User Profile

Collapse

Profile Sidebar

Collapse
valvashon
valvashon
Senior Member
Last Activity: 03-04-2026, 07:12 AM
Joined: 10-27-2020
Location: Seattle, WA
  •  
  • Time
  • Show
  • Source
Clear All
new posts

  • Magnavox 32MF337B/27: Green and purple "haze" around objects, clears up in about 15 minutes



    These two pictures are representative of what the TV looks like when first turned on. In the first picture, note the green haze on the right side of the anchor's face, blown out forehead and oddly colored background (Mt. Rainier). Second picture shows it even more extreme with the green and purple haze on the face of the person being interviewed. Note also how the lower third graphics on the first picture seem unaffected.



    PIcture 3 shows the same anchor with correct skin tone and the dress in the correct color with no greenish haze; same for the traffic...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by valvashon; 03-02-2026, 06:35 PM. Reason: mis-spelled word

  • Adding battery pack to MiddleAtlantic UPS 2200R

    My MiddleAtlatnic UPS 2200R has a connector on the back for an external battery pack for extending the run time. The one that MiddleAtlantic sells has 48 volt in and out jacks to daisy chain up to 10 of them and also an AC plug suggesting that it has it's own charging circuit. Would there be any issues with hanging a home built 48 volt battery pack on the end of the actual UPS unit? The home built one would consist of 4 12v/5ah batteries connected to produce 48 volts, which I would then connect to the main UPS unit.
    My concern is will the "dumb" external battery pack charge...
    See more | Go to post

  • These might work for you as the part number you specified are obsolete. Digi-Key does suggest three similar MOSFET's but this is what I used as replacements in my BN4400808D board.

    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...ANAaTlRAF0BfIA

    You can compare the specifications and see if they will work for you.

    Val
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • I don't know about your exact board but MOSFET's and dual-diode units are weak spots on the Samsung power supplies. Look for my thread about this Samsung model number- UN65KU6290F. It may provide some useful direction for you.

    Val...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • This might help others so I thought I would share my eventual fix (?) for this. When I got the TV back to the bench I removed the back cover and the lower metal piece covering the ribbon cables that go to the panel. Found that when I pushed down on the one just below the vertical lines they went away. When the cable was let go, it would come back. Some office grade double stick tape solved the problem or so I thought. Upon coming back from a long weekend I found the tape had let go but the vertical lines did not return. Pushing on the cable did not trigger them either, but I thought I should...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Samsung UN60JU6500, stripe on left side of screen

    Friend sent me this picture of what their 60" Samsung from 2015 is doing. I didn't have any luck getting rid of a vertical stripe in another TV that developed one so I'm not too excited about trying to fix this one. It's mine for the asking; wish it had a dead power supply or bad backlights instead.

    Is this most likely to be a connection at the circuit board or where the ribbon cable hits the screen itself?

    Update: was just informed that this stripe comes and goes and has been doing this for a couple of months.

    Thanks, Val



    ...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by valvashon; 11-21-2025, 03:14 PM. Reason: Added more info

  • Sharp R-930CS microwave/convection oven, dim display

    Older microwave/convection oven I picked for free on Marketplace. Previous owner replaced turntable motor which didn't fit in the mounting hole properly. Shaft was at an angle causing plastic thing that fits onto it to eventually break. Filed the hole bigger, fitted the motor correctly, put on a new plastic thing, all (almost) is OK.

    The fluorescent display is quite dim. The camera doesn't see what the eye sees so these pictures are brighter than what the display really looks like:



    As you can see even from these pictures, the tops and bottoms of the...
    See more | Go to post

  • OK, there seems to be some confusion about this board and what I have done to it so far. The 4 capacitors in the 5 volt and 12 volt supply have been changed out during "parts cannon" day. The two tall black ones are 470 uf/25 volt Panasonic caps, replacing C915 and C922. C915 was 470/16 and the old one currently checks at 441uF. C922 was 470/25 and the old one currently checks at 458uF. These two black Panasonic capacitors will stay in place. The red one is a 330/16 volt "Wurth" capacitor replacing C917. The old C917 currently checks at 345 and will be put back in the...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Insignia NS-LCD19-09 (third and final post, hopefully!)

    I have been going round and round with this one for a couple of years. It's a 16x10 display that allows you to size your OTA picture correctly to 16x9 and that makes it kind of cool so I really want to keep it on my OTA monitoring wall. Accidentially let a screw roll under the powered power supply board and ended up replacing the MOSFET drivers for the inverters, then one of the Schottky rectifiers for one of the supplies, then the PS caps becuase I fired the parts cannon at it one day.

    Problem was no cold startup; it would only startup when you applied a heat gun to the board....
    See more | Go to post

  • 32" Philips PAL TV from India- should I get it or leave it for somebody else?

    I know this isn't troubleshooting related but thought it was the best place to ask. There is a supposedly working 32" Philips flat screen originally from India for free near me on FB Marketplace. It's a PAL receiver but will do NTSC (?) from the HDMI inputs. Will add the model number later. I like quirky stuff but have plenty of TV's/monitors around so I don't really know what to do with it. Should I get it and see if there is a compatible NTSC/ATSC tuner board that could be swapped in?

    Val
    See more | Go to post

  • I'm a Mac user so it's going to be kind of rough for me but I will attempt to run those diagnostic tools on mine and see what I get. I probably have the Middle Atlantic Power Manager on a disc somewhere and have an old Toshiba laptop that I can use for this. Honest question- what's Network UPS tools and usbhid-ups driver and where do I get them? Sounds like software or a driver that needs to be installed, not a physical USB connection device, correct?

    I'm also suspicious of the fact that it seems to run normally when the shore power is disconnected, like mine did. The relay switching...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by valvashon; 06-25-2025, 10:07 AM. Reason: Added second idea.

    Leave a comment:


  • On my Samsung board I had a bad dual diode unit that was between the similarly numbered MOSFET's- you might check that if it exists on your board. The first couple of numbers of our PS boards are the same but they are quite different boards.

    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...rd-blows-fuses...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Finally got around to getting some new LED strips for this TV. I've only worked on relatively small screens so far (24" and smaller) so I found this size of TV a little intimidating as I was sure it would be much easier to break the screen given the sheer size. I pulled the back cover off, then removed the speakers and the power button assembly. I then removed the metal frame from the TV (there are many small Philips head screws to remove) and laid the TV back down using painters tape to hold the glass in place at several places and the corners. This has to be done as at this point the glass...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Finally put this TV back together- they don't make it easy to change out CCFL's do they? This set was significantly more difficult than the Vizio I did a few years ago. Here's what it looks like at startup, you can see some of what I believe is called the halo effect at the top and bottom of the screen (it's currently subbing in for my 50" Samsung which explains the overly large mount):



    When there's a picture on the screen it's really not too objectionable. Not sure if this set had this problem originally as it never actually turned on during my time of ownership....
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Samsung UN55FH6030CXZA main board USB jack indentification

    Samsung UN55FH6030CXZA main board, BN41-01894, bad USB jack. Jack is mangled and needs replacing with like. Jack is marked "Simula" with the number 130318. Search for Simula turns up a weak looking website of a company that seems/seemed to supply USB jacks and other USB technology but no current items turn up for sale.

    I should be able to research and find something applicable through a Digi-Key search after I unsolder/cut out this one and measure the mounting/pin connection pattern on the board but I thought I'd ask here to see if anybody knows of an exact make/model...
    See more | Go to post

  • Here's a sample of what I found on the CCFL's. This is the top assembly, I've already taken the bottom assembly apart to measure them and they looked about the same. The size I need is on sale for $5 each at CCFL warehouse so this is affordable even though I won't see a return on investment. I've got about $30 into it and will be lucky to sell it for $10 if I don't have to give it away. With new caps and new CCFL's it will probably last forever....
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Turns out it wasn't that easy of a fix. The caps in the power supply were bad but once replaced all it would show is a lit screen for a moment then it would go dark again. That's the classic bad backlight problem with TV's that have CCFL's in them but fortunately the correct size is on sale for $5 each at the CCFL warehouse. In for a penny, in for a pound and I'll end up with a TV for me or somebody else that will last literally for years with new backlights and legitimate caps in the power supply.

    Dynex!
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • I did find an "iFixit" for this but it's light on the details. What voltage should I look for at the LED driver connector to make sure it's the LED's and not the board?
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • LG 55UH6150- trouble powering up, then half lit screen (pictures!)

    The 55" LG has been in the basement for a few months without being used. Turned it on yesterday, set came on as it should and showed a complete screen for about 5 seconds (was on a broadcast channel but no antenna was connected), then the screen went mostly dark with about 1/3 of the screen on the right lighting up with brighter lines in that lit part (sorry, no pictures of that). Power LED was cycling too, preventing the TV from fully powering up.
    Pulled the back off, all boards looked OK. Pulled the LED connector, turned the set on to see if it would power up but I don't belive it...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by valvashon; 11-24-2024, 12:13 PM.

  • It's nice to have an easy job occasionally...

    While it won't be worth it at all to replace the bulging caps on this Dynex 21" TV, I'm going to do it anyway to keep it out of the landfill. I'll probably end up giving it away but fixing stuff feels good. And yes, I will be replacing all of those PS caps.

    Val...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by valvashon; 10-07-2024, 02:27 PM. Reason: added sentence at end
No activity results to display
Show More
Working...