Proscan 42la45h power board model hlp-45a01 (hisense) so this one popped the thermal resistor and I have only ever replaced caps and such where should I start?
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America-well we used to fix our own stuff, now we just buy new... -
Re: Proscan 42la 45h Power Supply help...
Remove the old one and clean up the board - if it is actually charred you may need to
cut it away as it may be conductive. Take care not to damage any more traces check both sides of the board.
Check the component for any identification - if none measure the physical size and try and locate one.
When it is cleaned up we can suggest how to extend the traces and repair the hole.Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740 -
Re: Proscan 42la 45h Power Supply help...
WI'll do I'll get back with post clean up pics.America-well we used to fix our own stuff, now we just buy new...Comment
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Re: Proscan 42la 45h Power Supply help...
So I pulled it and realized I was out of Flux and I also I don't have anything close to that in size I'll get back with this tomorrow after a parts run...Attached FilesAmerica-well we used to fix our own stuff, now we just buy new...Comment
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Re: Proscan 42la 45h Power Supply help...
Ok well one plan might be to take a piece of wire and make a loop in it - if the trace is strong solder the wire to the trace and around the loop.
Test for continuity from the loop to the leg of C803. Put new component in place with
one leg going through the loop and solder up.
You could also solder the good leg in place then solder one end of the wire to the trace,
wrap around the unsoldered leg and solder the other end to the trace then apply solder to the leg and wire wrap.
I suppose we need to consider why it burnt out - power surge? -did the fuse blow as well etcPlease upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Proscan 42la 45h Power Supply help...
I'm going to the electronics shop now and I also wondered that because the fuse didn't blow...America-well we used to fix our own stuff, now we just buy new...Comment
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Re: Proscan 42la 45h Power Supply help...
That part is the current inrush limiter, can you read the resistance between the two legs, it should be around 5 Ohms or so, the body does not show the sign of damage, the burnt on the board (I have seen this before) is due to cold solder joints on the legs.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Proscan 42la 45h Power Supply help...
Well it's not pretty but we will see if it worksAttached FilesAmerica-well we used to fix our own stuff, now we just buy new...Comment
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Re: Proscan 42la 45h Power Supply help...
I would clean as much flux residue from where you have soldered the new part as you may find it could cause issues. I use ipa to clean the area myself.Last edited by vinceroger69; 11-16-2014, 07:18 AM.Comment
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Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
I have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy... -
I have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails
I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time... -
The sub developed a constant popping every couple seconds from woofer and power LED flickering with nothing but wall AC connected. Connecting an audio cable didn't change anything. It doesn't play but a second or two of audio in between the pops.
Opened it up and discovered the power supply is making a faint clicking or ticking sound.
I measured the amp's output to the woofer and it pulses up to 50mv DC to be driver. The pulses coincide with the power supply ticking/clicking.
I measured the power supply output going to the amp board and it too has this pulsing. Voltage cycles... -
Hello Everybody,
Trying to repair a power supply from a Russound CA4 Multizone Controller (picture attached)
Russound no longer supports it but were kind enough to provide a schematic of the power supply (pdf attached).
The outputs marked 12v and 20v are all measuring only 1v.
The board is clicking, which I think means it is in something called hiccup mode when the flyback transformers switches because of an internal problem or something else on the board Overloading it.
The capacitors physically look clean (no bludgesor leaks) and...
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