Pioneer amplifier A-205 Relay not clicking after a mistake i made

[GraphicMan]

btw there is actually a much cleaner version of the schismatics R_J shared it
https://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_a-1.../download.html
in case it helps

[R_J]

Does the speaker switch have any effect? also do you have any headphones to try? The amp output runs through the headhphne ass'y board before it goes to the speakers.

[GraphicMan]

Does the speaker switch have any effect? also do you have any headphones to try? The amp output runs through the headhphne ass'y board before it goes to the speakers.

the speaker switches has no effect also , on top of that i never had any scratchy noises from the speaker switches also
they are just A and B, i am always using the B, and it works but on right channel only

i have an earphone but with the small jack, i think i have a converter, will try and let u know
thanks

[R_J]

I doubt there is a DC problem with the amp section, if there was the protection circuit would engage and you would not have any output. it is likely something in the signal path that is at fault. If you can access the plug AKP1044, use a metal pin held by your fingers to inject signal (hum) at pins 1 (right channel) and 3 (left channel)

[GraphicMan]

I doubt there is a DC problem with the amp section, if there was the protection circuit would engage and you would not have any output. it is likely something in the signal path that is at fault. If you can access the plug AKP1044, use a metal pin held by your fingers to inject signal (hum) at pins 1 (right channel) and 3 (left channel)

dont know if that is a good or a bad news, i did not find the converter so i used these 3 pins as mentioned in the pic and there is clear sound coming to the head phones from both left and right pins
plz confirm that my assumption is correct on these pins

this means there is no issue in the path of the input signal?
if so, where is the problem then?!

can you please guide me where is that AKP1044 connector on the actual pcb?
attached is the pcb after cleaning and re flowing some joints (already tested and worked at that stage before the assembly)
if the connector is not on that pcb where is it?
thank you

[GraphicMan]

i also want to add a side note that i notice now and also before
I am actually connected a tweeter and a sub woofer in parallel to every channel, i know u might disagree with that setup but that works perfectly and the tweeter is not overloaded or anything, however latetly before that thread , there was scratchy noises due to the switches as well as the pot, i cleaned these but one thing sometimes happen which is the tweeters works but not the subwoofer until i boost the volume and get it started then i can lower the volume normally, it could be from the pot or scratchy switches still but thought to mention that in case it means something else

[GraphicMan]

ok i found the connector u meant, it is on the pic i sent
R makes sound, L no sound when touched!
so?

[petehall347]

i also want to add a side note that i notice now and also before
I am actually connected a tweeter and a sub woofer in parallel to every channel, i know u might disagree with that setup but that works perfectly and the tweeter is not overloaded or anything, however latetly before that thread , there was scratchy noises due to the switches as well as the pot, i cleaned these but one thing sometimes happen which is the tweeters works but not the subwoofer until i boost the volume and get it started then i can lower the volume normally, it could be from the pot or scratchy switches still but thought to mention that in case it means something else

might mean the speaker relay contacts are dirty .

[GraphicMan]

might mean the speaker relay contacts are dirty .

it does not have a relay, perhaps bad contact also, good point from you
i just need to solve the L channel at the point, very annoyed

thanks

[petehall347]

speaker switch then . cranking vol can make the connection better for a time .

[R_J]

it does not have a relay, perhaps bad contact also, good point from you
i just need to solve the L channel at the point, very annoyed

???
Your first most mentions the relay

all lights are on normally, except that the unit does not click its relay anymore and ofcourse no sound

dont know if that is a good or a bad news, i did not find the converter so i used these 3 pins as mentioned in the pic and there is clear sound coming to the head phones from both left and right pins
plz confirm that my assumption is correct on these pins

If you have audio at the headphone jack then I would start by resoldering the connections on the speaker switches and the connector pins as well

Looking at your picture of the headphone jack, it looks like the (L) contact needs to be resoldered I suspect others are bad on that board as well

[CapLeaker]

Geez… should be easy finding the problem. The amp isn’t going into protection mode since the relay clicks. So the problem has to be after the amp board until it hits the speaker terminal. Plus the headphone jack, as it disconnects the speaker output. You can trace the audio either from leaving the PA board to the speaker output jack or backwards from the speaker jack back to the PA board. RJ already mentioned the speaker jack… didn’t read all the posts… lol And the protection relay itself, as it also physically disconnects the output to the speakers.

[GraphicMan]

Geez… should be easy finding the problem. The amp isn’t going into protection mode since the relay clicks. So the problem has to be after the amp board until it hits the speaker terminal. Plus the headphone jack, as it disconnects the speaker output. You can trace the audio either from leaving the PA board to the speaker output jack or backwards from the speaker jack back to the PA board. RJ already mentioned the speaker jack… didn’t read all the posts… lol And the protection relay itself, as it also physically disconnects the output to the speakers.

hmm, this is getting a bit strange and also very frustrating
guess what
i re soldered all pins on the jack/speaker switches pcb as well as all the pins of the connectors on the attached pic (inside the rectangles)
and now i dont have any output on the speakers!!!, kept clicking on the speaker switches, nothing at all
on top of that, when i tested again with the headphones, the sound is very very faint! unlike the last time!!!!!
what does that mean?!!

[GraphicMan]

relay still works normally

[GraphicMan]

i thought to test the connectivity of these switches
B is perfect which is the one i am using all the time
A connect / disconnect only the one marked right, X is always ON no matter what
is that right or wrong? can this cause all that issues including the very faint sound on the phones?
i really dont want to pull these out unless i am sure it is the issue coz it is a lot of work
the 2 switches are both crimped to a single steel plate, for that i will have to desolder the 12 pins at the same time in order to be able to pull it out!
thanks

[GraphicMan]

i am assuming that "x" issue (connected all the time) should not be the problem coz whether A switch is on or off the output is not affected as far as B switch is good and ON and that by itself is worrying me

[GraphicMan]

ok finally some good news
i re soldered again and add a re flowing /soldering to the relay pins and some other pins that looks they have little solder (close to the connector)
there is sound on both channels , but for few seconds and when i tried to press on the direct switch there was noises (which is not news, i know it have issues) but the news is that the relay started to go on/off quickly, so i decided to power off the unit immediately to check
now i removed the direct switch
and disassembled it, it is complex and have 12 pins!
for that i need to know what is it doing first , so that i can check before re soldering it
the main issue for me with these switches is that in addition to its 4 copper moving pieces there is also a small copper plate, i am not exactly sure what it does, apparently the unit cant work/produce sound with that switch being pulled out coz it has a function in both on/off states
i have uploaded pics for the switch and also a drawn diagram which have 2 copies to make it easy for you to mark for me the connections should be made between pins on the OFF and ON states, plz pay attention to the orientation, the pins shown assuming a direct view not x rayed and the bulk is on left side
lets finish this i hope
thanks

[GraphicMan]

in addition:
also here is a pic for the front panel, showing the 12 pins
i would like to first solder them to the "direct switch" OFF state without using the switch, just to make sure and make it easy to diagnose
plz let me know how should i blob / wire them without the switch, just mark for me the connected pins and i will do it
thanks

[GraphicMan]

this is the best i could find with my limited knowledge in schematic drawings for the direct switch pins
but here it is rotated compared to the pcb pic i shared, is the small + means connected together? and on which state is that? off by default
just trying to learn something new
thanks

[GraphicMan]

plz dont forget to tell me about these 2 pins specifically coz i did something, i desoldered both using the copper wick (completely clean) and i did test the switch (both pins isolated from the pcb), and it works perfectly it does d/c and connect them so the short is not from the switch, however when i test the pads continuity they are always connected, so i want to know if that is ok or they should not be connected all the time at any state
the other pin does d/c / connect, the other B switch is perfect also, it is important coz it could mean something, however like i said keeping A on with B on fine and it have never been a problem but just want to make sure