PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

[diif]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Not completely positive. Just what i was informed. But here is the fuse I am looking for. Ideas? https://kasynparts.com/product/ps5-b...e-replacement/

It looks like a round dot in this post. https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...7&postcount=72

[stj]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

so the question is how fast vs how expensive.
aliexpress or digikey?

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Not completely positive. Just what i was informed. But here is the fuse I am looking for. Ideas? https://kasynparts.com/product/ps5-b...e-replacement/

[diif]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Fuse is a 0603 Timed(slow blow) 3 a 6v. I can find fuses but not 0603 3 amp with 6v. All the voltages i am finding are much higher

Are you sure it's 3A, it looks like it's 2A to me.

[stj]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

so if it's rated for 250v your fine.
fuses dont blow based on voltage - only the current matters

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Right but for that circuit. The voltage should only be 5v on both sides of that fuse.

[stj]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

the voltage is simply the maximum - thats suppposed to be as high as possible

incidentally, the voltage is usually based on the ability of a spark to reach from one side to the other with fuses.
so longer fuse = higher maximum voltage

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

if you know the mA / A value you can source smd fuses anywhere

Fuse is a 0603 Timed(slow blow) 3 a 6v. I can find fuses but not 0603 3 amp with 6v. All the voltages i am finding are much higher

[stj]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

if you know the mA / A value you can source smd fuses anywhere

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Where can we source the F7002 fuse from? I see Kasynparts has them but not sure how long it will take to receive. Anyone have ideas or experience?

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

That grey component is an inductor (coil of wire) it will always show as short on a DMM, it is high impedance to AC and low impedance to DC, hence they use them on the output of DC-DC converters to reduce the ripple on the output along with the help of some decoupling capacitors.

I think you need to go back to basics here. If you have a short on the 12V rail (PSU is entering current limiting mode) then you need to figure out what on that line is drawing so much current.

It could be a DC-DC converter and the fault is a little bit down the line and not directly on the 12V rail, but right now you know that when applying 12V to the input it is drawing too much current, first thing is to find out WHY without going down all these little rabbit holes.

You need to start isolating parts of the circuit from the 12V rail and see when you disconnect the input fuse to xxx part does the current draw drop? If it does, then you have found the area drawing too much current from the 12V rail and then you go down that path.

If fuse F7002 is open (and feeds from the 12V rail, I am not sure if it does so maybe confirm that) and you still get large current draw then it can't be that part of the circuit drawing all the current as there is not supply to that part of the circuit with F7002 being open.

Mario,
I still dont trust that A2 (TPS62822) chip either. The bench power supply no longer limits since i fixed the oxidated pads under the A2 chip. Will revisit . Thank you as always.

[Mario875]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Mario,
Thank you for the tips. You made me backtrack and I think i have been getting trolled. When i injected voltage at positive side of this cap circled. The wifi chip was what was getting hot. Now this area was what was getting hot. I used ipa on the single components and all were heating up at the same rate. Very fast. Started with the first cap coming off the fuse. That wasnt it. Then pulled the chip. Noticed some oxidated pads at ground. Cleaned them up i still show a short on the cap I injected voltage to. But its not acting as a wire so i feel its good. Although this gray part I am not familiar with is shorted and that starts the line after the first 5v big cap. Could it be this gray component. I remember Phil showing a video on this area will have to track it down in his channel. I will check diode readings on known good board for this area and backside of board in the same area.

That grey component is an inductor (coil of wire) it will always show as short on a DMM, it is high impedance to AC and low impedance to DC, hence they use them on the output of DC-DC converters to reduce the ripple on the output along with the help of some decoupling capacitors.

I think you need to go back to basics here. If you have a short on the 12V rail (PSU is entering current limiting mode) then you need to figure out what on that line is drawing so much current.

It could be a DC-DC converter and the fault is a little bit down the line and not directly on the 12V rail, but right now you know that when applying 12V to the input it is drawing too much current, first thing is to find out WHY without going down all these little rabbit holes.

You need to start isolating parts of the circuit from the 12V rail and see when you disconnect the input fuse to xxx part does the current draw drop? If it does, then you have found the area drawing too much current from the 12V rail and then you go down that path.

If fuse F7002 is open (and feeds from the 12V rail, I am not sure if it does so maybe confirm that) and you still get large current draw then it can't be that part of the circuit drawing all the current as there is not supply to that part of the circuit with F7002 being open.

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

The A2 chip was not making a good connection. This chip is a bear to get soldered due to the confined space. I had 5.0v on the right side of fuse but only 0.473 on the left. Checked the fuse i continuity mode. Fuse blown. Anyone know the specs of this fuse?

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

So if you inject 12V, current limited to 1A on the main 12V power rail the PSU kicks into constant current mode and providers 4.35V @ 1A? In other words 4.35W of power.

You have a short somewhere if your PSU kicks into constant current mode. As you know the board should draw 300mA then drop down again when 12V is applied if it is trying to draw over 1A and being current limited by the PSU it indicates either the 12V rail or something that feeds off of it is shorted or partially shorted.

I would get the thermal camera out and see if you can spot something getting hot. The power rails for the APU can sometimes not show up on thermal cam when shorted as they are in parallel but if you isolate them by removing the large inductor that goes from the 12V rail to the MOSFETs you can try and narrow down the problem if your PSU subsequently stops going into constant current mode when the APU rails are isolated.

Mario,
Thank you for the tips. You made me backtrack and I think i have been getting trolled. When i injected voltage at positive side of this cap circled. The wifi chip was what was getting hot. Now this area was what was getting hot. I used ipa on the single components and all were heating up at the same rate. Very fast. Started with the first cap coming off the fuse. That wasnt it. Then pulled the chip. Noticed some oxidated pads at ground. Cleaned them up i still show a short on the cap I injected voltage to. But its not acting as a wire so i feel its good. Although this gray part I am not familiar with is shorted and that starts the line after the first 5v big cap. Could it be this gray component. I remember Phil showing a video on this area will have to track it down in his channel. I will check diode readings on known good board for this area and backside of board in the same area.

[Mario875]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

So if you inject 12V, current limited to 1A on the main 12V power rail the PSU kicks into constant current mode and providers 4.35V @ 1A? In other words 4.35W of power.

You have a short somewhere if your PSU kicks into constant current mode. As you know the board should draw 300mA then drop down again when 12V is applied if it is trying to draw over 1A and being current limited by the PSU it indicates either the 12V rail or something that feeds off of it is shorted or partially shorted.

I would get the thermal camera out and see if you can spot something getting hot. The power rails for the APU can sometimes not show up on thermal cam when shorted as they are in parallel but if you isolate them by removing the large inductor that goes from the 12V rail to the MOSFETs you can try and narrow down the problem if your PSU subsequently stops going into constant current mode when the APU rails are isolated.

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Update: Received the known good Wifi Module from Phil. Great part condition. But needless to say problem is still at large. I connect and feed it 12v @ 1a. The board draws 4.35v and 1a. Bench Power supply kicks into protection mode. I am going to sit and stew on this one tonight.

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Cheers bud for the shoutout Hopefully the WiFi module fixes the issue for you. I'd say that order will be with you by Friday (depends on Royal Mail and USPS I guess). From what you've said (yeah I've just read the entire thread) it does seem to be a WiFi issue. Given that there's a bunch of shorts below the module too it's unlikely to be a single cap because I believe all those caps are on separate lines so shouldn't be linked in any way. The WiFi module very commonly goes bad on these things. They're a lot worse than the PS4 because at least with the PS4 the console still turns on when they go bad.

Fingers crossed for you

Phil,
My pleasure. I appreciate the assist.Sounds good on the order. I will sure keep you posted and everyone here where we land this repair.Yeah the diode readings on that cap I injected to seemed fine. Sony needs to go with a better source for their chips. These NXP's are not cutting it. The proof is in the pudding as they say haha. By the way I love your location. " NOYB" haha Thanks again!

[stj]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

welcome m8, love your livestreams

[TheCod3r]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Cheers bud for the shoutout Hopefully the WiFi module fixes the issue for you. I'd say that order will be with you by Friday (depends on Royal Mail and USPS I guess). From what you've said (yeah I've just read the entire thread) it does seem to be a WiFi issue. Given that there's a bunch of shorts below the module too it's unlikely to be a single cap because I believe all those caps are on separate lines so shouldn't be linked in any way. The WiFi module very commonly goes bad on these things. They're a lot worse than the PS4 because at least with the PS4 the console still turns on when they go bad.

Fingers crossed for you

[TheWizard]

Re: PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

Update: Injected 1.8v @ 1 a of current to Capacitor on the F7002 line. Used the thermal cam and the wifi module lit up like the sun. Traced issue to the actual NXP IC. Could not source part. But I was able to find a factory known good at The Cod3r's consolefix.shop. Waiting for delivery and I will replace and see if the PS5 is happy again. If anyone needs known good tested factory PS5 parts. Hit up Phil's site. Very nice resource. Much thanks to Phil. Stay tuned..