Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • stevenA
    Member
    • Oct 2012
    • 19
    • france

    #1

    Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

    Good evening

    I am trying to relearn some of the basic electronics that I have long forgotten, and would appreciate some help understanding how the attached reverse engineered circuit from a broken no-name PS is supposed to work!

    This should supply 12v DC at 1.2 amp from 230VAC (the circuit may not be correct but I have checked it several times)

    The supply does not work and I suspect the LM358 is at fault (the 370 ohm resistor to the inverted input is clearly overheating). The cap is bad.

    I think (!) that this is a dual rail supply, and am clear on the functioning of the +ve rail.

    I am unclear as to the design of the -ve rail, as this appears at best to provide half wave rectification through the SCR. I am also unclear as to how it is referenced to the +ve rail, unless through Vs+ and Vs- (?) of the LM358

    I do not remember what this was used to power, and it may be that the device smoothed the DC at input, but as it stands, I see only that the op amp is used as a comparator to check for the presence of a load, and to then activate the SCR to complete the circuit.

    I also do not understand why the two windings are used on the transformer (rather than a single winding).

    Any help in explaining how this circuit is intended to work would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks
    Attached Files
  • tom66
    EVs Rule
    • Apr 2011
    • 32560
    • UK

    #2
    Re: Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

    It is a single rail supply, to be dual rail it must have a separate ground, which it does not, the output negative is your ground reference.

    The 370 ohm resistor isn't a standard value, and it shouldn't be overheating - the inverting input of the op-amp is essentially infinite impedance so no current flows, this means that the op-amp is probably broken.

    It looks like it might use the LM358 for shut down in case of failure, it's not clear?
    Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
    For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

    Comment

    • budm
      Badcaps Legend
      • Feb 2010
      • 40746
      • USA

      #3
      Re: Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

      I am not sure where you get this circuit from, but the LM117 is setup as constant current source and its output is fed through 470 Ohm resistor, so you want 1.2A flowing through 470 Ohm = 564V which is impossible, not sure what you draw up the this circcuit. The Thyristor will never conduct since the Cathode side is backward bias if you ever have the current flow throw the the load from 12v to the Negative point.
      Can we see this power supply that you are trying to reverse engineering it?
      You just want a 12VDC power supply that can supply current up to 1.2A that will run with 230VAC input?
      Last edited by budm; 10-20-2012, 09:51 PM.
      Never stop learning
      Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

      Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

      Inverter testing using old CFL:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

      Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
      http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

      TV Factory reset codes listing:
      http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

      Comment

      • stevenA
        Member
        • Oct 2012
        • 19
        • france

        #4
        Re: Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

        Thanks for your replies. This is only an exercise to help me improve my understanding of power circuits - this one is unusual (?) and I cannot see how it is working, particularly how the +ve output is linked to the -ve output, as the negative output is only connected via the supply to the LM358 to the rest of the circuit!


        I have attached some photos as requested - and have overlaid components on the back of the PCB.

        There were some errors in my previous circuit , notably:
        • Resistor Values
        • The outputs were inverted (the thyristor as drawn should now be OK)
        • Missing resistor on the non-inverting input
        • The transformer windings were incorrect - the revised circuit is based on voltages measured
        • The 370 ohm resistor which is overheating is 470 ohm and is on the output of the LM358, and not the input as originally drawn!


        I have made some measurements, without any load, and have added these values to the circuit.

        There are several things that appear unusual - there is only 1v across the 180 ohm resistor at the ouput of the LM317 (instead of 1.25) - could this be because there was no load - and I do not understand how there is only 25.5vdc across the cap, when based on the 29v rms input, there should be 39.8v according to my calcs

        The no -load output of the supply is 12.8V.

        Thanks again for your help.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by stevenA; 10-21-2012, 06:35 AM. Reason: Added new photo

        Comment

        • budm
          Badcaps Legend
          • Feb 2010
          • 40746
          • USA

          #5
          Re: Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

          Do you still have the case of the power supply? I would like to see what it is said on it.
          I will draw out the sch later.
          Never stop learning
          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

          Inverter testing using old CFL:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

          TV Factory reset codes listing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

          Comment

          • stevenA
            Member
            • Oct 2012
            • 19
            • france

            #6
            Re: Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

            Thanks Budm

            I think that this is not in fact a PSU, but a battery charger! Following your above question, I have found similar circuits for a NiMh charger using similar components. That being said I would still like to understand how it works!

            I do have the case but there are very few markings unfortunately - I cannot even remember what this supply was originally for but have an inkling that it could have been for a very early gen transportable phone

            The markings are:

            Approval no: S1357/4/G/500454 (probably BABT)

            Made in England

            and on the base:

            25D83599R
            XDC 86 (49)

            I have googled but found nothing with this.

            As I said, my interest is to understand the concept.

            After a days research, my only thoughts are that the LM317 is giving a ref voltage to the LM358 which is switching the TIC106D - logically this would be as overvoltage protection, but in reality, it seems to be to provide the positive rail! If this is a charger, then this would be to stop overcharging.

            The only uncertainty in the circuit is the transfo - and there are no markings on it at all.

            Hope this helps, and thanks for your interest
            Last edited by stevenA; 10-21-2012, 04:40 PM. Reason: New information

            Comment

            • budm
              Badcaps Legend
              • Feb 2010
              • 40746
              • USA

              #7
              Re: Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

              OK, from what I can see, this power supply will be putting out pulsing Half wave DC. Do you have the scope? It is more likely to be used for batteries charger using pulsed DC.
              Is you meter TRUE R.M.S., if you trying to read DC output, it will only show the average DC output of the AC output (half wave).
              You second drawing is correct, the resistor between the ADJ and the output pin of the 317 is set to put out constant current of about 7mA (i out = 1.25Vref/180 Ohm)
              Last edited by budm; 10-21-2012, 05:10 PM.
              Never stop learning
              Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

              Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

              Inverter testing using old CFL:
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

              Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
              http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

              TV Factory reset codes listing:
              http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

              Comment

              • stevenA
                Member
                • Oct 2012
                • 19
                • france

                #8
                Re: Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

                Thanks Budm. I doubt that the meter I am using has true RMS, and do not (yet) have a scope.

                If I understand correctly, you are saying that the output is via the TIC106D, and that the full bridge is only used to provide a voltage reference for the LM358 via the LM317, and a return path.

                Comment

                • retiredcaps
                  Badcaps Legend
                  • Apr 2010
                  • 9271

                  #9
                  Re: Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

                  Originally posted by stevenA
                  I doubt that the meter I am using has true RMS, and do not (yet) have a scope.
                  Most multimeters that support True RMS will say True RMS right on the front of the multimeter.
                  --- begin sig file ---

                  If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

                  We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

                  Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

                  --- end sig file ---

                  Comment

                  • budm
                    Badcaps Legend
                    • Feb 2010
                    • 40746
                    • USA

                    #10
                    Re: Help needed with understanding this basic PSU design

                    The current return path is through the Bridge rectifier setup.
                    Never stop learning
                    Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

                    Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

                    Inverter testing using old CFL:
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

                    Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
                    http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

                    TV Factory reset codes listing:
                    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

                    Comment

                    Related Topics

                    Collapse

                    • Nagy Daniel
                      Lowest possible resistance on laptop motherboard rail - Guide Table request
                      by Nagy Daniel
                      Hi, I'm Daniel, and I'm new to the world of repairing motherboards.

                      I would like to create a table, or more likely a guideline about the voltage rails and their possible resistance rail.

                      I know that the motherboard design has a very big depend on the rail's resistance, but I would like to know what is the smallest value for a rail that can be acceptable. For example, I heard that some new gaming motherboards can have 0,5 Ohm resistance on the GPU rail, but on an older type, it could be a sign of a shorted GPU rail.

                      So, I generated a table with AI so I can...
                      03-04-2025, 08:24 AM
                    • Victor Moreira Silva
                      Acer Nitro 5 LA-L181p power LED turns on by 5 secs (Short on PCH rail?)
                      by Victor Moreira Silva
                      Hello everyone,

                      I'm trying to repair my old Acer Nitro 5 (AN517-54-55T5). I've already bought a new laptop, so this is more of a learning project. For the experience, with no high expectations of success.

                      Well, my decice specs are the following:

                      Model: Acer Nitro 5 AN517-54-55T5
                      CPU: Intel Core i5-11400H
                      GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650
                      Motherboard: GH51G LA-L181P Rev:1c

                      The symptom:
                      When pressing the power button, the power LED lights up for about 5 seconds and then turns off. Initially, the issue was intermittent: sometimes...
                      05-26-2025, 10:49 AM
                    • lefetylorant
                      Lenovo Thinkcentre tiny M90Q gen 1 - no 12V rail
                      by lefetylorant
                      Hello Everyone,

                      Long story short, I got this unit for very cheap.
                      I've started to experiment with it's BIOS, as I did before successfully with an M900. However my very bad quality SOIC clip broken while dumping of the biosof and it must have damaged something on the panel, because it does not turn on, and does exactly nothing when powered. The maximum voltage that could have affected something is the 3.3 or 5v from the IC clip, because the unit was not powered while the bios dumping was in progress.

                      I've performed some measurements:
                      - 20V rail perfectly...
                      09-14-2023, 05:05 AM
                    • momaka
                      HannStar Hanns-G HC194d LCD monitor repair
                      by momaka
                      Normally, I never post repairs this quick after I do them, because… I am usually very slow. But today, I’m making an exception here. Why? No idea. Perhaps only because the repair details are still “fresh” in my head… which is ironic, given this is a 16 year old monitor that hardly anyone will care about today. It is new to me, though. I picked it up last November from someone on my local Craigslist. It wasn’t very close to where I live, but was close to a family friend that I had to go visit anyways. So after watching the posting on Craigslist for a few weeks and seeing it getting...
                      03-15-2023, 10:17 PM
                    • joshAU
                      Acer AN515-55-528T FH52M LA-J891P - Short ciruit after PQW1 MOSFET on +1.35VSDGPU rail.
                      by joshAU
                      Hi all.
                      This notebook was showing no signs of life.

                      I removed the FH52M LA-J891P mainboard and found that there was 19V at the DC jack.
                      However there was zero volts on the two PRB2 and PRB46 resistors immediately after the two polarity protection MOSFETs (PQB11 & PQB12).

                      If I remove the PQW1 MOSFET, the 19V rail starts working, and I can turn on the unit - at least I get the fans, and the power light comes on, when I simulate the power button being pressed. No display.

                      I tried replacing the MOSFET with a new one, but again no voltage on the...
                      05-29-2024, 12:33 AM
                    • Loading...
                    • No more items.
                    Working...