The again, these PSUs probably run quite hot. No surprise if even Japanese caps get cooked in there (granted, it will probably take them much longer).
Oh, it gets hot alright... The fan speed is also stupidly low. These PCs look like they were designed for a certain size and noise level, with total disregard for _anything_ else. If I keep it I might mod the PSU fan to run at full speed.
I guess the small caps even in these regular PC PSUs should never be underestimated. Learning something new everyday. Good job on the repair, by the way .
I found the clue here: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/smpsfaq.htm#smpsuc3842d Problem is, it's buried down the bottom of the page - they should have included it as part of the 'power cycling troubleshooting' section at the top!
Put that cap on ESR meter while heating up with hair dryer to see if the ESR will drop if the cap is not too far gone, I use hair dryer alot to locate bad caps problem.
Put that cap on ESR meter while heating up with hair dryer to see if the ESR will drop if the cap is not too far gone, I use hair dryer alot to locate bad caps problem.
Glad you like it. I would have liked to make a better one but my camera is too old (limits to 30 seconds), plus I think a thermocouple could have been useful.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
Thank you all for your information.
I manage to repair my psu with your help.
I wanted to add that in secondary section of my psu there were many cracked joins.
Thanks, might have a look, at least it may clear up how the PWR_OK signal is supposed to work on this PSU...
One thing I can tell you is that HP switching power supply can not be run very long with out a motherboard because the power supply will lock up in this mode of operation
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