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Probably but first check the diodes at the led driver output.
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See pic - R5 is a 10k resistor between Gate and Source that's where it's coming from. I also measure 13.6 ohms between pins 6 and 8 on the power ic itself now that it's out of circuit.
Not sure how to test the mosfet it's not shorted in any way at rest but could be open I guess ? Reads as a transistor from D to S with my meter but that's all I get out of it.
Can this power ic be substituted with something more common ?...
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Sorry I was just looking at this again and came back to say I was measuring resistance between gate and source of the mosfet at about 32 ohms so I took it out and measured the pads instead and was the same. After removing the power ic those same pads measure 10k.
Does that indicate a problem with the ic or is that expected ? If it's normal I'll reassemble and take the voltage readings on the pins of the ic. Thanks....
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I can finish this one off by saying the correct Panel setting IS in the service menu and it's...
HDMITX_VB1_4K2K_60P
This was only possible once I found the firmware file which resets the panel to the default which is wrong but good enough to navigate the Service Menu to make the changes necessary. Took a few times lol....
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Already checked the caps with an esr tester and both are under 2 ohms iirc ? How do I test the 8 pin ? Its an OB2269CP
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I've ohm'd out these traces and they're ok even though they look bad and are exposed.
I will take care of that if I repair it and decide to put it back into service.
And yes it looks like the picture above thanks for confirming it is working....
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That is from me removing the heatsink the first time.
The joints are all good....
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Here are some pics the component in question is in the third pic just above the "4" in 400 in the middle of the main filter cap.3 Photos
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Ya scratch what I said about the main filter cap since when I measured that the mosfet was pulled off the board with the large heatsink... I had 170v on the main filter cap with it reassembled.
But I'm looking at the startup section and there is something looking like a tantalum cap (but bigger?) labelled "RT" any idea what that refers to ?...
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I have about 8.5v on the startup pin of the power ic which should be enough to start it but only 3.7v on the run pin which isn't enough. Maybe high esr on one of the caps in that circuit going to take off the hot side heatsink tomorrow.
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I'm not asking for specifics more general theory. The unit has two large heatsinks covering the components only the back surface mount stuff is visible currently.
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How to troubleshoot dead power brick
I have an adjustable power supply having a selectable voltage from 15v to 24v. It was sold as a universal soundbar power supply.
It has been outdoors in the elements powering a set of outdoor bluetooth rock speakers until recently when it stopped working. (ya ya I know...)
I opened it and it looks like there was some liquid ingress but I can't find any shorted silicon and the fuse is not blown. I measure about 160v dc after the bridge rectifier but nothing at the main cap. I suspect the power ic is not running. Obviously there is no voltage on the secondary either....
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There is a giant thread regarding no sound and it is the eeprom which fails and needs to be replaced and programmed.
[url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-audio-equipment/42474-denon-avr-2802-with-no-sound-on-speaker[/url]
May or may not be your problem worth a look maybe.https://There is a giant thread rega...-speaker[/url]
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General Questions on the Relationship Between Mainboard, TCON and Panel
My goal here is to be able to use boards on hand to swap into faulty sets when the faulty board is not obvious.
I will start by asking what is the format of the output from the mainboard and is it generic in any way or does it vary by manufacturer and/or model ?
And as far as I know a tcon and panel must be a matching pair because the timing of the signals and the voltages required to drive the panel are specific to the panel itself. (That may be a blanket statement that isn't true in some cases where the panel creates its own sub-voltages on its panel boards?)...
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The tcon sticker matches the panel sticker right down to the revision number (C2) that's why I was wondering if the po somehow put in the 2k version instead of 4k. But looking at it again there is an empty slot for another connector that is used for 2k so probably not that either. So possible bad flash or failed tcon in another odd way or still yet a failed panel. Can't find a similar "failure" on the web anywhere.Last edited by mmartell; 01-01-2024, 10:00 AM.
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Hauled this out of storage and had another look at it.
Both motherboards were recovered by finding the update file on line and putting on a usb drive. When I say recovered I mean they are back to the original stretched image problem.
Looked closer at the tcon and still don't see anything wrong but it does have a 24c64 on it. Found this tcon on aliexpress and it comes in both a 2k and a 4k version I presume the difference is in the eeprom contents ? Probably doesn't matter as finding the .bin file for it would be damn near impossible I would think.
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I tried pairing mode though it's already paired. It failed but the symptoms changed. It now has the classic boot loop failure after reaching the Android spinning circles.
After some deeper investigation it seems these do in fact suffer from bad/failing emmc chips. I'll probably send the board in for repair since having just installed the leds I should be reasonably certain the set will last a little while more before any problems arise.
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