reflowing all of the joints just for piece of mind.

          Also, when I fixed my inverter, I tested it with a single 12V light bulb. So I'm thinking, doesn't this thing need a minimum load to oscillate properly?
          Yes, the soldering is bad, cant really tell from the pictures. Lot's of small cracks on the joints.
          Not sure about the minimum load, it could be possible. I'll try it after testing the diodes, resistors etc. something had to go wrong.

          Comment

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