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I'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best. -
Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
Digi-Key doesn't carry that part. Their FK stock is fairly limited. And Digi-Key doesn't have any 2700mfd 10V parts in d10mm. I think Wester is right...I would just use 6.3V caps, but that's just me
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
ok i will stick to the caps i haveI'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best.Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
btw, mouser does free shipping if digikey wont.Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
i found this
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...YB100E272MJ30S
it's a chemi-con KYB 2700uf 10vI'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best.Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
Oh very nice. Will they do free shipping? Otherwise it's not worth splitting your order unless you want to move them all over to Mouser.Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
i just did that
I'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best.Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
the interesting thing is this:
if the pro's like panasonic & rubycon etc cant make a reliable 3300uf cap in a 10mm can,
then obviously the crap company's cant either - so i wonder how good the original part ever was?!!Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
in what way?
do you have an ESR meter and a way to check ripple current?Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
What, you mean all those thousands of 3300uF 6.3V UCC KZG... that were erupting like volcanoes?
In all seriousness, I think Rubycon and Panasonic came close enough to pulling it of with the 3300uF 6.3V MBZ, MCZ, ZLJ, FJ, FK, and FR. And Nichicon with 3300uF 6.3V HW, post-2005 HM/HN/HZ, and UCC with 3300uF 6.3V KZN (all 10x25mm except for FK which is 10x30mm). I think 3300uF 6.3V 10mm Sanyo (Suncon) WG were reliable as well. But most of those series are too low impedance for anything but modern PSUs designed for lower impedance caps.Last edited by Wester547; 01-12-2017, 10:37 PM.Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
here is my ESR meter
Attached FilesI'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best.Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
T4, with a burn mark??Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
i may desoder the 3300uf canicon cap and take a closer look at itI'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best.Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
dont desolder too much without making notes - we dont want you coming back and asking where each cap goes!!Comment
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Re: badcaps in a ATX PSU
the locations on the board are numbered.Comment
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I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.
For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772
It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177... -
Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached.... -
Copying DMI information from an old bios to a new one is difficult for some members, often they have no experience with a hex editor,or some that have tried find it too hard.There is an option to make things easier for those members so that they don`t need to post their own bios backup for the DMI copying.
Experienced bios modding members can help by posting in other threads the DMI offsets,macro script generated by the software and a download link to the software at softpedia mentioned in this guide,or post your macros in the comments here with a link to the bios request thread .... -
I have here a Magnum IA.100 which belongs to my parents.
The unit powers on & when the relay kicks in, you get a pop from the speakers (this might sound weird but is usual behavior for this amp). However, you get nothing coming through it from any of the inputs & no pops and crackls from any of the controls.
Because of the sound from the speaker when the amp turns on I have assumed that the output section probably works but I could be wrong & I'm not sure how to test that side of things further.
What Ive done........01-01-2025, 01:26 PM -
I am dealing with this LA-G341P, which had heavy liquid damage around the Audio board, Battery charging circuit. I went and cleaned liquid areas and left the audio board disconnected.
It had blown PQ1900/02/3 as well as a trace on PU1900. I replaced all 4, and now it turns on and switches off. With a connected battery, it turns on and stays on for a while, even loading the system, then cuts off suddenly.
Charger only - without a battery, the PQ201/PD200 area gets hot. I can see the chipset and CPU also warm up for a second trying to pull up to 2A, then cust off....
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