Or, like the rest of the world, order a litre stein. More booze = better!

I agree, yet, it's not witchcraft. It's done all the time here and it's how devices are fed with 220v: from a symmetrical breaker with over-current on each side of the circuit, because two 110's = 220. The two phases are physically linked so shutting off one side shuts off the other at the same time.
So it can work!
Sure, if they are wired in ring main, that can provide 32 amps @240v which is plenty enough to run a small apartment (say one bed with a combination kitchen / living room). Bigger house have multiple RMs, so you might have the upstairs room on one main and the downstairs in another or areas split up like an RM for the living room and kitchen and another for the bedrooms and hall.
It's perfectly normal to run high current appliances like fridges, AC, freezers, washing machines etc from a standard socket. 13amp @240v is normally plenty enough to run these devices, so we usually don't bother with separate connections for these. The exception are things like stoves and cookers, which normally have a simple 40 amp (IIRC, it's been a while) spur. Whole house AC (which is uncommon) will have its own spur too normally.
That's why my house in the UK had a small 8 panel breaker and my house in Canada (same size) has a 38 way monster with more wiring than a telephone exchange! Separate spurs for anything high power, separate spurs with two hot sides for anything 240 and the rest a horrible mishmash of parallel, split plugs and random spurs.
Another difference? Everything in the UK is protected by RCD; GFCI as North America calls it, at the main panel before it hits the breakers, so every device in the home is protected by 30ma trip. That isn't the case on my house here, there are simple breakers and nothing else unless you've wired a GFCI onto a socket. Grab a live wire here and, well, good luck!
Chris...



Leave a comment: