I actually have a thread which is very old. I just gave up then, but I may revive it. Need to find it, and do some checking.
I have a 87V(the only one that I have purchased new), 189(old version, that had deposit in the terminals and it was beeping)), Siglent SDM3055(got it from scrap from work, with a boot issue, that I have just revived w/Siglent provided firmware), Amprobe 38XR-A(had a blown fuse). No shortage of meters.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...9-won-t-tun-on
tibimakai
Badcaps Legend
Last Activity: 02-17-2026, 08:14 PM
Joined: 01-18-2012
Location: Los Angeles/San Dimas, CA
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I still have an old 179, that a few years ago I've picked up from CR for $40, but it is completely dead, and I couldn't find anything wrong with it. Most likely I have a thread about it somewhere.
Do you feel like helping with that? I hate throwing it away.Leave a comment:
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Just to conclude this thread, replaced the SMD 1K resistor, the through hole 2.61k resistor and the fuse, and the meter is back to normal.
Thank you everybody, who helped me figure this out.Leave a comment:
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I may install through hole resistors, since the trace is gone.Leave a comment:
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Thank you anyway, I appreciate the help.Leave a comment:
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Found this video, that is exactly what the issue is with mine:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ogl1lWgJCqkLeave a comment:
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Thank you very much. Man it is very hard to understand what they are trying to say. I have glanced it over, and what I'm reading is that the Fluke A/D converter chip(669918) could be damaged?
It will take a while until I will order the parts, because I have a JVC LX-UH1 projector, that I'm repairing and I want to order the parts at the same time.
I'm also looking for schematic for this pj as well, but most likely JVC did not published anything for the ballast and power supply.Leave a comment:
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The PCB is black under that resistor(the resistor's shape), but it is not conductive. I also managed to pop up the PCB with the hot air station(yeahh).
I have just realized that that one of the big fuses are open.
I can swear that it was good when I started.
I guess I will place an order for those two resistors, and a fuse, and we go from there.
Will be back, when I have replaced those components.
Since the trace is lifted and one side is gone, should/could I use through hole resistors?...Last edited by tibimakai; 12-05-2023, 12:38 AM.Leave a comment:
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On the back of the red part is D44, not sure what that means. I did not se the LF logo.
Thanks for the resistor info.
What do you think I should do, order and replace those resistors and we go from there, or should we do more diagnosing, before I order parts?Leave a comment:
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That is a great picture!! Thank you for that.
What wattage could those have, 0.25W?
I will post a picture with the red part, when I get home.
Thank you guys, it is much appreciated.Leave a comment:
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The red one measures 1.107Kohm.
I was measuring parasitic drain at my wife's CRV, maybe I did something stupid and I did not even realize?!
What should I look for at the voltage scale?
MOVs show OL with the Ohm meter, except the red one.
Which one is the protection clamp?...Last edited by tibimakai; 11-29-2023, 10:22 PM.Leave a comment:
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The replacement supercap in the 289 thread is the same part number for the 189 as well? Mine is growing something as well. I think it would be time to replace that.Leave a comment:
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Opened it and found at least one resistor blown, with trace lifted as well. The one next to it, in series reads 1.152KOh. I'm not sure, if that OK, or not....
Leave a comment:
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I will check when I get home, but I remember that I have measure the Ohm scale with the 87, and it was reading 15.3Mohm instead of 10Mohm.Leave a comment:
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MOV?! What exactly is that?Leave a comment:
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Fluke 189 series 1 DC voltage is off
I have just realized that my meter is off, when I measure the car's battery, and I can't imagine how that happened.
I also have a 87, and when I doubled checked the voltage, the 87 was showing 3.5V higher, than the 189. Most likely the 189 is off.
Where should I start with the 189?
Switched leads between the two meters, but nothing has changed.
I have not opened it yet.
Any help would be appreciated.... -
Re: Lincoln Electric LE31MP welder not turning on
Unfortunately I can't find any schematic for this welder.
I have posted pictures already.Leave a comment:
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Re: Lincoln Electric LE31MP welder not turning on
Sorry about not getting back sooner.
This IC needs 16V to start oscillating, and I'm getting only 15.5V.
Most likely that is the issue.
The question is, which component causing this drop.
There are 3x56K resistors in series after the diode bridge and from there it is already 15.5V.
I'm attaching a generic schematic of the UC3842 IC.
Before pin #7 there is a 56K resistor. On my welder I have 3x56K resistors....Leave a comment:
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Re: Lincoln Electric LE31MP welder not turning on
Uc3842Leave a comment:
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Re: Lincoln Electric LE31MP welder not turning on
It may very well be, what is happening here, but which one?Leave a comment:
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