PC P&C Silencer 420W

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Colt45ws
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    Originally posted by Toasty
    You have to desolder them (not necessarily remove them) to test correctly. One could be bad and the rest are reading that short.
    The diode D304 and FET (?) Q302 are both shorted.
    Also the little diode D303 sitting on the board is shorted as well.
    Last edited by Colt45ws; 01-20-2011, 12:20 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Trinite
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    Originally posted by Toasty
    Light dimming is not a good sign. I'm betting on the PFC or switcher FETs.

    The low ohms on the mains cap -probably- means something nearby is toasted.
    I'm betting the PFC FET, since it would be inline with the PFC coil and would cause it to overheat in a failure, thus the burn mark (assuming a buck-boost configuration).
    Last edited by Trinite; 01-19-2011, 10:38 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Toasty
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    You have to desolder them (not necessarily remove them) to test correctly. One could be bad and the rest are reading that short.

    Leave a comment:


  • Colt45ws
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    D304 which is closest to the mains cap shows shorted. Q302 which is the next on over shows short on all three pins and Q301 is shorted on two pins.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Toasty
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    Light dimming is not a good sign. I'm betting on the PFC or switcher FETs.

    The low ohms on the mains cap -probably- means something nearby is toasted.

    Leave a comment:


  • Colt45ws
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    Originally posted by Toasty
    >>making a sound like someone opening a beverage can and shutting off.<<

    Was it a hiss-pop sound, or just a hiss?
    I wanna say hiss-pop along with the lights dimming at the same time.

    Originally posted by Toasty
    Caps can (and do) vent out the bung without deforming the top, nor blowing the bung out. Also have been know to have pinholes in the can under the plastic wrap.

    Check all components from fuse to mains cap and switchers. VISUALLY inspect all the MOSFETS and dual Schottky's for hairline cracks. Get the plastic away from that coil and inspect the coil for burns. Sometimes it's just the glue that has darkened from heat. Be sure to remove and replace all that kind of glue everywhere with silicone caulk. The glue can become conductive when it gets hot and darkens.

    Check that F.U. mains cap, especially for open. Should charge up one way on the ohms scale, and read infinite on reverse polarity. If it opens, it will take out the PFC or switcher FETs.

    The fuse is a fast acting 7 amp "pigtail" type. Replace the fuse, or temporarily jumper it with a strand or 2 from a piece of stranded wire. Use a table lamp (100 watt) inline with the Line (L) side of the mains. Test leads with alligator clips are useful.
    ( See: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=23 )

    When you plug the PSU in, the lamp should pulse once or twice and go dark. If it stays illuminated, the input side is shorted and you'll need to find what component(s) is at fault.

    If it flashes and goes dark, then try jumpering the PSU on by jumpering Green to Black on the mobo plug. Again, it may pulse and go dark. If it stays on, then the output side is shorted some where.

    Report findings please.

    Toast
    Im on lunch so I just really quickly checked the mains cap. I have 5.5ohms both ways, does not change. Does that mean the short is on the input side? I feel silly for not checking earlier. Ill do some more after I get home from work.

    Leave a comment:


  • Toasty
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    LOL!

    Yeah, my bad. It's a Hitachi. It just made sense to see a FU in with OST's....

    The really odd bit is the HP series. It's the same series as Capxon that has failed in the Apple Samsung PSU's at over 90%

    Toast

    Leave a comment:


  • 370forlife
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    Originally posted by Toasty
    Check that Hitachi mains cap, especially for open. Should charge up one way on the ohms scale, and read infinite on reverse polarity. If it opens, it will take out the PFC or switcher FETs.
    Knew Fuhjyuu was good at copying Hitachi's logo.

    Leave a comment:


  • Toasty
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    >>making a sound like someone opening a beverage can and shutting off.<<

    Was it a hiss-pop sound, or just a hiss?

    Caps can (and do) vent out the bung without deforming the top, nor blowing the bung out. Also have been know to have pinholes in the can under the plastic wrap.

    Check all components from fuse to mains cap and switchers. VISUALLY inspect all the MOSFETS and dual Schottky's for hairline cracks. Get the plastic away from that coil and inspect the coil for burns. Sometimes it's just the glue that has darkened from heat. Be sure to remove and replace all that kind of glue everywhere with silicone caulk. The glue can become conductive when it gets hot and darkens.

    Check that F.U. mains cap, especially for open. Should charge up one way on the ohms scale, and read infinite on reverse polarity. If it opens, it will take out the PFC or switcher FETs.

    The fuse is a fast acting 7 amp "pigtail" type. Replace the fuse, or temporarily jumper it with a strand or 2 from a piece of stranded wire. Use a table lamp (100 watt) inline with the Line (L) side of the mains. Test leads with alligator clips are useful.
    ( See: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=23 )

    When you plug the PSU in, the lamp should pulse once or twice and go dark. If it stays illuminated, the input side is shorted and you'll need to find what component(s) is at fault.

    If it flashes and goes dark, then try jumpering the PSU on by jumpering Green to Black on the mobo plug. Again, it may pulse and go dark. If it stays on, then the output side is shorted some where.

    Report findings please.

    Toast
    Last edited by Toasty; 01-19-2011, 03:51 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • c_hegge
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    OST Caps! I expected better from PC P&C, although probably not the cause of the problem

    Leave a comment:


  • Colt45ws
    replied
    Re: PC P&C Silencer 420W

    I should clarify; the supply is 2 or 3 years old at this point. It just so happened it failed 20 minutes after I finished recapping the board of the machine it was in.

    Leave a comment:


  • Colt45ws
    started a topic PC P&C Silencer 420W

    PC P&C Silencer 420W


    This little bastard ran my newly recapped Biostar P4M900 for all of 20 minutes before making a sound like someone opening a beverage can and shutting off.
    I opened it up, checked it out, no obvious burning, no open caps.
    The fuse is open, so something definitely shorted, though I dont know how or what to test for.

    That burned glue on the PFC coil is the only burnt spot Ive found on the entire apparatus. How likely is it that killed it?
    http://colt45.ws/misc/silencer3.jpg
    http://colt45.ws/misc/silencer4.jpg

Related Topics

Collapse

Working...