there is a solution , quiet simple , remove the component because it will not be easy to find REAL 2808 i ordered from many places and major part sucked totally , so there is a nice solution for it ,
you will need 2 diode 1N4148 or similar i usually use does glass ones and a pair of bypass shunts.
so diodes will be easy , solder wires on both edges , and the part of the CATHODE (the | trace side ) will be pointed to pin 8 ( so both cathodes will solder to pin 8 the outher side of the diode you will solder one on pin 1 and the outher diode on pin 2 , NOW the important part :
once you got diodes soldered ,chek pin 3 it must be never higher that 3.3 v also chek pin 6 if there is no 3.3 volts (then SIO is dead and need replacement) if pin 6 have 3.3 volts , make a bypass shunt between pin 3 and 6 , and try turn on the machine , usually it turn on and works perfectly
let us know , its something that take around 2 min to do it and saved tons of clevos and outher kind of machines like this
there is a solution , quiet simple , remove the component because it will not be easy to find REAL 2808 i ordered from many places and major part sucked totally , so there is a nice solution for it ,
you will need 2 diode 1N4148 or similar i usually use does glass ones and a pair of bypass shunts.
so diodes will be easy , solder wires on both edges , and the part of the CATHODE (the | trace side ) will be pointed to pin 8 ( so both cathodes will solder to pin 8 the outher side of the diode you will solder one on pin 1 and the outher diode on pin 2 , NOW the important part :
once you got diodes soldered ,chek pin 3 it must be never higher that 3.3 v also chek pin 6 if there is no 3.3 volts (then SIO is dead and need replacement) if pin 6 have 3.3 volts , make a bypass shunt between pin 3 and 6 , and try turn on the machine , usually it turn on and works perfectly
let us know , its something that take around 2 min to do it and saved tons of clevos and outher kind of machines like this
there is a solution , quiet simple , remove the component because it will not be easy to find REAL 2808 i ordered from many places and major part sucked totally , so there is a nice solution for it ,
you will need 2 diode 1N4148 or similar i usually use does glass ones and a pair of bypass shunts.
so diodes will be easy , solder wires on both edges , and the part of the CATHODE (the | trace side ) will be pointed to pin 8 ( so both cathodes will solder to pin 8 the outher side of the diode you will solder one on pin 1 and the outher diode on pin 2 , NOW the important part :
once you got diodes soldered ,chek pin 3 it must be never higher that 3.3 v also chek pin 6 if there is no 3.3 volts (then SIO is dead and need replacement) if pin 6 have 3.3 volts , make a bypass shunt between pin 3 and 6 , and try turn on the machine , usually it turn on and works perfectly
let us know , its something that take around 2 min to do it and saved tons of clevos and outher kind of machines like this
I found following information for this chip. I think this may help.
After a bad storm it died. PU6 (2808) was fried, along with a few resistors on the LAN connector.
Also found intersting video about the 2808 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dLilTxLVCo
Hello everyone! i got a clevo W650SB in my hands that had a blown P2808b0 ic, although it was starting properly if you removed the cmos bat and plug the charger to turn on. the power button did not work from the beginning and it did not have 3.3v on.
so i did the trick with highpulse's steps (which by the way exactly the same saved me a couple of times in the past, thank you for that!!) and the power button immediately got 3.3v but does not power on again with the button (button is working, checked with multimeter). is there a chance the Super IO is faulty even if it gives 3.3v to the power button? p.s. laptop still works if unplug cmos and plug charger, it turns on by itself
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