Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
Need good clear straight on pictures of back of tv with cover off and each board.
Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
I still have boards for this set. PM if interested.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
Hello, newly registered on the forum. I came here expressively for the same reason as the original poster. I have the identical model (currently on the floor, it's so HEAVY!), that recently started to exhibit similar symptoms. I would really like to know if a resolution was ever found for this problem. My power supply boards are operational, unit turns on with the right side of the screen illuminated briefly, showing the logo, while the left side remains dark. The screen then fades to black. Holding a lamp to the front of the screen, I can see the outline of the OLEVIA logo. Thanks for anyone's help in advance.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
Pm sentThis is obviously a very old thread, but were you ever able to get the tv working again? I'm by no means a tv repair expert, but after reading through this thread, I'm convinced that my tv has the same problem. Of course at this point, the biggest problem is probably going to be finding replacement parts. Thanks for any helpLeave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
This is obviously a very old thread, but were you ever able to get the tv working again? I'm by no means a tv repair expert, but after reading through this thread, I'm convinced that my tv has the same problem. Of course at this point, the biggest problem is probably going to be finding replacement parts. Thanks for any helpLeave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
Yes and no. I scored the main PCB off ebay and as soon as I installed it I began to get the faint Olevia start up logo on the screen so that is out of the way. Now I need to find out which of the 6 inverters (or their respective CCFLs) is bad.Last edited by HAHOMETP; 07-27-2014, 06:55 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
were you able to come to a conclusion on how to get the TV active again. I have the exact same TV with the exact same issue.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
I see this is kind of old, but if the two PSUs are identical, did you try swapping them around, and seeing if you get the same results? I see the one PSU has an extra cable connected, the one that is supplying the ~22v, it's possible that maybe just that one portion has issues, and swapping them around may get you some extra life from the TV...Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
I have finally gotten around to testing the PSU's in both idle and loaded states. I have attached the updated picture.
Interestingly the same two orange wires that are marked 24VA on the PSU (CN2) are marked +25v on the Main PCB (J55).Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
Yes I am aware of this capability. When I first acquired this multimeter almost 20 years ago I did play with the peak and hold feature but time and again I would inevitably return to the old analogue multimeter for short spike catching and general trend observation. A slight jerk of the analogue pointer is quicker and easier to spot than to first activate the peak and hold mode and then go look for the result. Especially when the actual value is unimportant but the general trend is.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
Your 2030 has a feature called peak hold which might be quick enough for this test? According to the manual
https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...eee71bfdad.pdf
Works with AC and DC current and voltage and records inputs as short as 1ms. Select measurement function and apply input to meter before activating PK.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
This indeed sounds plausible.
I'll check the batteries and also will take at least a couple of multimeters along with me. Besides the trusty American made Wavetek 2030 (4 places after the decimal point) I also keep around a vintage Russian made (1958) analogue multimeter that used to belong to my dad. It's indispensable in catching short spikes of voltage which modern digital multimeters tend to overlook. Maybe it'll help me catch that elusive "nanosecond-to-black" spike of voltage if it there in the first place of course.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
It looks like master/slave setup for this 65" panel.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
And usually if one is faulty, or significantly lower the other will pull it up, causing one power supply to take the whole load. If this is the case, then that might explain the drop in output voltage -- though I'd at least expect to see a 2 seconds to black like symptom where the inverter attempted to light up. Perhaps a fault detect fires immediately. I think this is a Sharp panel, and Sharp do have inverter error outputs. I'm assuming both are in parallel. It may be that one drives the master and the other drives the slave instead. Also, verify your multimeter battery!Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
You both have intrigued me with this new hypotheses. What if indeed the cause of the malfunction is as silly as that one of the PSUs fails to deliver the required voltage? I'll measure the actual 24v voltage on both PSU in both the idle state and under load and report back. Thanks much for the ideas!Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
The LCD panel specification may give us the pinout of the inverter boards and the T-CON board. Can you see the sticker on the LCD panel assembly?Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
It can make a difference. I've had inverters that shut down at less than about 23V input. Nominal range is 23V to 26V.Leave a comment:
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Re: Dead Olevia 265TFHD-T11
The TV is about 40 minutes away from me. I'll check that next time I am there. 22.7v is probably a bit on the low side but I doubt that it makes the make it or break it difference. I still do not see any voltage that could tell the inverters to fire up. I have a feeling that this trigger voltage should be present in the white 4-wire harness between the left middle inverter and the T-Con. This white harness is the only connection between the inverters and the rest of the circuit besides the red +24v power harness .Leave a comment:
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