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randtek
Badcaps Veteran
Last Activity: 03-22-2018, 11:38 PM
Joined: 10-21-2011
Location: US Midwest
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  • Re: Best glue?

    The LEDs in a TV do not generate enough heat to affect epoxy performance, except for the very large and extremely powerful LEDs used to drive DLP type TVs. I used to repair the LED backlight assemblies in Sharp TVs, even 70 inch and above. I was part of a team that developed the repair process for their panels. The LEDs never get that hot.
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  • Re: New Members - please post your introductions here

    Hello again! I have been away from BadCaps Forum for several years, and much has changed, so I thought a re-introduction might be in order.

    After 25 years at the same job, I was not re-hired after a third buyout, and became an unemployed electronics tech at that point. Since then, I have I have built a reflow soldering and rework bench, and have been doing free-lance prototyping and assembly work. I designed and built a device (LED Light controller for outdoor lights.) that is being sold by a local company to...
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  • Re: Best glue?

    Epoxy would be my first choice for that. That is probably what the original black glue is. If not epoxy, my 2nd choice would be a silicone/RTV type glue. I have never found the cyanoacrylate "super-glues" to be reliable in electronics repair, except in certain specific situations. Not to mention their poor shelf. Once opened, you might as well trow a tube of super glue away if you don't use it up quickly.

    Just about any of these would be fine. I really like J-B Weld products from this list.

    [URL="https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=epoxy"]Epoxies...
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    Last edited by randtek; 11-05-2016, 06:57 AM.

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  • Re: Looking for couple tips please

    A quick tip about adjusting Vs and Va (and a good practice for most types of electronic adjustment)

    You should always operate the TV for about 20 minutes to allow it to come to full, normal operating temperature before performing the adjustment. This allows for the most accurate adjustment.
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  • Re: Toshiba 32DT2U1 Power Supply or Mainboard Issue?

    If you can find a shop that can replace just the EEPROM, it can be done pretty cheaply. Replacing the board is more expensive, but is also a reliable repair, as the weak EEPROM that fails has been upgraded on new boards. Once the EEPROM is replaced, they seem to be pretty reliable TVs.
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  • Re: Toshiba 32DT2U1 Power Supply or Mainboard Issue?

    A corrupted EEPROM causes this problem. I have fixed a few hundred of this model for this issue.
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  • Re: Flux: Water, No-Clean, RO - H/M/L Active.. OH MY!!



    I can absolutely tell you from over 30 years of experience as a technician in the field, that NO, it will not cause corrosion. It will perform fine in 5, or 10 or even 15 years. But be realistic. Today's technology does not NEED that kind of lifetime. The natural progression of technology seems to render most electronic devices obsolete in 10 years. I repair on average 2000-3000 pieces of electronics gear EVERY year, and corrosion of solder is just not a huge problem. So apparently, this ain't rocket science,...
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  • Re: Samsung Plasma PN50A400C2DXZA

    Not really. The parts that will cause your symptom are far more expensive than a hobbyist grade DMM. Without being able to test voltages on a plasma, you risk spending a lot of money guessing on parts. It would be wiser to buy a cheap DMM than to just start throwing parts at the thing, hoping you luck into the right one. (In my opinion)
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  • randtek
    replied to lg50pc1da
    Re: lg50pc1da

    Once you get the pictures posted, we can give you a test procedure to try to force the panel on. This can give some useful diagnostic information, based on how it behaves.
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  • Re: Samsung PN43D450A2D No Video

    You will need to test those voltages right as the TV powers up. The way I do it is to turn the TV ON, unplug the A/C cord from the rear of the set, not the wall. Put your meter lead on the test point, then plug the A/C cord back into the rear of the TV, while watching the voltage. It will probably come up, then start going back down. Repeat for both the VS and VA voltages. Reply back with the results. Tell us the highest voltage on each reading, and if it starts to go down after initially coming up.
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  • Re: 37 inch Vizio smell and screen dims to black

    Replace the board. Damage like that is sometimes repairable, but it takes some knowledge and skill to determine what needs done, what connections may have been damaged and to perform the repair. When I repair damage like that, I completely cut/grind out all of the damaged board area (necessary, as charred board can become stray resistance) , patch the hole with a good quality epoxy, re-drill any component holes, then wire it back up. As you can see, it is an involved process, not recommended for a novice.
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  • Re: 2 Vizio's down

    Please create separate threads for each TV, and provide good clear pictures of the board in each TV to help us troubleshoot. We need to be able to read lettering on the boards adn components, so good clear pictures are important.
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  • Re: Projector cooling fan backup supply

    This probably would not be an effective solution. First, it would require space inside the unit for the battery, increasing size, weight, shipping costs etc. 2nd, it would only prevent a very few premature lamp failures, since lamps only fail this way a small percentage of the time when power is lost. Usually the lamp just cools slower, but no long term damage is done to it. Third, a projector housing is a very warm environment which would probably result in premature battery failure. For all of these reasons, a battery as part of the unit...
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  • Re: Samsung Mainboard swap????

    The main boards you have are both compatible with that model. I would stick with the original TCon though.

    Maybe we could help you more if you start from the beginning. What was the original problem? How did it change when you replaced the main board? Have you checked any voltages? Give us as much history as you can, and we'll see where it takes us.
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  • Re: Help Identify CCFL Tubes

    I have also seen Chi-Mei panels with U shaped CCFLs.
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  • Re: Samsung Mainboard swap????

    You really should resist wantonly swapping boards in and out that may not be compatible. Doing so could cause damage to boards or panel. I will do some more research and let you know what I find.
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  • Interesting case: Toshiba 32AV502R Tuning(?) issue

    I work on a lot of TVs. Not many of them catch my attention as particularly interesting, but this one did.

    TV worked fine from all inputs EXCEPT tuner. When tuner input was selected. TV would continuously cycle off and back on *AS LONG AS AN ACTIVE CHANNEL WAS TUNED IN*. If TV was turned to an inactive channel, or the cable was disconnected, it would stay on and work fine. Power supply voltages tested within tolerance, but due to the cycling, I could not get a really good voltage reading when it was failing. I replaced the main board, and unit seemed to be working fine. It completed...
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  • Re: Samsung Mainboard swap????

    You will find the version number of your TV on a small sticker on the (usually) right side of the TV, as viewed from the front of the TV.
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  • Re: Samsung Mainboard swap????

    According to my research, those boards are subs for each other. But that board is not correct for all versions of that Model. How did you obtain the part number you are using? Are you sure it is the correct version?
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  • Re: Samsung LED Pros I need your advice!!!

    You could not do this without replacing the panel too. The panel for a 240hz refresh rate is a faster panel than a 120. I once saw a post on another forum where they were crowing about how they had converted their 720p Samsungs to 1080i sets by changing a setting in the option bytes. I tried to convince them that they did not make their TV a higher resolution like that, but they didn't believe me. I have a lot of experience with these sets. It will not work.
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