Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W
The diode D304 and FET (?) Q302 are both shorted.
Also the little diode D303 sitting on the board is shorted as well.
PC P&C Silencer 420W
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Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W
I'm betting the PFC FET, since it would be inline with the PFC coil and would cause it to overheat in a failure, thus the burn mark (assuming a buck-boost configuration).Last edited by Trinite; 01-19-2011, 10:38 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W
You have to desolder them (not necessarily remove them) to test correctly. One could be bad and the rest are reading that short.Leave a comment:
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Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W
Light dimming is not a good sign. I'm betting on the PFC or switcher FETs.
The low ohms on the mains cap -probably- means something nearby is toasted.Leave a comment:
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Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W
Caps can (and do) vent out the bung without deforming the top, nor blowing the bung out. Also have been know to have pinholes in the can under the plastic wrap.
Check all components from fuse to mains cap and switchers. VISUALLY inspect all the MOSFETS and dual Schottky's for hairline cracks. Get the plastic away from that coil and inspect the coil for burns. Sometimes it's just the glue that has darkened from heat. Be sure to remove and replace all that kind of glue everywhere with silicone caulk. The glue can become conductive when it gets hot and darkens.
Check that F.U. mains cap, especially for open. Should charge up one way on the ohms scale, and read infinite on reverse polarity. If it opens, it will take out the PFC or switcher FETs.
The fuse is a fast acting 7 amp "pigtail" type. Replace the fuse, or temporarily jumper it with a strand or 2 from a piece of stranded wire. Use a table lamp (100 watt) inline with the Line (L) side of the mains. Test leads with alligator clips are useful.
( See: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=23 )
When you plug the PSU in, the lamp should pulse once or twice and go dark. If it stays illuminated, the input side is shorted and you'll need to find what component(s) is at fault.
If it flashes and goes dark, then try jumpering the PSU on by jumpering Green to Black on the mobo plug. Again, it may pulse and go dark. If it stays on, then the output side is shorted some where.
Report findings please.
ToastLeave a comment:
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Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W
LOL!
Yeah, my bad. It's a Hitachi. It just made sense to see a FU in with OST's....
The really odd bit is the HP series. It's the same series as Capxon that has failed in the Apple Samsung PSU's at over 90%
ToastLeave a comment:
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Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W
>>making a sound like someone opening a beverage can and shutting off.<<
Was it a hiss-pop sound, or just a hiss?
Caps can (and do) vent out the bung without deforming the top, nor blowing the bung out. Also have been know to have pinholes in the can under the plastic wrap.
Check all components from fuse to mains cap and switchers. VISUALLY inspect all the MOSFETS and dual Schottky's for hairline cracks. Get the plastic away from that coil and inspect the coil for burns. Sometimes it's just the glue that has darkened from heat. Be sure to remove and replace all that kind of glue everywhere with silicone caulk. The glue can become conductive when it gets hot and darkens.
Check that F.U. mains cap, especially for open. Should charge up one way on the ohms scale, and read infinite on reverse polarity. If it opens, it will take out the PFC or switcher FETs.
The fuse is a fast acting 7 amp "pigtail" type. Replace the fuse, or temporarily jumper it with a strand or 2 from a piece of stranded wire. Use a table lamp (100 watt) inline with the Line (L) side of the mains. Test leads with alligator clips are useful.
( See: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=23 )
When you plug the PSU in, the lamp should pulse once or twice and go dark. If it stays illuminated, the input side is shorted and you'll need to find what component(s) is at fault.
If it flashes and goes dark, then try jumpering the PSU on by jumpering Green to Black on the mobo plug. Again, it may pulse and go dark. If it stays on, then the output side is shorted some where.
Report findings please.
ToastLast edited by Toasty; 01-19-2011, 03:51 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W
OST Caps! I expected better from PC P&C, although probably not the cause of the problem
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Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W
I should clarify; the supply is 2 or 3 years old at this point. It just so happened it failed 20 minutes after I finished recapping the board of the machine it was in.Leave a comment:
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PC P&C Silencer 420W
This little bastard ran my newly recapped Biostar P4M900 for all of 20 minutes before making a sound like someone opening a beverage can and shutting off.
I opened it up, checked it out, no obvious burning, no open caps.
The fuse is open, so something definitely shorted, though I dont know how or what to test for.
That burned glue on the PFC coil is the only burnt spot Ive found on the entire apparatus. How likely is it that killed it?
http://colt45.ws/misc/silencer3.jpg
http://colt45.ws/misc/silencer4.jpgTags: None
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