When powered on I get 0 ohms. When hot, while cooling, I get resistance starting between 0 and 50 ohms and increasing about 3-5 ohms per second. Freeze spray has no effect other than making resistance increase faster when powered off.
That resistor will dissipate a little bit over 1 Watt of power. You cannot check the resistance when circuit is powered up. It is just a bleeder resistor to drain the 24V power supply when the TV is turn off and also gives a little load to the 24V power supply.
1 Watt on small body can be hot. The circuit will function without that resistor in place, you can verify that the resistor is connected in parallel with the filter cap or not by checking the connection between the legs of the cap and the resistor.
I did that, it is parallel. I figured there would be some heat since some of the energy passing through resistance is converted to heat. I just wasn't sure what was normal.
What about the SMD caps C209 and C210 not having any voltage and also not being a negative or ground? I noticed that one side of them is on the same pad as the big tab on 2 of the MOSFETs.
At this point I cannot tell much unless we can get the spec sheet of that PWM IC which drives those 4 MOSFETs. The inverter is just not putting out enough high voltage to drive the lamps right now.
By the way, did you test those 4 MOSFET.
Looking at it with big tab up
pin1 = left pin (Gate)
Pin2 = biag tab (Drain)
pin 3 = Right tab (Source)
Just measure the resistance of
1 & 2 =
1 & 3 =
2 & 3 =
Well, I didn't want to have to buy a new inverter board but I have a buyer waiting on me so I didn't have much choice. Got lucky and found one on eBay for $32 with free shipping. I think with a working board for a reference we might be able to figure out the other one. In any event, I've learned more from this TV than all the others combined.
I got my ESR meter and tested the cap I replaced. Its got an ESR of 0.10 ohms. The meter is telling me its leaky. Maybe that cap won't work after all. I have some Panasonic FCs coming. The cap I took out had an ESR of 0.06 ohms.
Edit: The small tan cap that is parallel with the big resistor has an ESR of 0.37 ohms. The meter says its leaky. It is marked 104. What size would that be for a replacement?
Ceramic cap marked 104 will not accurately test on most ESR meters.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
There are two SMD DC blocking caps in series with the primary side of the inverter transformer (see the SCH I posted), if they are bad, it will also cause the transformers not be driven correctly.
OK, I read the instructions that came with the ESR meter. It wasn't telling me the caps were bad. It was saying in circuit/leaky because it couldn't read the capacitance. So, the DC blocking caps both read 370uf 0.06 ohms. They are parallel so this doesn't really tell me if one is bad.
Ok, so I know I know, it's a Westinghouse....lol It's got the backlights but no video. Likely the panel, but I'd like to take some measurements on the buffer board with help from you experts to confirm. See the attached pictures. In pic #1, there's a nice pin reference to use to take some measurements. The large IC in pic #7 gets up to 60degC when the TV is on.
Westinghouse 32" Smart TV (Model: WD32HBR105) . Originally stuck on logo with no response from remote and no firmware file available to flash via USB. Westinghouse Support stated it would require service but that wasn't a cost effective option. I used dental floss to remove the motherboard processor heatsink to identify what make it was (Mstar). Unfortunately that knowledge didn't help with a solution. After the heatsink removal it only displayed a completely white screen. I then decided to replace the motherboard with a universal 3-in-1 board but the white screen problem continued. This...
Westinghouse TV WD48FAB100 Not Powering On – Burn Mark Found on Power Supply .
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Hi All... Me again. Begging for help. The guy who now believes it's possible to fix a TV (one of the millions) one can find on the streets of NYC. I hate hate hate waste...
Thanks to y'all's help I fixed and am happily watching a 70inch Sharp Aquos. Perfect. Learned a lot, replaced LEDs. Pulled screen/panel. Proud.
This is a newer set. It's a Westinghouse Roku WR58UX4019. It was RIGHT outside my place literally, and I couldn't resist. 58in. 500$ new, but I'm not a rich man. So, I want to try.
There is sound. It turns off and on. Screen is black. I can...
Hello,
I got this TV (Westinghouse DWM40F1G1) that did not came on one day, blinked for a split second and turned off. I looked at it closer with flashlight and figured that the TV actually works, its just the backlight that does not.
There is one PCB board - all of the components are on it: TP.MS3393.P85
I took my oscilloscope and looked what is coming to the MOSFET that is switching current to LEDs - I could see that the PWM signal comes in but it cuts off almost instantly. I thought its the driver chip OB3350CP and so I replaced it.
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