Power-One solar Inverter driving me NUTS!!!
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Dead end again, replaced the MOVs with no change. At least I have some fresh ones in there now in case I ever do get this thing working. I am very interested in what ssrkh said above in post 160 about jumpering the output of the CT devices to ground. I see the output pin but I am not sure what ground he is talking about. i.e. earth ground or another pin on the CT? Does anyone else have an idea?Last edited by mitsu2k; 11-29-2023, 03:31 PM. -
Then our Megger test should have shown that. And maybe it did, because one side on DC had a higher MOhms reading than the other, but cording to spec this reading was supposed to be acceptable and to me it's not.
Maybe take the CT off the DC and redo the insulation test. If it changes, your hopefully be golden afterwards.Leave a comment:
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Then our Megger test should have shown that. And maybe it did, because one side on DC had a higher MOhms reading than the other, but cording to spec this reading was supposed to be acceptable and to me it's not.
Maybe take the CT off the DC and redo the insulation test. If it changes, your hopefully be golden afterwards.Leave a comment:
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Hi ssrkh, thank you for chiming in. Couple questions if I may please...
There are two CT devices on the DC side. There are another two on the AC side. I suspect the error is on the DC side because it happens even with no AC connected. Of course there is another CT which I have already replaced so I will not bother you with that one. Attached are some photos of these CASR CT devices and the datasheet is here: LEM Catalogue CAS_CASR_CKSR_09
Can you please tell me which pins I need to jumper? Also when you say "ground", are you referring to earth ground? Just want to make sure I do it right. Thank you!Last edited by mitsu2k; 11-29-2023, 08:15 PM.Leave a comment:
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listen you guys most of the times Ground fault comes with the CT what u need to do is just bypass CT by jumpering ground to Output of the CT so u will know where the fault is comming from and after that if u have again same fault of not performing initialization completely then watchdog is getting the bit High from the EC embedded controller so replace the controller fault will gone thanks me later byeLeave a comment:
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I have a question about those 4 MOVs. When I measure voltage between positive and earth ground, I get about 145V. When I remove the MOVs and measure without them, the voltage increases to around 194V. So the MOVs are suppressing some voltage. I am wondering if these MOVs are getting weak and they should be suppressing more. I did find that the middle leg of the MOVs of the positive input is connected directly to earth ground. On the negative the middle leg is connected directly to the GRP terminals that goes to that second board. I have went ahead and ordered some new MOVs and I should have them tomorrow. So I guess time will tell if this is the problem. The thing that strikes me odd is the blue MOVs on the AC side both test greater than 4000 MegaOhms with my megger. But these red ones are far below that. I know this is not a proper test but the specs of these MOVs are similar, at least close enough so I would think the results shouldn't be that far off. Just my crazy brain thinking without the proper expertise and experience. What if these MOVs are actually there for GFCI purposes rather than surge? Any thoughts?Last edited by mitsu2k; 11-28-2023, 01:25 PM.Leave a comment:
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so it looks like gfi coincides with the 4th relay then . what is that relay for ?
maybe set your meter on megohms and check between the ground and around that 4th relay looking for leakage on the board . it does look as if the inverter is seeing leakage from somewhere .
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so it looks like gfi coincides with the 4th relay then . what is that relay for ?
maybe set your meter on megohms and check between the ground and around that 4th relay looking for leakage on the board . it does look as if the inverter is seeing leakage from somewhere .Leave a comment:
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I would like to add that the very last time I mentioned above, there were no error messages on the display. The 3 previous times I had the E031 error on the display and the alarm led was lit but no GFI light.Last edited by mitsu2k; 11-26-2023, 10:19 AM.Leave a comment:
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I did notice that there is a switch on your inverter, next to the AC connection. That is to pair or not to pair them DC inputs. I think the switch isn't set for them 2 DC ports as paired. Also there support to be a jumper between the 2 DC ports going from positive to positive and negative to negative. Putting the inverter on the DC port into paired, supposed to handle more current or something. Can't remember. Got to read that manual again.Leave a comment:
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I would mega ohm the cables from the solar panels to the inverter with out the cable being attached to the solar panels or the inverter especially if the positive and negative cables are connected to together as one cable run and or are in conduit because I ran into a situation where water had introduced into the installation of wires and were shorting out in the conduit so do not rule this one out I use a mega ohm tester to figure out why this device was blowing fuses ( how you test for this is you have one meter lead on positive wire and the other meter lead on the negative wire )
On the same note are you using outside rated cable that you are using for the wiring from the solar panels to the inverter if not you should be and should be outside rated conduit or if I was doing this I would be doing it this way
Your results should be the highest mega ohm reading that the meter ohm meter has and any thing else would be suspicious at least to me it would be or you have something wrong with inverter showing a voltage leaking situationLeave a comment:
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what is the history of this thing ? like did it work then suddenly this fault ? any other factors that may have happened just prior to this particular fault ?Leave a comment:
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I did notice that there is a switch on your inverter, next to the AC connection. That is to pair or not to pair them DC inputs. I think the switch isn't set for them 2 DC ports as paired. Also there support to be a jumper between the 2 DC ports going from positive to positive and negative to negative. Putting the inverter on the DC port into paired, supposed to handle more current or something. Can't remember. Got to read that manual again.Last edited by CapLeaker; 11-26-2023, 05:59 AM.Leave a comment:
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I would mega ohm the cables from the solar panels to the inverter with out the cable being attached to the solar panels or the inverter especially if the positive and negative cables are connected to together as one cable run and or are in conduit because I ran into a situation where water had introduced into the installation of wires and were shorting out in the conduit so do not rule this one out I use a mega ohm tester to figure out why this device was blowing fuses ( how you test for this is you have one meter lead on positive wire and the other meter lead on the negative wire )
On the same note are you using outside rated cable that you are using for the wiring from the solar panels to the inverter if not you should be and should be outside rated conduit or if I was doing this I would be doing it this way
Your results should be the highest mega ohm reading that the meter ohm meter has and any thing else would be suspicious at least to me it would be or you have something wrong with inverter showing a voltage leaking situationLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 11-26-2023, 04:28 AM.Leave a comment:
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I only have one string. All panels face the same direction. I am using only one DC port but I have tried connecting to the second one as well, and got the same resultsLeave a comment:
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Yours isn't an A model. It doesn't have that fat ass clamp contraption. When you hook that inverter back up to test, you put one or both strings to it? Are you using both DC ports? The solar panels face all in the same direction?Leave a comment:
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Ok I did the test outlined in the manual. (Positive shorted to Negative) at 250v on the megger to earth ground.
result= >4000 MegaOhms on the megger (full scale). All good here.Leave a comment:
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HI Pete, I now know what you are talking about "A" models. Mine is not an "A" model. I found the manual that you must have been looking at. It appears that these have a built in Arc detection feature as well as some other features. For example, the "Autotest" feature is non existent in my inverter. I even looked under the service menu. I was able to find a key generator in order to access this menu.
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