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Re: Onkyo TX-NR616 won't stay powered on
I have never done anything like this myself.
I have replaced the DSP with a new D version, I have replaced the nand flash, which I have flashed, with a firmware file and still no change.
Look at the avsforum link that I have posted earlier, that TJMotter seems like he did this many times and you should ask him what to do.
I'm posting there as well.
I need to get a Bus Pirate next. Also he is saying that is not easy to make a good nand flash without bad sectors, which is important.
Most likely, I will have to de-solder it and compare it, with a good working nand's content.
Normally, it is not worth to me all this trouble, because the 609 is not worth much. I'm doing it for the challenge and I'm also learning something.
I have got this receiver for free.Comment
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Re: Onkyo TX-NR616 won't stay powered on
Hot air.Comment
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Re: Onkyo TX-NR616 won't stay powered on
I'm in the same situation as you. I don't have experience with this.
The firmware may have been corrupted, somebody could have loaded the wrong firmware.
Please read the avsforum, what TJMotter said. He has experience.Comment
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can u tell us pls, where exactly the dc board is connected to ur hdmi board? where do the wires go? hard to see in the pictures. Is ur dts chip's 5 volt still present or did he cut a trace or something like that?
The Dts has its own rom, as u can read in the datasheet and maybe needs to be programmed to.
I think he took of the 5 volt from the dts and takes the 5 volt from the lil board, so that the dsp doesnt has to.Comment
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Re: Onkyo TX-NR616 won't stay powered on
Sorry, but I have sold that receiver long time ago. I did not do the repair myself, it was done by a Ebay repair man, who was offering this repair.Comment
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Re: Onkyo TX-NR616 won't stay powered on
Got a 609 cheap. Video and sound only in DIRECT mode, gray net and upgrade. Will reflow the DSP chip and add heat sink. Waiting for thermocouple so I can heat chip to reball specs. Don't want to cook it. BTW, I picked up a clean Sony STR-DN840 for $60 w/remote locally, everything works! I have had good luck with Sony, just cracked solder joints on amp boards, easy to ID and fix.Comment
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Re: Onkyo TX-NR616 won't stay powered on
The DSP chip may be bad as well. It could be the soldering, but also could be that the chip is bad. They were recalled. The new chips, have a D in the model number. The original one has a B.Comment
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Hello,
Purchased a broken Samsung UN39EH5003FXZA (Version CD01) to have fun fixing. When I first acquired it, I did not connect any video signals and only plugged it into the wall. The unit booted and showed the “no signal” window and I could navigate all menus and change sources. I unplugged it, connected my over-the-air antenna to the coax, powered it on, got the unit to scan the HDTV channels, and I think then the TV self-shutdown with the melody. When I powered back up (melody), it would show the channel selected on the OSD and after a couple of seconds, it self-shutdown... -
Hi folks,
I'm new to this forum. So my trusty 17-year-old LG 47" LCD recently died. As I was booting it up, I heard a hum followed by a loud bang, sounds of pieces flying around, and loss of power to the unit. Inspecting the PSU, I saw two obvious problems: a blown thermistor (bang + flung pieces) and a visibly bulging main cap. Inspecting as many components as I could with my Fluke MM, I diagnosed that the following components on the "hot side" of the board were also bad: one of the 2 main MOSFETs, main 8A fuse, small cap (25V 47uF) connected to main caps, and a blown... -
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HP Modelnumber: 14-dh0061nb
This laptop had a shorted cap on a Vcore section. After replacement is works again. But there is still a battery issue.
The battery is HT03XL and with the built-in component test from HP, in the Power section, I get an error: Logic State: Calibration required (20), Charge state: Blown Fuse (42)
I have another same battery, also with error: Logic State: Very Weak (70), Charge state: Blown Fuse (42)
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Hey everyone,
I'm a novice trying to repair my laptop. The LCD screen has an image, but no LED backlight for the image. It also produces an image when connected to an external monitor.
I have found what I believe to be a blown inductor labeled "L4502" and "120 Ohm" in the schematics (zoomed in image, blue arrow to blown component). I have included an image of the general area of the mobo and an excerpt from the schematics as well.
I am having trouble selecting a replacement component, which I believe to be a 120 Ohm ferrite bead, from the components...
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