Hello everyone,
I've recently acquired a 13 inch MacBook Pro 13 2017 (A1708, 820-00840-A). I bought it with the intention of trying to fix it and learn a thing or two about electronics repair along the way. So I've never repaired or even had another MacBook or Apple product before actually. However, I do have some experience with designing and producing my own PCB's so I do have some equipment like hot air station, oscilloscope, microscope, hot plate, etc at home. Today I received my USB ammeter and got to work.
The USB ammeter first showed 5V and after a few seconds it was up to 20V, so if I understand correctly that means that both of the CD3215 IC's are doing great. But of course I bought the thing as defective and that showed... When it reached 20V I noticed it got stuck at 0.045A. Weirdly enough it got stuck at exactly 0.04500A. Sometimes it would briefly go a few decimals off but then quickly go back to exactly 0.04500A.
The seller mentioned that the device broke after trying to upgrade the replaceable SSD.
When measuring with the USB ammeter I had already removed the logic board from the case so I moved on to measuring some voltages with a multimeter.
I wonder if anyone has some tips for me on how to continue and what to measure next. I know someone who has a FLIR camera which I could borrow if necessary to better visualize voltage injection.
Thanks in advance
I've recently acquired a 13 inch MacBook Pro 13 2017 (A1708, 820-00840-A). I bought it with the intention of trying to fix it and learn a thing or two about electronics repair along the way. So I've never repaired or even had another MacBook or Apple product before actually. However, I do have some experience with designing and producing my own PCB's so I do have some equipment like hot air station, oscilloscope, microscope, hot plate, etc at home. Today I received my USB ammeter and got to work.
The USB ammeter first showed 5V and after a few seconds it was up to 20V, so if I understand correctly that means that both of the CD3215 IC's are doing great. But of course I bought the thing as defective and that showed... When it reached 20V I noticed it got stuck at 0.045A. Weirdly enough it got stuck at exactly 0.04500A. Sometimes it would briefly go a few decimals off but then quickly go back to exactly 0.04500A.
The seller mentioned that the device broke after trying to upgrade the replaceable SSD.
When measuring with the USB ammeter I had already removed the logic board from the case so I moved on to measuring some voltages with a multimeter.
PPBUS_G3H | 12.96V |
PP3V3_S5 | 0V |
PP5V_S4 | 0V |
PP3V3_G3H | 3.38V |
PP5V_S5 | 0V |
PP1V8_S5G | 0V |
PPBUS_G3H_CPU | 12.96V |
PPBUS_G3H_SSD | 12.96V |
P3V3S5_EN | 0V |
P5VS4_EN | 0V |
P1VOPC_EN | 0V |
I wonder if anyone has some tips for me on how to continue and what to measure next. I know someone who has a FLIR camera which I could borrow if necessary to better visualize voltage injection.
Thanks in advance

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