Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

[Namenotfound]

Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

wanna sell me an A strip? lol!!

[Namenotfound]

Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

wanna sell me an A strip!! LOL !!
i successful transplanted led chips but i lacked the little black specks that were blown up as well i assumed they were fuses but believe i was mistaken.

[Zimbo]

Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

Hi Freakafter8,

I have the same tv. I kno this is an old post but hoping you can tell me what you did to prevent breaking the front when you lift it off. Did you slide it onto something or use suction cups or push it up from one side?

Thanks

[my-name-is-john]

Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

My TV (same model) has the same problem. Ordered strips off of Ebay and will be installing them soon. Will attempt the "suction cup" with 3-4 people to lift the LCD. Hopefully when successful will post pictures of a fixed LED strip (or will post a cracked 75" LCD panel).

Another note: this "DIM bar" happened a while ago on our TV. after about two months or so of the 'dim bar' the power supply blew (on Capacitor, the thermistor, and maybe something else). Not sure if the power supply was the issue, or if the bad LEDs caused the power supply to eventually blow. Replaced the power supply and still had the dim bar. I would recommend limiting TV use though until the LEDs are fixed, just in case.

Another thread that describes the dim LED issue:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...ht=UN75F6300AF

[my-name-is-john]

Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

UPDATE: FIXED LED STRIP on 75"TV !!!
First, I need to say, my UN75F6300 is a bit unique. When we first bought it, it was our third TV in three months. My ~5 year old son at the time loved throwing things and in the span of a year had broken: A cell phone, a digital camera, a game controller, and two large LCDs on TVs. For protection, we put Velcro adhesive around the perimeter of our UN75F6300 and attached the thinnest piece of Lexan (020?) Amazon had. I say this only because I *THINK* having this added material on the TV helped with stiffening up the TV frame during this LED repair. Without the LEXAN, *I THINK* the LCD would have cracked doing the repair.

Second: I don't think I did it the "RIGHT way" and I caution anyone who attempts this. I've done a lot of crazy things in my life (V8 Engine swap, Home delivery of two children, head spacing adjustment on a rifle, Replacing a first floor load bearing wall with a header, felling a 100' tree that is 20' from my house). This ranks up there with those. Go into this assuming you are going to crack the LCD, and live with it.

Now, HOW I did it:

Tools: screw drivers, TV Wall Mount, thin cardboard squares (~4"x4"), strong filament tape (~1/2" width). Optional: UV adhesive, such as BONDIC.

Processes: verrrry slowwwwly, with at least two very patient people (i.e. not teenage sons).

It's simple enough, lay the TV down on a soft floor, LCD down. This was on a carpet with 1/2" padding. there are two black covers on the back (aluminum center section first, and plastic perimeter section second) that come off fairly easy (not shown). There might be some electrical wires connected to those, remove those. take your time. Your TV should look something like the marked up photo now. Next you remove, in no particular order:
1) Yellow lines - aluminum tape (long lines) and other adhesive tape (smaller lines) around the perimeter. I believe the aluminum tape is for ground continuity, so be sure to save it to reapply later. There were other smaller adhesive strips that...I wasn't sure what they did...and didn't reinstall them...
2) Blue circles - Remove the speakers and disconnect the ribbon cables (very carefully)
3) Red circles - remove screws and metal attachments that cover/protect the LCD ribbon cables (VERRY CAREFULLY!)

I left the control board and power supply installed, but I disconnected the LED power connections when working on an LED strip. I reconnected them only to test. Lots of high voltage so I used extreme caution.

With those parts removed, I removed the 30ish black screws around the perimeter. These hold the LED framework to the black plastic TV frame.

Next I reinstalled one of the screws into each corner location (orangeXs) used it as a lifting point. I then very slowly and methodically lifted up each corner of the LED frame a bit. take your time, work each corner and edge slowly as you go around. This is where you break the LCD (hopefully NOT!). I'll note that I heard many 'cracks' and 'pops' as I was doing this, and thinking each crack and pop was a crack in my LCD. At this point there's no way to tell, so you have to keep working, and working slowly. There are black plastic tabs that I couldn't figure out how or what they were connected to, but had to be disconnected to lift up the LED frame. Once I was able to see a corner separated from the LCD/diffusers/etc, I placed a ~4"x4" piece of scrap cardboard between the two frames (Metal LED frame and plastic LCD frame), to keep that corner separated. I continued to work my way round, lifting each edge and putting a cardboard piece at each corner. In the end I was able to see daylight across to know I can then lift the LED frame.

I also re-installed the wall mount back into it's mounting holes (purple Xs). I used this as a lifting point. One person can lift at the wall mount, to help the frame move upward uniformly. You do not want anything to bend. Once I was confident the LED frame could be removed, two people lifted up the LED frame (one at each end) while a third person watched to make sure nothing got snagged. Go slowly, especially around the LCD ribbon cables.

We lifted the LED Frame off and leaned it up against a shelf to allow us to work on it vertically. The LCD and diffuser sheets are very vulnerable in this configuration, and you don't want any dust/cat hair/kids getting on it at this point.

Once the LED frame is removed, the inspection is straightforward. In my case it was obvious that one LED had blown (photos) and I was able to see some small electronic component had blown on the strip as well. Note though, that for the dim bar I was seeing, three rows were actually out. Each row is made up of three strips. I had only bought one strip so I freaked out a bit here. I also noted that the upper & lower rows that were out were actually dimly flickering. They were getting some power, but because they are (probably) on the same series as the bad LED they weren't functioning properly. I only replaced the one strip with the blown LED/blown electronic components that was in the middle row and all LEDs powered up (SUCCESS!). Important Notes:
1) To remove the strip, I cut through some very strong Filament tape. It looked like it had fiberglass in it. I don't know that it was necessary to hold the LED strip in place, but plan on using some to reinstall your new strip. Can't use conductive/aluminum tape due to the short-circuit risk, I think.
2) there are clear plastic spacers that keep the diffuser sheets and LCD in place. these are removed with a simple twist. Be sure you Get ALL of them before removing the white backer.
3) The white LED backer has to be removed (Gently) and is held in place with some adhesive. I only had to remove the 'left' side of the backer to access the strip I was replacing. Be careful not to pop off the LED covers while you do this. I'm a big fan of BONDIC (https://notaglue.com/) and was able to use this to replace one LED cover that fell off. I've used this stuff on a ton of delicate repair jobs and it works great. Can't hold a person to an I-Beam like super glue, but much easier to work with.
4) knowing what I know now, I probably would want three rows on hand. You don't want to have to do this repair once, let alone twice.

Reinstall everything in reverse. The hardest part is putting the LED frame back onto the LCD and it's frame. Take your time. Again I heard many "cracks" and "PoPs" while doing this and thinking "I just cracked the LCD!" I think it is the plastic frame that wraps around the LED frame, or just little tabs that crack. My teenage sons were also getting a bit impatient, so make sure you have a large supply of patience here. Wiggle the LED frame around. eventually you should get to the point where the screw holes for the plastic frame and threads on the metal LED frame line up near perfectly. I think the plastic frame also cracked at a corner and ***BECAUSE I had the LEXAN cover on the front, it held in place.*** without that velcro/Lexan reinforcement, I think the plastic frame would have moved, the LCD would have dropped out, and I'd be buying a new TV.

The second hardest part is remembering to re-install the speakers. Fortunately we use surround sound

In the end, TV works, it looks beautiful and SUPER BOWL LV is just around the corner.

[brucetv]

Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

May I suggest anyone that wants to do any backlight repair to ALWAYS replace the whole strip kit, not just the strips that have a short. If one is shorted you can bet the others are getting ready to go. Especially on models that have a history of bad backlights like this model does. For $160 from Shopjimmy.com you have your nice 75" Tv back on the wall with all fresh led's. Set the picture setting to Standard and scroll down to backlights and bring them down to 12, no more than 14. Never run your Tv on Dynamic as this brings the backlights up to 20. Spend a little extra and get the suction cups they sell too. You'll be glad you did moving a 75" panel. And when you have a bad lightning storm coming through unplug the tv and hdmi's. Your Tv will last alot longer.