[URL=filedata/fetch?id=3561239&d=1738341001][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tIMG_6232.jpg Views:\t0 Size:\t1.39 MB ID:\t3561239","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"3561239","data-size":"medium"}[/ATTACH][/URL]...
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Finally put this TV back together- they don't make it easy to change out CCFL's do they? This set was significantly more difficult than the Vizio I did a few years ago. Here's what it looks like at startup, you can see some of what I believe is called the halo effect at the top and bottom of the screen (it's currently subbing in for my 50" Samsung which explains the overly large mount):
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Samsung UN55FH6030CXZA main board USB jack indentification
Samsung UN55FH6030CXZA main board, BN41-01894, bad USB jack. Jack is mangled and needs replacing with like. Jack is marked "Simula" with the number 130318. Search for Simula turns up a weak looking website of a company that seems/seemed to supply USB jacks and other USB technology but no current items turn up for sale.
I [I]should[/I] be able to research and find something applicable through a Digi-Key search after I unsolder/cut out this one and measure the mounting/pin connection pattern on the board but I thought I'd ask here to see if anybody knows of an exact make/model...
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[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3545048}[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3545049}[/ATTACH] Here's a sample of what I found on the CCFL's. This is the top assembly, I've already taken the bottom assembly apart to measure them and they looked about the same. The size I need is on sale for $5 each at CCFL warehouse so this is affordable even though I won't see a return on investment. I've got about $30 into...
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Turns out it wasn't that easy of a fix. The caps in the power supply were bad but once replaced all it would show is a lit screen for a moment then it would go dark again. That's the classic bad backlight problem with TV's that have CCFL's in them but fortunately the correct size is on sale for $5 each at the CCFL warehouse. In for a penny, in for a pound and I'll end up with a TV for me or somebody else that will last literally for years with new backlights and legitimate caps in the power supply.
Dynex!
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LG 55UH6150- trouble powering up, then half lit screen (pictures!)
The 55" LG has been in the basement for a few months without being used. Turned it on yesterday, set came on as it should and showed a complete screen for about 5 seconds (was on a broadcast channel but no antenna was connected), then the screen went mostly dark with about 1/3 of the screen on the right lighting up with brighter lines in that lit part (sorry, no pictures of that). Power LED was cycling too, preventing the TV from fully powering up.
Pulled the back off, all boards looked OK. Pulled the LED connector, turned the set on to see if it would power up but I don't belive it...Last edited by valvashon; 11-24-2024, 12:13 PM.
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It's nice to have an easy job occasionally...
While it won't be worth it at all to replace the bulging caps on this Dynex 21" TV, I'm going to do it anyway to keep it out of the landfill. I'll probably end up giving it away but fixing stuff feels good. And yes, I will be replacing all of those PS caps.
Val...
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Checked and found that the power MOSFET was good. Did some more component research and found that the likely culprit is the IP2326 chip, in the circuit as a 5 volt boost charging module. I found a very similar circuit board on AliExpress where it boosts the 5 volts in to 12.6 volts for battery charging. I purchased that board and was going to somehow tag it onto the bad massage gun board using it to charge and the massage gun board to operate the motor.
I could still do that but the best fix would be to replace the chip on the bad board. I am experience in board level repair and soldering...
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Bob and Brad QL/MINI massage gun not charging
My (legitimate) massage therapist gave this to me to try to fix last time I saw here. Complaint was that it simply wouldn't turn on anymore. B&B have a rediculous return policy where you have to make a 3 minute video showing what the problem is, etc. Rather than mess with that Dana let me take it to try to fix it.
Verified that it wouldn't turn on. Don't remember trying to charge it before I took it apart. Found that the motor turned freely. Pulled the battery connector apart to check the voltage and the battery voltage was good- fully charged in fact at 11.3 volts. Plugged battery...
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Look up the relays and see how they should be connected inside when they are not powered (in other words, what contacts are NO and what are NC. Measure with your ohmmeter before you unsolder any from the circuit. This is how I tracked down a bad/welded relay in a MiddleAtlantic 2200 (very similar device). It had different symptoms but you should search out my thread for tips on how to diagnose. When I unsoldered the relay the welded contacts let go and it measured continuity as it should but of course it was burnt up inside and couldn't be used again. This is why you measure before unsoldering....
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Samsung UN65KU6290F fails again
Samsung UN65KU6290F- this is the Buy Nothing TV that I received several years ago and just got around to fixing last December. The board had a failed MOSFET and dual diode and would blow the fuse the instant power was applied. Replaced both MOSFET's and that dual diode in that part of the supply and it stared workign again. Now, 6 months later, it developed a screen problem overnight. Last night it was working fine, then this morning I have a bunch of random vertical lines. Sound works and you can tell that you are changing channels, you just can't really see anyting on the screen. It's been on...
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I would try replacing the transistor first. If you have component level experience repairing things via soldering and a good soldering station with low heat and a very sharp tip you should be able to replace that transistor. Buy 5 or so, they are cheap and if you screw up one or one goes flying off into space you can still do the repair. After that try it again and see what the screen looks like, you may not have damaged the traces.
Val
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Toshiba EM131A5C-BS microwave oven- noisy EE16 2.7 mH inductor
This poor microwave oven was purchased by my former employer in 2019 (it's a 7/2018 build) and lasted for about 3 months before making a terrible noise when in use. I determined that it was the main transformer and contacted Toshiba. They asked for a picture of the cord cut in half and the serial number, and then credited my boss' credit card. Rather than sending it to the e-waste, I bought a transformer on eBay and thought I'd try flipping it. Discovered that used microwave ovens aren't worth much but in for a penny, in for a pound as they say. It sat in my basement getting kicked and shoved...
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Repair Success! Middle Atlantic UPS2200R-IP
Yesterday I successfully repaired a Middle Atlantic UPS2200R-IP that had inadvertently been used as a surge suppressor at our transmitter site. It has already been replaced with an updated one but it's coming home with me now instead of being e-cycled. To be specific, this is the MA model that has the blue backlit display and has been discontinued, although this design may have been used in many UPS units including the smaller Middle Atlantic ones in this series.
[URL=filedata/fetch?id=3211577&d=1707245389][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tUPS-2200R-IP_main.webp...
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The FET's are marked the same as the ones that came out of there although of course they could be counterfeit. Digikey shows this part number as a "last time buy" starting in 6/2024 so fakes could already be popping up. Schematic shows the higher current ones but the lower current ones were on the board before I started shorting things out.
The set would power up and stay powered up (the first time on startup) when I had one or the other backlight connectors pulled. Dim screen during startup but then it went black. Could still hear audio; I assume that the screen going...
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Replaced the shorted MOSFET's with eBay specials from across the ocean. Marked FDS8958A, they could of course be counterfeit but as you can see, the TV now works. Would love to now thank everybody for their help but of course the saga continues. The set will turn on and come up with a picture, but then turn off after 5-10 seconds. Subsequent turn on's will produce a flash of a screen, then turn off again. It takes 4-5 tries to actually...
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