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ok so i done what you said. couldnt believe it > switched tv on and instantly started heating up with a hairdryer, the tv flashed faster and faster then was going on for a second then a flash then on for another second then backlight went on solid.. took less than a minute you think its just the case of replacing that Huge Cap ?
I would try using a cardboard tube to isolate heat to only that part but it does look like it.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
tom that large capacitor was a 150uf 400v, i ordered anothe ron ebay and got through today, after replacing i switched tv on anddddd... issue still the same.. what else could it be ?
Which capacitor did you order? Can I get a link to the auction?
It's possible something around the same area is faulty, which is why you need to pin it down exactly if possible by nozzling the heat.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Sounds very much like the issue I am having with my TV, though mine only takes around a minute other times sooner to stop strobing so not much time to attempt the heat trick.
Just a thought, but could it be a dry joint or poor solder joint causing the issue, possibly on the transformer?
If it is a heat related issue then surely if you were to turn off the tv then quickly switch it back on it would start up with no problems, its only once its cooled down that the problem will come back, but I suppose you'd get the same results with a faulty Cap, depending on the caps fault, high esr, heat damage or capacitance out-of-range.
Just so you don't go unnecessarily spending money on inverters in future why don't you adopt the 2 x 12v car bulb trick to eliminate the inverter being at fault? Guide available on here, look for a post made by Budm and theres a link at the bottom of all of his posts, troubleshoot tv's.
It might be worth doing anyway, just to prove its definately not either of the inverter boards. Have you been sold a duff board?
thanks for this info, i have same problem exactly on a baird x42, the youtube vid is the exact fault... i have just ordered the cap to repair, i'm feeling confident thanks again!
to all interested I had same issue power applied to set then would strobe don't change psu or inverter with guidance from all the knowledge gods on here I couldn't determine fault I had the same baird come in for screen replacement and thought ill try this and that and low and behold the main av was at fault lesson learned don't rule out anything
its the main board 75/100% im telling ya
Does anyone know who actually makes this set? or where i can find the schematics for the PSU? I've replaced the "Large Cap" 150uF 400v and measuring the 12v line when cold i get 10.5v as it warms up the voltage goes towards 12v the strobing gets faster until it eventually stops and then displays a lovely picture.
I've seen the Bauer xt37 mentioned with this PSU but can't find any diagrams on that either.
what would be the effect of using a 1500uF in place of a 1000uF (same Voltage spec) on the 12v line? The reason i ask is i'm still waitting for a replacement 1000uF as the original was "bulging", would it cause a lower voltage, until heated up?
It is made by ProView Technologies China. Using a Megmeet power supply I believe.
What is the make (e.g. Rubycon, (M) = Panasonic...), series (e.g. YXF, FC) and voltage rating of the substitute?
Yes, the 12V cap being bad can EASILY cause low 12V, it is among the most common. BUT, it usually does not cause the backlights to flicker, so also suggest replacing the 24V caps if present.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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