Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

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  • brucetv
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    May I suggest anyone that wants to do any backlight repair to ALWAYS replace the whole strip kit, not just the strips that have a short. If one is shorted you can bet the others are getting ready to go. Especially on models that have a history of bad backlights like this model does. For $160 from Shopjimmy.com you have your nice 75" Tv back on the wall with all fresh led's. Set the picture setting to Standard and scroll down to backlights and bring them down to 12, no more than 14. Never run your Tv on Dynamic as this brings the backlights up to 20. Spend a little extra and get the suction cups they sell too. You'll be glad you did moving a 75" panel. And when you have a bad lightning storm coming through unplug the tv and hdmi's. Your Tv will last alot longer.

    Leave a comment:


  • my-name-is-john
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    UPDATE: FIXED LED STRIP on 75"TV !!!
    First, I need to say, my UN75F6300 is a bit unique. When we first bought it, it was our third TV in three months. My ~5 year old son at the time loved throwing things and in the span of a year had broken: A cell phone, a digital camera, a game controller, and two large LCDs on TVs. For protection, we put Velcro adhesive around the perimeter of our UN75F6300 and attached the thinnest piece of Lexan (020?) Amazon had. I say this only because I *THINK* having this added material on the TV helped with stiffening up the TV frame during this LED repair. Without the LEXAN, *I THINK* the LCD would have cracked doing the repair.

    Second: I don't think I did it the "RIGHT way" and I caution anyone who attempts this. I've done a lot of crazy things in my life (V8 Engine swap, Home delivery of two children, head spacing adjustment on a rifle, Replacing a first floor load bearing wall with a header, felling a 100' tree that is 20' from my house). This ranks up there with those. Go into this assuming you are going to crack the LCD, and live with it.

    Now, HOW I did it:

    Tools: screw drivers, TV Wall Mount, thin cardboard squares (~4"x4"), strong filament tape (~1/2" width). Optional: UV adhesive, such as BONDIC.

    Processes: verrrry slowwwwly, with at least two very patient people (i.e. not teenage sons).

    It's simple enough, lay the TV down on a soft floor, LCD down. This was on a carpet with 1/2" padding. there are two black covers on the back (aluminum center section first, and plastic perimeter section second) that come off fairly easy (not shown). There might be some electrical wires connected to those, remove those. take your time. Your TV should look something like the marked up photo now. Next you remove, in no particular order:
    1) Yellow lines - aluminum tape (long lines) and other adhesive tape (smaller lines) around the perimeter. I believe the aluminum tape is for ground continuity, so be sure to save it to reapply later. There were other smaller adhesive strips that...I wasn't sure what they did...and didn't reinstall them...
    2) Blue circles - Remove the speakers and disconnect the ribbon cables (very carefully)
    3) Red circles - remove screws and metal attachments that cover/protect the LCD ribbon cables (VERRY CAREFULLY!)

    I left the control board and power supply installed, but I disconnected the LED power connections when working on an LED strip. I reconnected them only to test. Lots of high voltage so I used extreme caution.

    With those parts removed, I removed the 30ish black screws around the perimeter. These hold the LED framework to the black plastic TV frame.

    Next I reinstalled one of the screws into each corner location (orangeXs) used it as a lifting point. I then very slowly and methodically lifted up each corner of the LED frame a bit. take your time, work each corner and edge slowly as you go around. This is where you break the LCD (hopefully NOT!). I'll note that I heard many 'cracks' and 'pops' as I was doing this, and thinking each crack and pop was a crack in my LCD. At this point there's no way to tell, so you have to keep working, and working slowly. There are black plastic tabs that I couldn't figure out how or what they were connected to, but had to be disconnected to lift up the LED frame. Once I was able to see a corner separated from the LCD/diffusers/etc, I placed a ~4"x4" piece of scrap cardboard between the two frames (Metal LED frame and plastic LCD frame), to keep that corner separated. I continued to work my way round, lifting each edge and putting a cardboard piece at each corner. In the end I was able to see daylight across to know I can then lift the LED frame.

    I also re-installed the wall mount back into it's mounting holes (purple Xs). I used this as a lifting point. One person can lift at the wall mount, to help the frame move upward uniformly. You do not want anything to bend. Once I was confident the LED frame could be removed, two people lifted up the LED frame (one at each end) while a third person watched to make sure nothing got snagged. Go slowly, especially around the LCD ribbon cables.

    We lifted the LED Frame off and leaned it up against a shelf to allow us to work on it vertically. The LCD and diffuser sheets are very vulnerable in this configuration, and you don't want any dust/cat hair/kids getting on it at this point.

    Once the LED frame is removed, the inspection is straightforward. In my case it was obvious that one LED had blown (photos) and I was able to see some small electronic component had blown on the strip as well. Note though, that for the dim bar I was seeing, three rows were actually out. Each row is made up of three strips. I had only bought one strip so I freaked out a bit here. I also noted that the upper & lower rows that were out were actually dimly flickering. They were getting some power, but because they are (probably) on the same series as the bad LED they weren't functioning properly. I only replaced the one strip with the blown LED/blown electronic components that was in the middle row and all LEDs powered up (SUCCESS!). Important Notes:
    1) To remove the strip, I cut through some very strong Filament tape. It looked like it had fiberglass in it. I don't know that it was necessary to hold the LED strip in place, but plan on using some to reinstall your new strip. Can't use conductive/aluminum tape due to the short-circuit risk, I think.
    2) there are clear plastic spacers that keep the diffuser sheets and LCD in place. these are removed with a simple twist. Be sure you Get ALL of them before removing the white backer.
    3) The white LED backer has to be removed (Gently) and is held in place with some adhesive. I only had to remove the 'left' side of the backer to access the strip I was replacing. Be careful not to pop off the LED covers while you do this. I'm a big fan of BONDIC (https://notaglue.com/) and was able to use this to replace one LED cover that fell off. I've used this stuff on a ton of delicate repair jobs and it works great. Can't hold a person to an I-Beam like super glue, but much easier to work with.
    4) knowing what I know now, I probably would want three rows on hand. You don't want to have to do this repair once, let alone twice.

    Reinstall everything in reverse. The hardest part is putting the LED frame back onto the LCD and it's frame. Take your time. Again I heard many "cracks" and "PoPs" while doing this and thinking "I just cracked the LCD!" I think it is the plastic frame that wraps around the LED frame, or just little tabs that crack. My teenage sons were also getting a bit impatient, so make sure you have a large supply of patience here. Wiggle the LED frame around. eventually you should get to the point where the screw holes for the plastic frame and threads on the metal LED frame line up near perfectly. I think the plastic frame also cracked at a corner and ***BECAUSE I had the LEXAN cover on the front, it held in place.*** without that velcro/Lexan reinforcement, I think the plastic frame would have moved, the LCD would have dropped out, and I'd be buying a new TV.

    The second hardest part is remembering to re-install the speakers. Fortunately we use surround sound

    In the end, TV works, it looks beautiful and SUPER BOWL LV is just around the corner.
    Attached Files

    if you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site

    Leave a comment:


  • my-name-is-john
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    My TV (same model) has the same problem. Ordered strips off of Ebay and will be installing them soon. Will attempt the "suction cup" with 3-4 people to lift the LCD. Hopefully when successful will post pictures of a fixed LED strip (or will post a cracked 75" LCD panel).

    Another note: this "DIM bar" happened a while ago on our TV. after about two months or so of the 'dim bar' the power supply blew (on Capacitor, the thermistor, and maybe something else). Not sure if the power supply was the issue, or if the bad LEDs caused the power supply to eventually blow. Replaced the power supply and still had the dim bar. I would recommend limiting TV use though until the LEDs are fixed, just in case.

    Another thread that describes the dim LED issue:
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...ht=UN75F6300AF

    Leave a comment:


  • Zimbo
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    Hi Freakafter8,

    I have the same tv. I kno this is an old post but hoping you can tell me what you did to prevent breaking the front when you lift it off. Did you slide it onto something or use suction cups or push it up from one side?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Namenotfound
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    wanna sell me an A strip!! LOL !!
    i successful transplanted led chips but i lacked the little black specks that were blown up as well i assumed they were fuses but believe i was mistaken.

    Leave a comment:


  • Namenotfound
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    wanna sell me an A strip? lol!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Namenotfound
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    sorry I have not completed repairs... economical downturns (I'm broke and cannot find another cheap strip also i was rushed by my wife and haphazardly bought the wrong strip)

    Leave a comment:


  • dskall
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    They should go back to ccfl's. There's over 300 potential fail points in a 75" led tv

    Leave a comment:


  • danno8
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    Was your repair successful? I have the same issue with the same model TV.

    Leave a comment:


  • Namenotfound
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    I dont know where my last post went but I was able to disassemble from the back . However, I will reassemble towards the front. The problem seems obvious, but I will test the others as soon as figure out how/where. Heres some pics of the led and the damage. The previous owner said it wet out in two phases. First a dark line across the center then the whole top. The last photo is an led. I have no clue where the rest of the blob went. The second to last photo is what I'm assuming is a fuse. Hopefully I only need one strip!
    Attached Files

    if you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site

    Leave a comment:


  • Namenotfound
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    Originally posted by freakaftr8
    In your case unfortunately it is really hard to tell which part of each of the three strips could be causing the problem the only thing I can advise you is to test each individual led with a voltmeter set in diode check mode. This load wallahi led to light up under testing but first we need to figure out how you're going to be able to open this thing up. Not an easy job. You need to completely remove the back.

    You need to lay the TV down now face up so the screen is facing up. They will be tape around the panel frame he had to remove all the tape and that will expose all the screws holding the grey bezel to the LCD screen

    There are like two dozen screws that need to be removed from the LCD bezel. Once you get that done have a helper carefully lift the bezel up off of the screen and away from the TV. The next step is to unscrew the driver boards that connect to the LCD screen on the bottom of the TV. Once you do this you can carefully disconnect the white ribbon cables that connect those driver Boards to the t-con bored. Mcd s you need to make sure that all cables are free and away from the panel this is a very tedious process you cannot tug on any of the ribbons because you will destroy the panel. Now if you can get the driver boards free in carefully hanging down so they're not attached anything anymore you can take them to the panel this wrap them around forward ways and take them so they're not hanging when you have to lift the panel up and out of the TV. The next step is to get about three or four guys and carefully lift the LCD out of the TV in live somewhere safe and flat so it's not flexed. Then you have to remove all the black plastic Plastic panel frame pieces that hold the panel steady And in place. These just simply unsnap and move on the way. Take note at which one is coming off of what side. Now that you got this out of the way the hard part is over. Now you have to remove the white diffuser sheets out of the TV notice that there are two very thin sheets and one very thick piece of plastic the whole thing is to come out as a whole don't separate the sheets you will get dust between them And when it goes to reassembling your TV you will see it and it will look horrible. Anyway now that you're at this point You should be seeing the LEDs Now. At this point you have these plastic retainer clips that hold the diffuser from falling back in the panel they are wedge-shaped in you twisting counterclockwise 1/4 turn and they pop right out. Only need to remove enough to peel the white plastic sheet back to expose the first three LED strips since those are the ones that are not working.. access point you're safe to take a voltmeter and put it in diode check mode and you will see copper points on the LED strips we can test across for each individual led. Technically this is the only way you're going to find out which one is bad unfortunately the TV will not work when you remove a strip because of a balancing System. If you get this TV to this point start taking pictures of your progress so you remember how to put it back together. This is a very daunting process but if done correctly in very carefully you will fix your TV. Even for someone like me is experiences I am at TV repair still makes me nervous when I have to disassemble a 75 inch LCD screen. The difference is I had to do it by myself
    I just inhereited this same tv with the same problem, and I'm limited in space. If i remove the screws from the bottom and set it on the bottom; will i be able to continue the disassembly?

    Leave a comment:


  • brucetv
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    We have a service contract with a sports bar that has 12 of these beasts and wanted to point out a problem we have seen twice on this model. I have found signs of two pins arcing inside the connector from the Power Supply to the Main Board. I'll include pictures of what damage it does and in our case was causing a intermittent shut down. We don't know if it's a defect in the cable or in the Power Supply but we have gotten away with replacing the 20 pin connector from a old board on the Power Supply and ordering a new cable. I like to tape the connectors and tape the cables down to the chassis good because they are in a loud environment with a lot of vibration. We thought at first a bad led was shorting and causing the shutdown but we used a led tester and they all fired up fine so we knew there was another problem.
    Attached Files

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    Leave a comment:


  • jessekilgore
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    Originally posted by Gv137a
    Thanks

    Im pretty sure i will not be able to do this after reading that

    Ill ask my electrician friend at work. Ill have him read this thread.

    I would hate to ask him to help then have the set go bad.

    Ill get the s/n off the led monday

    This will probably be something ill have to live with

    Thanks
    Hello GV137a, did you get this repair done? I have a strip of LEDs to replace this tomorrow. I was wonding:

    How did you determine which LED strip was bad? I purchased part numbers BN96-26413A
    BN96-26413B
    BN96-26413C
    these make up one full strip to replace which ever is bad in the row.

    I just dont know how to tell which is bad? Will the LED be dark or mis colored when i open it up and take a look, or will i have to supply power to the stripe and disconnect the main / mother board and light them up to see which is the bad one?

    Thanks
    -jes

    Leave a comment:


  • Gv137a
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    Thanks

    Im pretty sure i will not be able to do this after reading that

    Ill ask my electrician friend at work. Ill have him read this thread.

    I would hate to ask him to help then have the set go bad.

    Ill get the s/n off the led monday

    This will probably be something ill have to live with

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • freakaftr8
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    In your case unfortunately it is really hard to tell which part of each of the three strips could be causing the problem the only thing I can advise you is to test each individual led with a voltmeter set in diode check mode. This load wallahi led to light up under testing but first we need to figure out how you're going to be able to open this thing up. Not an easy job. You need to completely remove the back.

    You need to lay the TV down now face up so the screen is facing up. They will be tape around the panel frame he had to remove all the tape and that will expose all the screws holding the grey bezel to the LCD screen

    There are like two dozen screws that need to be removed from the LCD bezel. Once you get that done have a helper carefully lift the bezel up off of the screen and away from the TV. The next step is to unscrew the driver boards that connect to the LCD screen on the bottom of the TV. Once you do this you can carefully disconnect the white ribbon cables that connect those driver Boards to the t-con bored. Mcd s you need to make sure that all cables are free and away from the panel this is a very tedious process you cannot tug on any of the ribbons because you will destroy the panel. Now if you can get the driver boards free in carefully hanging down so they're not attached anything anymore you can take them to the panel this wrap them around forward ways and take them so they're not hanging when you have to lift the panel up and out of the TV. The next step is to get about three or four guys and carefully lift the LCD out of the TV in live somewhere safe and flat so it's not flexed. Then you have to remove all the black plastic Plastic panel frame pieces that hold the panel steady And in place. These just simply unsnap and move on the way. Take note at which one is coming off of what side. Now that you got this out of the way the hard part is over. Now you have to remove the white diffuser sheets out of the TV notice that there are two very thin sheets and one very thick piece of plastic the whole thing is to come out as a whole don't separate the sheets you will get dust between them And when it goes to reassembling your TV you will see it and it will look horrible. Anyway now that you're at this point You should be seeing the LEDs Now. At this point you have these plastic retainer clips that hold the diffuser from falling back in the panel they are wedge-shaped in you twisting counterclockwise 1/4 turn and they pop right out. Only need to remove enough to peel the white plastic sheet back to expose the first three LED strips since those are the ones that are not working.. access point you're safe to take a voltmeter and put it in diode check mode and you will see copper points on the LED strips we can test across for each individual led. Technically this is the only way you're going to find out which one is bad unfortunately the TV will not work when you remove a strip because of a balancing System. If you get this TV to this point start taking pictures of your progress so you remember how to put it back together. This is a very daunting process but if done correctly in very carefully you will fix your TV. Even for someone like me is experiences I am at TV repair still makes me nervous when I have to disassemble a 75 inch LCD screen. The difference is I had to do it by myself
    Last edited by freakaftr8; 12-19-2015, 10:01 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gv137a
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    Thank you for taking the time for that explanation


    So would your recomend have 3 replacement bars on hand before attempting the repair?

    I still have a little difficulty visualizing the assembly
    Once I have it open I'm sure it will click.

    Im a maintenance guy by trade but not an electrician. I have done my own auto electrics.

    Right now the tv works with the dim area
    My fear is that I will open her up and maybe cause more damage.

    Thats why I have so many questions, even the basic stuff.

    To me this tv is still new and should not be having these problems.

    I will get the l.e.d s/n and post it.

    Thanks again

    Leave a comment:


  • freakaftr8
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    The backlight system On these TVs work in pairs of threes so what you have going on is the first three backlight LED strips are out because you have either one or more LEDs open or shorted on any three of the strips.


    Originally posted by Gv137a
    Thanks for the link

    The complete model number is
    UN75F6300AFXZA
    Version UH02

    My guess is that the dim are in the first pic consist of one bar?
    Its strange that the very top edge is not dim, it starts about 1/2 then the dim area of about 4 inches.

    Leave a comment:


  • budm
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    Yes, that is the sticker to tell you the make and model of the LCD panel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gv137a
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    Sorry about that

    Maybe it was the sticker in this pic I took yesterday



    .?

    I didnt get a good infocus shot of it

    Ill have to move the set out and oper her up again

    Thanks again

    Leave a comment:


  • budm
    replied
    Re: Samsung 75 LED UN75F6300

    The sticker for the LCD panel will on the back of the LCD panel.
    I can see it on the left of the power supply board (to the right of the black flat ribbon cable).
    Last edited by budm; 12-18-2015, 07:06 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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