Steer me the right way on this Samsung 245BW of epic cruddyness?
Geez, I've spent days reading here now, and I've come to the conclusion that Samsung must have let the new guy design the 245B[W] or something. I guess, there are a few advantages to having the one that always breaks...looks like a few folks around here just about have the schematics memorized, heh.
Anyhow, I'd appreciate if someone with more cluepons than I could look over my findings, and see if any of them are even slightly factual. I've played electricity some and only made my hair stand on end a couple times, but this is substantially beyond my previous experience. This dang thing cost way too much to just toss out tho, and besides...what am I gonna do, break it?
My 245BW has always done the blue horizontal flickery lines thing after waking up from power saving. I figured out a power cycle would fix it, assumed it was a driver/firmware bug or something and forgot about it. All was good until the other day when it learned the other popular trick. Now it has the far too common 'screen blank but power LED behaves normally' thing...acts like it's turning on+off, goes to sleep, wakes up, etc...but the display is limited to a resolution of 1x1 at 1 bit color (blue light off, or blue light on...). [Sorry, I think I went a bit nutty reading the 20something page long 245BW thread...]
Here's what I have found/speculated/invented while wishing I had a clue:
- I have the more popularly broken BN44-00173A power board.
- I believe RB805 is dead, RB806/RB807 appear okay
- Inverter board requires new caps, C39 is tossing it's cookies (it's a miracle it worked long enough for RB805 to blow up...or could these be related?)
- Caps on power board all look ok, but should probably be changed anyway
- 24V appears dead (makes sense, I believe, without RB805)
- All fuses seem okay (1 on inverter, 3 on power board), To the untrained eye, FB802S looks more like a fireplace than a fuse...reading 0.0 - 0.1 ohms though.
- Not sure about CM802/RM802 - is it possible to test RM802 in circuit, or must a leg be lifted? If it can be tested in circuit, I believe it's toast...
Basically, I'm concerned by the abundance of heat marks on the power board, and by the great difficulty that a few people had in getting it going. I'd be interested in giving a go at changing some stuff, but not if the whole thing is generally toasty. Any advice is welcome...no fancy equipment got a seemingly acceptible DMM that does ohms and volts. Don't have a sufficiently powerful soldering iron yet, but willing to get one. Camera isn't the best, but hopefully it'll work. Love you guys forever if you help me quit using this teeny tiny 19" CRT that is taking up six times the deskspace
Oh, and I'd stress more about picture quality, but this board seems so well documented that I hope it's not a problem
If needed, I can take some closer up, and paste them together/zoom em out or something...manual anti-aliasing hehe.
Anyhow, I'd appreciate if someone with more cluepons than I could look over my findings, and see if any of them are even slightly factual. I've played electricity some and only made my hair stand on end a couple times, but this is substantially beyond my previous experience. This dang thing cost way too much to just toss out tho, and besides...what am I gonna do, break it?
My 245BW has always done the blue horizontal flickery lines thing after waking up from power saving. I figured out a power cycle would fix it, assumed it was a driver/firmware bug or something and forgot about it. All was good until the other day when it learned the other popular trick. Now it has the far too common 'screen blank but power LED behaves normally' thing...acts like it's turning on+off, goes to sleep, wakes up, etc...but the display is limited to a resolution of 1x1 at 1 bit color (blue light off, or blue light on...). [Sorry, I think I went a bit nutty reading the 20something page long 245BW thread...]
Here's what I have found/speculated/invented while wishing I had a clue:
- I have the more popularly broken BN44-00173A power board.
- I believe RB805 is dead, RB806/RB807 appear okay
- Inverter board requires new caps, C39 is tossing it's cookies (it's a miracle it worked long enough for RB805 to blow up...or could these be related?)
- Caps on power board all look ok, but should probably be changed anyway
- 24V appears dead (makes sense, I believe, without RB805)
- All fuses seem okay (1 on inverter, 3 on power board), To the untrained eye, FB802S looks more like a fireplace than a fuse...reading 0.0 - 0.1 ohms though.
- Not sure about CM802/RM802 - is it possible to test RM802 in circuit, or must a leg be lifted? If it can be tested in circuit, I believe it's toast...
Basically, I'm concerned by the abundance of heat marks on the power board, and by the great difficulty that a few people had in getting it going. I'd be interested in giving a go at changing some stuff, but not if the whole thing is generally toasty. Any advice is welcome...no fancy equipment got a seemingly acceptible DMM that does ohms and volts. Don't have a sufficiently powerful soldering iron yet, but willing to get one. Camera isn't the best, but hopefully it'll work. Love you guys forever if you help me quit using this teeny tiny 19" CRT that is taking up six times the deskspace
Oh, and I'd stress more about picture quality, but this board seems so well documented that I hope it's not a problem
If needed, I can take some closer up, and paste them together/zoom em out or something...manual anti-aliasing hehe.
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