Samsung The Frame TV no power indicator issues diagnosing the one connect box

[Diah]

as mentioned above there are many have this range as N Channel Drain MOSFET Transistor and could be better rather than the one you have on boards.. look on yours scrap PSU and check the MOSFET at hot area which always being installed on heatsink close to Transformer.. read the name and google it data sheet.

[EazyBone]

as mentioned above there are many have this range as N Channel Drain MOSFET Transistor and could be better rather than the one you have on boards.. look on yours scrap PSU and check the MOSFET at hot area which always being installed on heatsink close to Transformer.. read the name and google it data sheet.

Would an 80r450p work? All the Samsung boards have 600v ones, so this is the only thing I found equivalent or above. I'm trying to read the data sheet but I don't know what has to be close.

And if this works would the same 471 blue cap be appropriate

[Diah]

600V 700 or 750 are Max. the circuit will be no more than 380V., Ohms also are the MAX mean 45Ohm can handle 35Ohm , the cap 47 2KV remain same value at all values

[EazyBone]

I decided to wait for the part, since $5 and exact replacement.

Installed new fuse, new blue cap and new mosfet. But cold side still gets no voltage.

I get 16x volts on main caps. Now that voltage is on both sides of the fuse. The mosfet and blue cap also get the 16x volts. I've checked both other mosfet s for shorts and blue caps and all looks well.

The fuse didn't blow again when plugged in and I've been trying to get voltage but no dice. Any advices on what to look for?

[lotas]

This means that you missed something, check the large low-resistance current resistors (2 pieces are visible), on the reverse side there are SMD diodes, zener diodes, resistors, the PWM could also suffer due to the mosfet...

[EazyBone]

So I found a replacement "for parts" one connect for $25 on eBay, decided I could get somewhere with it. Ended up working.

So the Pin that looked damaged was NOT a problem. This was a OCB explosion. I have way too many TVs so I got to move it out quickly and won't know why the old OCB went bad, but I will try to figure it out and I'll post. Thx all for efforts

[KYBOSH]

So I found a replacement "for parts" one connect for $25 on eBay, decided I could get somewhere with it. Ended up working.

So the Pin that looked damaged was NOT a problem. This was a OCB explosion. I have way too many TVs so I got to move it out quickly and won't know why the old OCB went bad, but I will try to figure it out and I'll post. Thx all for efforts

The for parts unit you got on ebay was actually working without any repair on your part?
Im interested in learning from your experience as I may want to take on a For Parts One connect box and see if I can bring it back to life.

[EazyBone]

Yes it was working. The seller had like 300 one connect boxes all listed for parts as they just didn't test them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23521586733...mis&media=COPY

This may work for you. This was what I bought, if the link works. Same seller there

[KYBOSH]

Yes it was working. The seller had like 300 one connect boxes all listed for parts as they just didn't test them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23521586733...mis&media=COPY

This may work for you. This was what I bought, if the link works. Same seller there

EXCELLENT referral.
I saw this seller today when I was looking but thought it too good to be true.
Will have to order one and try much luck.

Thank you again!

[EazyBone]

EXCELLENT referral.
I saw this seller today when I was looking but thought it too good to be true.
Will have to order one and try much luck.

Thank you again!

Sure sure. Hope it's something good. It even came well packaged and clean too. Not all scratched up or anything. But who knows what the next one is. I was hoping the power board didn't blow and was HDMI or something and I could switch them, but all good

[eaarnoudse]

I decided to wait for the part, since $5 and exact replacement.

Installed new fuse, new blue cap and new mosfet. But cold side still gets no voltage.

I get 16x volts on main caps. Now that voltage is on both sides of the fuse. The mosfet and blue cap also get the 16x volts. I've checked both other mosfet s for shorts and blue caps and all looks well.

The fuse didn't blow again when plugged in and I've been trying to get voltage but no dice. Any advices on what to look for?

Tonight I also tried to repair this power supply and in my case the repair was successful. I first replaced the MOSFET T70R380P by part 70S360P7 (IPA70R360P7SXKSA1) and the fuse. The ceramic capacitor was OK in my case. After replacing the parts there was still no output voltage. I checked the circuit with my oscilloscope and saw there was no chopping signal on the MOSFET's gate. So I checked the circuit that drives the gate and saw a blown 2.2Ω SMD resistor (marking 2R20) and I also suspected the IC being faulty.The type number of the IC is SSC3S211 by the way. I replaced both parts and the power supply had a correct output voltage. I finally connected the One Connect cable and the screen was immediately working great again. I hope these additional tips will help you repairing this power supply. Good luck!

[EazyBone]

I just opened it a couple weeks ago and still could not figure it out!! I will look into this! Thanks. I'll post my results here as well, appreciate it.

[KYBOSH]

Does anyone know why they put 2 magnets in the back of the frame TV? I really don't see the point of it. Kind of odd. Pic below

The earth magnets are there to hel pull and hold the TV tight and flush against the metal wall mount and the wall. THis aids in giving it that zero gap (picture frame) profile that ppl pay a premium for on these sets.

I wonder if it would be good preventative maintenance to install a small fan on these boxes. These are passively cooled but I'm pretty sure that overheating is major contributing factor their early demise.

[EazyBone]

Tonight I also tried to repair this power supply and in my case the repair was successful. I first replaced the MOSFET T70R380P by part 70S360P7 (IPA70R360P7SXKSA1) and the fuse. The ceramic capacitor was OK in my case. After replacing the parts there was still no output voltage. I checked the circuit with my oscilloscope and saw there was no chopping signal on the MOSFET's gate. So I checked the circuit that drives the gate and saw a blown 2.2Ω SMD resistor (marking 2R20) and I also suspected the IC being faulty.The type number of the IC is SSC3S211 by the way. I replaced both parts and the power supply had a correct output voltage. I finally connected the One Connect cable and the screen was immediately working great again. I hope these additional tips will help you repairing this power supply. Good luck!

How did you know or test that ic to know it was bad? Or did you assume just because that resistor shorted.

[eaarnoudse]

How did you know or test that ic to know it was bad? Or did you assume just because that resistor shorted.

The resistor was not shorted, but internally blown. So there was an open connection. I temporary soldered a normal 2.2Ω resistor and checked with my oscilloscope whether the IC generated a gate driver signal again. That was not the case despite the fact that the IC received a voltage from the power supply. Other surrounding components were all OK, so I concluded that the IC must be broken too. I replaced the IC together with the SMD resistor and that happily worked for me!

[KYBOSH]

The resistor was not shorted, but internally blown. So there was an open connection. I temporary soldered a normal 2.2Ω resistor and checked with my oscilloscope whether the IC generated a gate driver signal again. That was not the case despite the fact that the IC received a voltage from the power supply. Other surrounding components were all OK, so I concluded that the IC must be broken too. I replaced the IC together with the SMD resistor and that happily worked for me!

You actually did very good here.
I reread your original post a few threads up and see that you have adequate training to make repairs like this.
Well done

[EazyBone]

Smd is also blown for me as well. Will update once I find a smd and some time to mess with it

[eaarnoudse]

You actually did very good here.
I reread your original post a few threads up and see that you have adequate training to make repairs like this.
Well done

Thank you very much! 🤗

[EazyBone]

Yes you did. I was able to get the 12v line back up and running also. Although I didn't get the TV to work. Just keeps 1 red light blinking. Not sure what's going on. No real hopes for it though as it was water damaged in Milton so I did this repair just to see if I could fix the ocb.. which is probably fixed. Could be the wire, who knows now but I get solid 12v and the TV gets what looks like proper voltages

Well done. Same exact mosfet blown as you and the fix is there.