PS5 BLOD- CFI-1115A Disc Version- Board= EDM-020

[TheWizard]

Just an update on this one. This ended up being a bad APU. I re- balled and reseated the APU but it was too far gone.

[TheWizard]

Update on this one. Connected UART and I am showing an error of 80000140: APU Freeze (No Response) - GDDR6 Data Line Issue (Replace). Thermal camera showed RAM module 6 not lighting up. Reballed the module and reseated. No change. I then replaced the module with a known good. Still received no change. What makes up this data line besides the APU and the RAM?

[TheWizard]

Does anyone know what this chip is and possibly have a datasheet for it?

[TheWizard]

Flir thermal cam was misleading me a bit by making me think there was a cap or nearby inductor heating up first. Not liking how the Flir shifts the thermal layout. Went old school on this ps5 last night and broke out a can of freeze spray. First component to get hot was the NXP chip followed by inductor and nearby cap. Looks like I will need another wifi module. Trying to source the AW-XM501 this time.

[TheWizard]

Anyone have any further ideas? One thing I have noticed is my know good EDM-020 disc edition board has an AW-XM501 wifi module. Not the regular J20H100 module. Not sure if that is related. I heard both were compatible.

[TheWizard]

Took some new thermal images. Providing 12v @1a. I am drawing 51ma. During this stage the Wifi IC heats up along with the (Dialog) power regulator and One Flash memory chip for Nand. After this sequence the amps drop to 21ma and components cool down. See pics

[TheWizard]

Update: I re-balled the 2nd replacement wifi module and soldered back to board. But this time I left the shield off the module so I could take readings from components directly on the wifi module. I have my 3.3 on the test point located on the motherboard. I also have 3.3 and 1.8 on the caps for the wifi module itself. The only time the f7002 circuit reads a short is when the wifi module is soldered to the board. If its removed the diode readings for the f7002 circuit go back to normal. The short also exists on the caps on opposite side of wifi module. But those shorts go away as well when the wifi module is removed. I feel like i am running in circles with this one. I checked the southbridge and i have good diode readings there as well. I also have good readings at hdmi encoder. Any ideas?

[TheWizard]

Lotas,
So the only cap showing a resistance to ground reading is the one at the left in the picture you modified with circles. That reading is 3.250 mohms. The others all show OL. The cap with arrow in this new first pic was showing short. So i removed. Short was still there. Traced it back to the filter. Removed that and short was gone. Not sure if related because i dont have a pin out for this chip. Next step would be to replace filter and see if short still exists. May be reliant on chip to be there.

[lotas]

Those that cost according to power supply, it has two power supplies, if it is low or short, then the chip itself is basically broken, if in doubt, then remove the chip from the board and check the resistance on these capacitors again...

[TheWizard]

Lotas,
Which caps are you referring to? The two big caps at the bottom middle of board have readings. As you get up to the right of the chip seems like that is where shorts start.

[lotas]

Usually, if there is short or low resistance on the blocking ceramic capacitors, then the module is faulty.

[TheWizard]

Okay people I am back at this one again. Anyone know the best way to test the wifi module for the PS5? Anyone have a recording of known good diode readings etc? I was just using the ground point at the bottom left and probing around the board from there. I have three of these modules and all three produce the same results on the board. Any ideas?

[Chikaubah]

Please could you snap the programmer you are using because i have a ch341a programmer but it doesn’t detect my ps5 chip but if i try a random chip it detect it so i dont know what going on i did sometimes downgraded my ch431a programmer to 3v because it came with 5v so if i can see your that will help

[TheWizard]

Hey stj, long time no chat. I did not lift the shield up yet on the wifi module. I only provide the supply 12v @1a. So should not be overvoltage. This is such a nightmare man. Haha

[stj]

overvoltage maybe.
did you look at what is bad in it?

[TheWizard]

Removed wifi module and short went away. Could there be something shorting out the wifi modules? This is the 2nd new one I have put in it.

[TheWizard]

Flushed IPA and heated up the Southbridge enough to move flush but not melt solder to make sure there was no flux trapped underneath. The board now draws 25mA then drops to 22mA and holds. I have 1.8v and 3.3v at the caps under the wifi module. I have 3.3 at the test point for wifi module. I also have 1.8 v at the front facing resistor located on backside of Southbridge area. The A2 buck converter is supposed to be creating the 1.8v rail. But does it feed back to the inductor pictured in my previous post? Trying to rule out Southbridge and WiFi module. Already had to replace it once. Any ideas fellow techs?

[TheWizard]

Late Update: Finally getting back to this PS5. I have all my power rails.. 12v , 5v, 3.3v, 2.0, and I even have 1.8v reporting on the front end resistor located on the back side of board where Southbridge would be. The problem is i have a short on the 1.8v rail where it comes in here to this inductor. Anyone know what provides the 1.8v direct to this inductor? Is it the dialog chip below, Southbridge etc..? I have 3.3 reading at the wifi module. I am also missing the 1.8v on the caps on backside board below wifi module. I get the 5.0v at the f7002 fuse, positive side of cap and left side of inductor pad. Any ideas?

[stj]

i'll thank you now - one more for the collection

[gunjanksh]

Thank me later