a friend of mine treid to charge his drill battery from a generator his charger went bang its a Makkita DC1804 f Battery charger blown a fuse and cap can anyone advise a replacement cap friom the photos
I have read that conventional portable generators have limited output regulation and can go way above normal rated output voltage and therefore damage anything connected to the output - and I have also read that portable safety switch may be damaged by a generator (the conventional kind, of course).
Inverter generators do not have this problem, and are more efficient, which means the motor speed changes on load demand and the inverter section provides good output voltage regulation regardless of motor speed or load.
My first choice in quality Japanese electrolytics is Nippon Chemi-Con, which has been in business since 1931... the quality of electronics is dependent on the quality of the electrolytics.
Yes -good spot- missed that when I was googling - skipped straight past it to some info further down. I cant of course guarantee that is what it did say on the burnt one but seems a reasonable guess if it is 10mm across.
275V MOV: 10mm Diameter, D is the MOV series, 431 = 275V R.M.S is the rated voltage, selldoor got the correct spec.
That generator must have gone up to 500VAC or more to blow that MOV. We had our problem with people using our product with cheaply made generator with poor regulator, I always suggest them to put 100W lamp at the outlet to give it the light load and it is also used as an indicator since most people will not have Volt meter to check the output.
FYI, While you are waiting for the MOV to arrive, you can just replace the fuse, and the charger will work just fine. The only down side is that the charger will have no surge protection. The MOV is only used for surge protection. It has no function in the actual operation of the charger.
Should check the rectifier Diodes (4 of them, I can see at least D12 in the pictures), also use ohm meter across that large DC filter cap and see if it shows low resistance AFTER you VERIFY that there is no DC still on that cap, otherwise you need to discharge if first.
^ Maybe it will operate ok, but as of yet there is no guarantee the MOV was the only thing damaged.
True, this is electronics, and there are no guarantees. But if the MOV has been properly selected for the application, it is rare for the circuitry beyond it to be damaged. That is the reason for having it in there in the first place. And if there is some other failed component(s), you can troubleshoot it without having to replace the MOV.
Looking at my previous post, I guess I should have said "will PROBABLY work OK", but I must post things quickly (cannot spend much time on here during working hours) so sometimes I cannot proofread as well as I should.
Last edited by randtek; 11-28-2012, 06:19 AM.
Reason: corrected typos
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