Re: LCD-TV repair
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Re: LCD-TV repair
I just did a Sharp 26" LCD, and I got all the voltage to the transformers, but no high output. I checked the fuses, and they were good. I later found a bad fuse on the 3 volt signal that tells it it is ok to make the high voltage. It was a very small fuse about 2 millimeters, and after that it worked great. So I say fuse too.
I do have some questions for you if you are good with the Plasma tvs. I have a need to repair a power board on a sony, if you search my posts, you will see what I need.Leave a comment:
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Re: LCD-TV repair
first thought: bad fuse(s) on the inverter board..?Leave a comment:
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LCD-TV repair
Hello.
I've worked most on Plasma sets and have some questions about LCD technology. I've got a LAVA 32" LCD which doesn't start the backlight.
The powersupply seems to operate correct. The output voltages is within limits. I've gone through various voltage regulators on the mainboard, without finding anything abnormal. The inverter board gets an ON signal from the mainboard.
But then I don't know what goes wrong.
I don't know the level of high voltage generated by the inverter board, I can only measure up to 1500V with my oscilloscope.
I'm looking for general troubleshooting advice.
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Hi everyone,
I've got a little "problem child": my Dell Latitude 7420 2-in-1, which had a faulty mainboard.
I replaced it, but ever since, the touchscreen no longer works — and honestly, I’m running out of ideas…
In Windows Device Manager, I just see an I2C HID Device with error code 10. Sporadically, the touchscreen is recognized correctly for just a few seconds, but I haven’t been able to determine under which circumstances this happens.
The touchscreen also doesn’t work in UEFI/BIOS, although it’s enabled... -
Hello,
I have an old MASTER TL-240 LED TV. Since it stopped working and it had a DVB-T receiver that is being dismissed in Italy, I've decided to replace the mainboard with a DVB-T2 one.
The original problem was that when switching on the TV, the power LED was transitioning from red to steady blue, without showing video or audio.
After checking some voltages on the power supply board (HKL-240101-B Rev. 1.4, HKL from now on) someone suggested me to replace the mainboard.
Now I have some doubts about how to connect the new mainboard to the old power supply.
First of... -
I just got this tv today and it appeared to have no backlight on. After taking off the rear cover and checking again in the dark I can see that MAYBE one quadrant is lit.. But still it's quite dim. I was going to check the LEDs with my tester, and I found LED 1 and LED 2 + pins on the wire from the inverter, but I couldn't identify a ground. Nonetheless I tried using a mounting screw on the inverter board and also the chassis as ground but regardless my tester reads 300 which is what it reads when there is no voltage draw.
I don't know how exactly to test the inverter itself. Is it... -
I have a Vizio M43-C1 stuck in a reboot loop with no backlight.
I've tested all the voltage rails coming out of the power supply and they are "normal" for this model (PS_ON & DIM go high when turned on, BL_ON & 3D_ON are close to zero due to backlight power flowing through the mainboard, 5VSB is 5V, and 12V is 19V, which is apparently normal for this board).
Basically, I get similar results to Garry in this post: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=80346
So, I've ruled out the PSU for now.
The reboot loop... -
Hi everyone,
I'm trying to repair my LG 49UB850V TV (WebOS 1.0, UHD model from 2014).
Mainboard model: EAX65684604
PCB marking: EBT62954607
SPI chip: Winbond W25X20CLNIG Problem description:
Originally, the TV would turn on (backlight and LED OK if I force them on), but it shut down as soon as any input was received from the IR sensor or remote. The backlight and power board were working fine.
After testing and verifying the voltages (DRY ON, PWR ON, 12V/24V rails), I suspected a corrupted SPI firmware. What I tried so far:- I bought another
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